08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
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True, but that is to the left of the chasis rail and directly where the impact occurred. To be fair? I am guessing how far the damage has gone but it doesn't look to be that far back in the area inside the chassis legs.
I'm not sure what hit the intake pipe though! I had assumed the headlamp squashed up against it, but you never know.
With the bonnet down, I cant see how anything other than the exhaust manifold or radiators could have reached the engine.
I was in two minds about whether to have the engine taken out and inspected. Will ask the body shop what they think.
I'm not sure what hit the intake pipe though! I had assumed the headlamp squashed up against it, but you never know.
With the bonnet down, I cant see how anything other than the exhaust manifold or radiators could have reached the engine.
I was in two minds about whether to have the engine taken out and inspected. Will ask the body shop what they think.
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It really does not take much of a hit to bend the front of the cam, just get your mechanic, when the belts off to check the run out & end float on that cam.
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The dealers have to request it from Cosworth - its worth dropping Cosworth an email directly - they where more than helpful when i was looking information on the exhaust & suspension which i retrofitted to my 330s
The only thing is Cosworth had a massive clearout of subaru CS400 parts recently - they where all auctioned off, so you may find it hard to get replacement bespoke parts
The only thing is Cosworth had a massive clearout of subaru CS400 parts recently - they where all auctioned off, so you may find it hard to get replacement bespoke parts
Last edited by Imy877; 20 June 2019 at 05:59 PM.
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Up-pipe will be different also. not sure about the headers ( the bit under the engine in your pic covered in rhino skin) if you remove the rhino skin you be able to see if std sti headers or not but I suspect they wont be std otherwise theyd have used the std subaru heat shields.
That rhino skin is probably reusable also, unless its badly torn which isn't visible in the pics?
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I miss the stereo steering wheel controls my Abarth has and often catch myself pressing the steering wheel to adjust the volume or change songs lol.
Can one retrofit steering wheel controls in a JDM car? The stereo (double DIN Pioneer) supports it.
Last edited by fpan; 21 June 2019 at 03:33 PM.
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Thanks Don! I was initially thinking about the plastic/rubbery black one but the transparent one is much more discreet.
I miss the stereo steering wheel controls my Abarth has and often catch myself pressing the steering wheel to adjust the volume or change songs lol.
Can one retrofit steering wheel controls in a JDM car? The stereo (double DIN Pioneer) supports it.
I miss the stereo steering wheel controls my Abarth has and often catch myself pressing the steering wheel to adjust the volume or change songs lol.
Can one retrofit steering wheel controls in a JDM car? The stereo (double DIN Pioneer) supports it.
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Anyone know where I can get a pair of oem side light bulb holders, or better still, the plug in section of the wiring loom from the main loom to the lights.
No matter the state of cars for breaking, no-one wants to part with that section of wiring loom. It's for a 2010 STI.
Thanks
No matter the state of cars for breaking, no-one wants to part with that section of wiring loom. It's for a 2010 STI.
Thanks
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Anyone know where I can get a pair of oem side light bulb holders, or better still, the plug in section of the wiring loom from the main loom to the lights.
No matter the state of cars for breaking, no-one wants to part with that section of wiring loom. It's for a 2010 STI.
Thanks
No matter the state of cars for breaking, no-one wants to part with that section of wiring loom. It's for a 2010 STI.
Thanks
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[QUOTE=Don Clark;12055445]Not surprising as it's part of the headlight assembly but can be purchased separately
that's it, cheers. Now to see if can find some.
that's it, cheers. Now to see if can find some.
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No it was only a half system from downpipe back. Cosworth downpipe is bespoke and wont fit std sti turbo location
Up-pipe will be different also. not sure about the headers ( the bit under the engine in your pic covered in rhino skin) if you remove the rhino skin you be able to see if std sti headers or not but I suspect they wont be std otherwise theyd have used the std subaru heat shields.
That rhino skin is probably reusable also, unless its badly torn which isn't visible in the pics?
Up-pipe will be different also. not sure about the headers ( the bit under the engine in your pic covered in rhino skin) if you remove the rhino skin you be able to see if std sti headers or not but I suspect they wont be std otherwise theyd have used the std subaru heat shields.
That rhino skin is probably reusable also, unless its badly torn which isn't visible in the pics?
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The blue plug at the bottom is the oil control valve holder for the exhaust cam (10917AA060) and the exhaust cam position sensor (22056AA200) is there as well .
item 7 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre..._tension_cord/
item 8 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
item 7 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre..._tension_cord/
item 8 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
Last edited by Don Clark; 23 June 2019 at 03:07 PM.
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The blue plug at the bottom is the oil control valve holder for the exhaust cam (10917AA060) and the exhaust cam position sensor (22056AA200) is there as well .
item 7 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre..._tension_cord/
item 8 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
item 7 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre..._tension_cord/
item 8 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
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It looks like the motor in my spec C will be pulled to repair the chassis cross member mounting points. It's just about to hit 50000 miles, so I'll take the opportunity to do various jobs and I'd like your suggestions for anything I should attend to.
So far I plan a clutch change, new engine mounts, injectors cleaned, air pump blanking and removal, and fitting a Perrin aos and sports cat. Possible work may include turbo work and porting.
What else should be checked or done whilst it's out?
Thanks.
So far I plan a clutch change, new engine mounts, injectors cleaned, air pump blanking and removal, and fitting a Perrin aos and sports cat. Possible work may include turbo work and porting.
What else should be checked or done whilst it's out?
Thanks.
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I would leakage test the cylinders & bore scope it, lot easier if its out, & don't do what most do when removing quad avc's motors, disconnect your l/h exhaust avc's & trigger connections, gives you some room to play with & not snap off the avc's solonoid input, expensive if you do.
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It looks like the motor in my spec C will be pulled to repair the chassis cross member mounting points. It's just about to hit 50000 miles, so I'll take the opportunity to do various jobs and I'd like your suggestions for anything I should attend to.
So far I plan a clutch change, new engine mounts, injectors cleaned, air pump blanking and removal, and fitting a Perrin aos and sports cat. Possible work may include turbo work and porting.
What else should be checked or done whilst it's out?
Thanks.
So far I plan a clutch change, new engine mounts, injectors cleaned, air pump blanking and removal, and fitting a Perrin aos and sports cat. Possible work may include turbo work and porting.
What else should be checked or done whilst it's out?
Thanks.
EDIT: i assume its related to this https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...olt-holes.html
Last edited by Gambit; 01 July 2019 at 12:47 PM.
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Thanks Paul; good advice.
Craig, yeah, it's the stripped bolts. The cross member had been on and off in Japan for mods and repairs, so a couple were stripped then, and I've had it off countless times ( hur hur ) since and done another. All bolts need to be finger tightened before torquing down, rather than winding them in as you go. I hope it will cure the mystery knock that I've had forever.
Craig, yeah, it's the stripped bolts. The cross member had been on and off in Japan for mods and repairs, so a couple were stripped then, and I've had it off countless times ( hur hur ) since and done another. All bolts need to be finger tightened before torquing down, rather than winding them in as you go. I hope it will cure the mystery knock that I've had forever.
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Thanks Paul; good advice.
Craig, yeah, it's the stripped bolts. The cross member had been on and off in Japan for mods and repairs, so a couple were stripped then, and I've had it off countless times ( hur hur ) since and done another. All bolts need to be finger tightened before torquing down, rather than winding them in as you go. I hope it will cure the mystery knock that I've had forever.
Craig, yeah, it's the stripped bolts. The cross member had been on and off in Japan for mods and repairs, so a couple were stripped then, and I've had it off countless times ( hur hur ) since and done another. All bolts need to be finger tightened before torquing down, rather than winding them in as you go. I hope it will cure the mystery knock that I've had forever.
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Cool thanks guys, now I have the car back from ET I need to get her MOTed so might as well get that done at the same time.
The air pump shouldn't be an issue as they removed it when they did the engine rebuild
The air pump shouldn't be an issue as they removed it when they did the engine rebuild
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Rusti, was it rammed down there? Got to drop off for this engine out/ chassis rebuild there next week.
What clutches would anyone recommend for 360 hp , oem as possible; I've tried a Competition clutch with lightened flywheel, which was perfect, but don't know what stage it was.
What clutches would anyone recommend for 360 hp , oem as possible; I've tried a Competition clutch with lightened flywheel, which was perfect, but don't know what stage it was.