Its went far enough back to squash the 'red' intake pipe

 

True, but that is to the left of the chasis rail and directly where the impact occurred. To be fair? I am guessing how far the damage has gone but it doesn't look to be that far back in the area inside the chassis legs.

I'm not sure what hit the intake pipe though! I had assumed the headlamp squashed up against it, but you never know.

With the bonnet down, I cant see how anything other than the exhaust manifold or radiators could have reached the engine.

I was in two minds about whether to have the engine taken out and inspected. Will ask the body shop what they think.

 

It really does not take much of a hit to bend the front of the cam, just get your mechanic, when the belts off to check the run out & end float on that cam.

 

Did you retrofit the complete exhaust? I'm assuming the manifold section under the engine is standard sti?

 

Thanks, as I said earlier on, I do appreciate everyones comments and advice

 

No it was only a half system from downpipe back. Cosworth downpipe is bespoke and wont fit std sti turbo location

Up-pipe will be different also. not sure about the headers ( the bit under the engine in your pic covered in rhino skin) if you remove the rhino skin you be able to see if std sti headers or not but I suspect they wont be std otherwise theyd have used the std subaru heat shields.

That rhino skin is probably reusable also, unless its badly torn which isn't visible in the pics?

 

Thanks Don! I was initially thinking about the plastic/rubbery black one but the transparent one is much more discreet.

I miss the stereo steering wheel controls my Abarth has and often catch myself pressing the steering wheel to adjust the volume or change songs lol.
Can one retrofit steering wheel controls in a JDM car? The stereo (double DIN Pioneer) supports it.

 

Check your email

 

Anyone know where I can get a pair of oem side light bulb holders, or better still, the plug in section of the wiring loom from the main loom to the lights.
No matter the state of cars for breaking, no-one wants to part with that section of wiring loom. It's for a 2010 STI.
Thanks

 

Not surprising as it's part of the headlight assembly but can be purchased separately

 

[QUOTE=Don Clark;12055445]Not surprising as it's part of the headlight assembly but can be purchased separately
that's it, cheers. Now to see if can find some.

 

It looks to be torn, I'm going to try a d get it off the assess if I can re use it. As per your suggestion I will try Cosworth to see if I can buy it from them or elsewhere.

 

Does anyone know what these sensors are? I cant seem to locate them on opposed forces. Also I need to replace the wiring that I've highlighted. Is this a complete piece of the engine harness? Is it part of the front or bulkhead wiring? Or totally separate and not listed

 

The blue plug at the bottom is the oil control valve holder for the exhaust cam (10917AA060) and the exhaust cam position sensor (22056AA200) is there as well .

item 7 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre..._tension_cord/

item 8 here
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/

 

Brilliant thank you

 

do you have a before and after sound clip?

 

It looks like the motor in my spec C will be pulled to repair the chassis cross member mounting points. It's just about to hit 50000 miles, so I'll take the opportunity to do various jobs and I'd like your suggestions for anything I should attend to.
So far I plan a clutch change, new engine mounts, injectors cleaned, air pump blanking and removal, and fitting a Perrin aos and sports cat. Possible work may include turbo work and porting.
What else should be checked or done whilst it's out?
Thanks.

 

I would leakage test the cylinders & bore scope it, lot easier if its out, & don't do what most do when removing quad avc's motors, disconnect your l/h exhaust avc's & trigger connections, gives you some room to play with & not snap off the avc's solonoid input, expensive if you do.

 

Has anyone with a hatch had their airbag done on the recall, how long did it take?

 

have you pictures of the chassis cross member issue? be interesting to see what the issue is so i can check my own car if its a structural thing

EDIT: i assume its related to this https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...olt-holes.html

 

Thanks Paul; good advice.
Craig, yeah, it's the stripped bolts. The cross member had been on and off in Japan for mods and repairs, so a couple were stripped then, and I've had it off countless times ( hur hur ) since and done another. All bolts need to be finger tightened before torquing down, rather than winding them in as you go. I hope it will cure the mystery knock that I've had forever.

 

Recent Pembrokeshire tour

Me gog and me mate

 

if a couple where prev stripped then id say it most likely is your knocking issue. fingers crossed.

 

Anyone?

 

My dealer booked the car in for four hours, but I think it can be done quicker.

 

Thanks Matt

Any issues with damage or noises once completed?

 

Not really, there were a couple of bits not properly assembled back, but I just pushed them into place.

No rattles.

 

yeah, had it done with my service at Christmas.
takes about 2 hours.

also they did the 2nd airpump relay recall done too... or what ever it's called.

 

Cool thanks guys, now I have the car back from ET I need to get her MOTed so might as well get that done at the same time.

The air pump shouldn't be an issue as they removed it when they did the engine rebuild

 

Rusti, was it rammed down there? Got to drop off for this engine out/ chassis rebuild there next week.
What clutches would anyone recommend for 360 hp , oem as possible; I've tried a Competition clutch with lightened flywheel, which was perfect, but don't know what stage it was.