sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

Got a problem with my 2003 WRX. I can be driving along changing gears and reaching the normal psi of 14, and then it wont go above 7 psi for the rest of my drive. I then quickly disconnect the battery and reconnect it and its back up to 14 psi again, any ideas folks?

Cheers

Sparky

Scooby_CL

iTrader: (2)

sounds like it could be mildly over boosting and putting the ecu into safe mode there for limiting the boost and timing etc

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

How do I sort that out then?

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

There must be a way to fix this?

Black Widow

iTrader: (2)

Where in the country are you.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

I'm in Hertfordshire in the UK, couldnt figure out how to put that on my profile.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

What is standard boost supposed to be?

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

std boost is 14psi.

Sounds like it is detting and going into limp mode. What fuel are you running it on ?

If you have decated it or fitted an induction i would def say it needs a proper remap to make safe. A full proper remap would sort and give increase in performance too.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

The mods that I have done are very very minor, I've got a friend with a 2001 bugeye, he has full decat inc downpipe, HKS panel filter and he has no problems. I know that the small mods I have done arent causing this and I do intend to re-map the car, but would like to do this properly and sort this problem out first.
I know its an electrical fault and a re-map may not solve this, what if its a dry joint in the ecu or something like that?

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

I havent fitted full induction, its just a panel filter.

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

engine management is in limp when it goes to 7psi (this is actuator pressure i think)
Does an engine light come up??

Sleazy Badger

So how do you 'know it's an electrical fault'? Sounds to me like it's working as intended. The ECU has detected a problem and put your car in safe mode. Get it checked out by a professional.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Not seen a dry joint in an std oe ecu yet.

I am sure it isnt an electrical problem.

Every subaru is different and they all react differently to unmapped modifications. Some are fine and survive for a while, some blow up and some act to prevent damage (which is what yours is doing). Be thankful that the ecu is stopping damage to the engine by doing what the subaru engineers spent ages developing. The 2001 wrx doesnt tend to overboost or object as much as your 2003 wrx.

What mods have you done?

The gitS

Why is that, are they not basically the same car? sensors, injectors, turbo etc

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

different ecu

Dunno if that is the reason but they definitely react very differently.

The gitS

fairone

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

+1 dude. Deffo get it checked out.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

walbro 255, panel filter, 1 decat, prodrive backbox

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

no CEL lights, had it read twice and no codes being thrown up, the revs arent being limited either, just the boost.

ZEN Performance

99% certain it will need a MAF sensor. You still haven't mentioned what fuel you're using.

In the meantime DON'T THRASH IT or it might go from needing a £250 MAF sensor to needing a £2500 engine repair.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

I always put super unleaded or better in it. I changed the AFM over with my friends identical one, no change, also changed the re-circ dv and the boost control solenoid.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

Are there any REALLY good Scooby specialists in Herdfordshire or Essex, who will be able to diagnose this? Simply plugging it in isnt going to tell them anything as i've had this done twice and no fault codes were thrown up.

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

Mocom racing in Harlow.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

huh, Harlow is like 6 miles from me, so they know their stuff there do they?

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

Definately, lots of people on here use him.
He's a difficult chap to get hold of though.
Google mocom racing and leave him a voice message and he will get back to you.

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

I'll leave a message for him. What i'm deffo not gonna do is change a load of things one by one hoping each time it will fix it because that will cost me a fortune, ie:- "its 99.9% the MAF" I've already done a swap over with that on my mates car and the problem was still there, so buying a new one of those would of cost me £250 and the car would still be the same as before with the same issue.

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

I'm a BMW tech mate, and i'd rather take a job on with the car having all it's original bits on when the fault started. Rather than a 50/50 mix of parts that i don't know the integrity of!

So in short... i totally agree!

sparkysx

iTrader: (2)

it has got all the original bits on, we swapped over parts from my mates car to try to eliminate the problem, but all the swapped over parts went back onto my mates car in the end, so its still got the same parts on it that it had when the problem arose.

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

If thats the case, get the car down to MOCOM, and let them drive/investigate it buddy.

Black Widow

iTrader: (2)

It's worth getting Duncan (dynamics) to come and have a look for what its going to cost, he knows everything there is to know and hes not a million miles from you either.