Help !!! Killed the Scoob !
05 October 2009, 09:41 PM
#211
When you lap the valves in the old fashion way with grinding paste and a child's toy arrow 
LOL, how do you know at what point the valve seats are perfectly profiled to their ports, and therefore when to stop grinding? I've always wondered this...?
LOL, how do you know at what point the valve seats are perfectly profiled to their ports, and therefore when to stop grinding? I've always wondered this...?
Last edited by joz8968; 05 October 2009 at 09:45 PM.
06 October 2009, 09:53 AM
#212
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The job has currently come to a 'grinding' halt (pardon the pun)
I had a go at one of the valves with grinding paste and the old fashioned 'rubber sucker on a stick'
B*ll*cks to that !
Sixteen of the bl**dy things to do !
Awaiting delivery of a flexible drive for the drill, plan is to clamp the valve stem in the chuck and 'spin' the valves to seat them.
I also started looking at all the casting marks and thinking.............................
Hmmmmmmmmmmm ?
Could I have a go at a light port and polish ?
I had a go at one of the valves with grinding paste and the old fashioned 'rubber sucker on a stick'
B*ll*cks to that !
Sixteen of the bl**dy things to do !
Awaiting delivery of a flexible drive for the drill, plan is to clamp the valve stem in the chuck and 'spin' the valves to seat them.
I also started looking at all the casting marks and thinking.............................
Hmmmmmmmmmmm ?
Could I have a go at a light port and polish ?
Get an engine reconditioner to recut the valve seats and the corresponding ones in the heads, then lapping the valves in is 2 mins per valve. DO NOT try to do it mechanically it has been tried before, by more skilful people than you and it doesn't work...
Then you will have to reshim the valve clearances without any spare shims to work with. The shimmed clearance changes once the heads are bolted on and will change again when the cams are fitted. Did you think to keep the shims and valves marked and numbered as to where they came from ??
Port and polish is not your best idea either. Change the flow characteristics of one pair of intake ports by comparison to the others and it'll run like a bag of poo.
Recognise when you are out of your depth.
David APi
06 October 2009, 10:04 PM
#213
I kept everything numbered when I stripped the heads.
The plan was just to use fine paste and a gentle touch just to remove carbon deposits from the valves and seats.
Doing it by hand seemed to make little or no impression, hence the idea to use a variable speed cordless drill ?
I realise that any major changes would upset the valve clearances, I was tempted just to reassemble because everything seemed fairly clean and tight fitting.
The 'port and polish' was maybe an overstatement, just remove a few casting marks / rough edges, etc.
I'm not attempting to become an engine builder overnight, just thought I might have a bit of a play with the standard heads whilst they are in bits.
The plan was just to use fine paste and a gentle touch just to remove carbon deposits from the valves and seats.
Doing it by hand seemed to make little or no impression, hence the idea to use a variable speed cordless drill ?
I realise that any major changes would upset the valve clearances, I was tempted just to reassemble because everything seemed fairly clean and tight fitting.
The 'port and polish' was maybe an overstatement, just remove a few casting marks / rough edges, etc.
I'm not attempting to become an engine builder overnight, just thought I might have a bit of a play with the standard heads whilst they are in bits.
08 October 2009, 09:56 PM
#214
Finally got my refund via Paypal !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Full cost of the engine and the original carriage charge, I had to stand the £64 to send the faulty engine back though !
Now I need to consider whether to try and recover my other expenses (£800 fitting cost, time I had to take off work to remove the faulty engine, etc)
Wondering whether to bother fitting the other used bottom end I purchased or just bite the bullet and buy a new forged bottom end (maybe even complete engine ?)
As I am likely to be doing the fitting myself to keep costs down, I don't know if I have the time and / or the inclination to do it twice !
Full cost of the engine and the original carriage charge, I had to stand the £64 to send the faulty engine back though !
Now I need to consider whether to try and recover my other expenses (£800 fitting cost, time I had to take off work to remove the faulty engine, etc)
Wondering whether to bother fitting the other used bottom end I purchased or just bite the bullet and buy a new forged bottom end (maybe even complete engine ?)
As I am likely to be doing the fitting myself to keep costs down, I don't know if I have the time and / or the inclination to do it twice !
15 October 2009, 09:56 PM
#216
Fitted the RH head to the used short motor today, all going fine until the front two camshaft cap bolts snapped !
I was using a torque wrench set to 14.5 lb/ft (as per my Subaru manual)
Wrench 'clicked' on bolt number one so moved onto number two, tightened until it 'clicked' and then discovered that both bolts had snapped the threaded section in the head !
Oh Joyous Day !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now to find some kind of extractor to get the broken ones out..............................
I was using a torque wrench set to 14.5 lb/ft (as per my Subaru manual)
Wrench 'clicked' on bolt number one so moved onto number two, tightened until it 'clicked' and then discovered that both bolts had snapped the threaded section in the head !
Oh Joyous Day !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now to find some kind of extractor to get the broken ones out..............................
16 October 2009, 10:00 PM
#220
Doh !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I should know better than to start work on my engine after a tough day at the asylum !
Any ideas on how to extract the broken bolts ?
I guess carefully drill a centre hole and use a reverse threaded bolt extractor ?
I should know better than to start work on my engine after a tough day at the asylum !
Any ideas on how to extract the broken bolts ?
I guess carefully drill a centre hole and use a reverse threaded bolt extractor ?
At least that would explain it though.
18 October 2009, 08:33 PM
#224
Not yet, I am waiting for a set of 'easy out' bolt extractors to arrive.
On a course all day tomorrow, might get a chance on Wednesday ?
I can start work on the other head though, still got to clean the carbon off the valves and seats before assembly.
Memo to self: 7 lb/ft,7 lb/ft................................................ ..
On a course all day tomorrow, might get a chance on Wednesday ?
I can start work on the other head though, still got to clean the carbon off the valves and seats before assembly.
Memo to self: 7 lb/ft,7 lb/ft................................................ ..
27 October 2009, 11:15 PM
#225
Finally got time to sort the broken bolts on Sunday, first one out in five minutes !
Unfortunately I made a pigs ear out of drilling the centre hole in the second one, three hours later I gave up and drilled it out completely.
Just re-threaded it today and found a suitable bolt, had another look at the manual and it does show all six bolts at 14.5 lb/ft !
I decided to go with 7 lb/ft on the front two but even that is nerve wracking !
Really getting p**sed off with this now, can't seem to get time to work on it due to lack of staff at work.
I am off this coming weekend so might try to blitz it !
Unfortunately I made a pigs ear out of drilling the centre hole in the second one, three hours later I gave up and drilled it out completely.
Just re-threaded it today and found a suitable bolt, had another look at the manual and it does show all six bolts at 14.5 lb/ft !
I decided to go with 7 lb/ft on the front two but even that is nerve wracking !
Really getting p**sed off with this now, can't seem to get time to work on it due to lack of staff at work.
I am off this coming weekend so might try to blitz it !
27 October 2009, 11:41 PM
#226
The early hydraulic heads (Vers 1~2) had the little M6 bolts for the cam caps too and the buggers quite often sheared off 
Subaru had the sense to change the cam cap bolts to M8 on the Vers 3 onwards but kept the seal carrier cap bolts at M6 (and 7 Lb-ft torque)
so must be a misprint in your manual.
No consolation to you though but you wont be the first one to shear them off
Hope all goes well with the rest of it.
Mick
Subaru had the sense to change the cam cap bolts to M8 on the Vers 3 onwards but kept the seal carrier cap bolts at M6 (and 7 Lb-ft torque)
so must be a misprint in your manual.
No consolation to you though but you wont be the first one to shear them off
Hope all goes well with the rest of it.
Mick
31 October 2009, 10:31 PM
#227
Both heads now fitted, the manual has two different settings for the cam cap bolts !
The 'exploded' diagram shows torque setting of 7 lb/ft for all 6 bolts, instructions say 14.5 for all six !
Just followed advice on here and did the front 2 at 7 and 14.5 for the others.
Hope to start bolting more bits on tomorrow !
The 'exploded' diagram shows torque setting of 7 lb/ft for all 6 bolts, instructions say 14.5 for all six !
Just followed advice on here and did the front 2 at 7 and 14.5 for the others.
Hope to start bolting more bits on tomorrow !
07 November 2009, 12:20 AM
#230
Starting to look more like an engine now !
Fitted the cam pulleys and inlet manifold.
I was going to fit the timing belt that was fitted two weeks before the engine failed.
On inspection, it must have been rubbing against one of the guides, has a groove worn into the back of it !
I bet you can guess who fitted it !
That's right !
The same people that smashed the camshaft pulleys and snapped one of the cams !
And charged me £800 for the privilege !
I now need to source a new cambelt, I suppose in the meantime I can be swapping the rubber hoses on the manifold for the silicone ones I purchased.
Fitted the cam pulleys and inlet manifold.
I was going to fit the timing belt that was fitted two weeks before the engine failed.
On inspection, it must have been rubbing against one of the guides, has a groove worn into the back of it !
I bet you can guess who fitted it !
That's right !
The same people that smashed the camshaft pulleys and snapped one of the cams !
And charged me £800 for the privilege !
I now need to source a new cambelt, I suppose in the meantime I can be swapping the rubber hoses on the manifold for the silicone ones I purchased.
07 November 2009, 02:41 AM
#231
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To possibly save you a bit (more) grief in advance, what do you mean by a "suitable bolt"?
Stop me if you've already twigged this but the standard bolts have a very precise shank diameter and length. As well as clamping the caps down they act like dowels to precisely align them to the head (and therefore align the two halves of the bearing "shell".
You can't simply replace them with any old M6 bolt of the correct length. If you do, it's all too easy to misalign the cap by a couple of thou when you reassemble it, which will compromise the bearing, and the consequences of that won't be good down the line.
Ideally need either the proper Subaru bolts, or get some machined up with the right shank on them.
Stop me if you've already twigged this but the standard bolts have a very precise shank diameter and length. As well as clamping the caps down they act like dowels to precisely align them to the head (and therefore align the two halves of the bearing "shell".
You can't simply replace them with any old M6 bolt of the correct length. If you do, it's all too easy to misalign the cap by a couple of thou when you reassemble it, which will compromise the bearing, and the consequences of that won't be good down the line.
Ideally need either the proper Subaru bolts, or get some machined up with the right shank on them.
07 November 2009, 11:29 PM
#232
In my case a suitable bolt was anything I happened to have knocking about !
I drilled through the hole in the seal carrier cap and straight through the head casting with a bit the same diameter as the bolt, then threaded the hole in the casting (but not the hole through the cap)
This leaves me with a bolt that simply slides through the cap but screws into the casting (if you follow my drift ?)
I appreciate that a good fit is important, I have compared my efforts to the standard set up and can't measure any noticable difference.
I drilled through the hole in the seal carrier cap and straight through the head casting with a bit the same diameter as the bolt, then threaded the hole in the casting (but not the hole through the cap)
This leaves me with a bolt that simply slides through the cap but screws into the casting (if you follow my drift ?)
I appreciate that a good fit is important, I have compared my efforts to the standard set up and can't measure any noticable difference.
12 November 2009, 09:47 PM
#233
Cam belt arrived and fitted, headers and turbo fitted today but not that happy with how the turbo inlet pipe is meeting up with the turbo.
It's a VF35 so doesn't seem to sit 'exactly' where the TD04 did, I don't think my 'ebay special' silicone inlet pipe helps either !
I am paranoid so will probably have another go on Saturday when I have a full day to mess about with it.
It's a VF35 so doesn't seem to sit 'exactly' where the TD04 did, I don't think my 'ebay special' silicone inlet pipe helps either !
I am paranoid so will probably have another go on Saturday when I have a full day to mess about with it.
14 November 2009, 07:22 PM
#235
Spent most of today working on it, happier with the inlet pipe now.
Fitted the alternator and air con pump as well, looks like it's ready to go back in to me !
All the bits I have left go on once the engine is in the car, downpipe, gearbox bolts, starter motor, air box and battery.
Never thought I would ever get to this stage, just got to recruit a willing volunteer to help me with the engine hoist !
Fitted the alternator and air con pump as well, looks like it's ready to go back in to me !
All the bits I have left go on once the engine is in the car, downpipe, gearbox bolts, starter motor, air box and battery.
Never thought I would ever get to this stage, just got to recruit a willing volunteer to help me with the engine hoist !
21 November 2009, 06:30 PM
#240
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Wow!! Mate you have saved me a whole load of hassle, gta a blown bottom end on my scooby n learned so much just by reading ur thread, sorry mate but mostly what not to do. I was so excited as i got to the last page expecting to see at the end "car better than ever, got all my money back and the cowboys round the corner shut down" but god dam like all good stories (with good endings) it is to be continued. Got alot of respect for u mate. Good luck with finishing the job.