hi guys had my car built by alan jefries engine tuner about a year ago love it , but now I think its about time for some handling mods. im looking into the Scooby world handling stage 3 or 4 handling kit, which is one of the options, as it seamsquite comprehensive and the hopefully would be most of the underside done, has anyone here had the kit fitted to their sti?
also I want to get the Litchfield steering feed back kit, or whatever its called from whet I understand it weights up the steering, to get rid of the vague lifeless feel the Scooby has, does anyone know whats involved here or had the kit fitted, ive ordered from Subaru a 2015 / spec c steering rack to be fitted its a common mod in the states and wondering if anyone has done it over here yet? I need to get a new power steering pump first tho as mine is getting rather noisy. also ive seen offers on roll bars and other parts like eibach arbs and perrin parts how do these compare to the whiteline parts and what diameter arbs are people running? because there are a few different sizes also I assume you would have a fatter arb on the rear compaired to the front ?


exhaust. I have been running about 400 hp through my 330s catback for about a year, and at first I thought it was good to have it really quiet, but now I just want more theatre and drama it pops and bangs occasionally now but you don't really get any subie rumble, what exhausts are you guys running or would you recommend ?


and finally I realised the other day that the standard recirc valve is only rated to 20psi and on high boost I run over that so I have been looking into the gfb recic/ bov mainly because its black to match the mishimoto cooler ive got, anybody had any experience with these im looking to get a conefilter on there soon and just want that flutter to go with the cone filter suck lol.


any reply's would be greatly appreciated


Alex

litchfield pump mod is just a weaker spring in the pressure relief valve.

have a look at replacing the rear bush on the front wishbone - they are rubber void crap. subaru changed these to pillowball style for MY11 onwards but they are not a direct fit into MY08-10 wishbones. but you can get the likes of these which ive fitted https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...able/1625.html

havent done anything with rollbars except just polybush them. MY11 cars use 1mm thicker bars front and rear, and these can be retrofitted. all depends how stiff you want the car to be

how do you know the std dump valve is only rated to 20psi?

How do I adjust the spring pressure to suit different boost levels?

You don't need to! At full throttle there is equal boost pressure on both sides of the piston, so it doesn't matter what boost level you are running, the pressure balances itself out. It then requires very little spring pressure to stay shut. The spring adjustment is used to match the VACUUM signal of the car. The idea is to adjust the valve so that the piston remains just closed at idle. This way, when you lift off the pedal, the spring will be neutralized so that the boost is free to push the piston open.

I'm not really clued up on the inturnals but I was beer the impression the internal diaphram can split and cause issues like not holding full boost ?

Ahh nice so the mod can be done on my new pump when I get it, and will work with my 2015 rack ..

If I buy the scooby worl kit does it not include those bushes in the anti lift kit ? There is also a Perrin kit that replaces a few bushes to create slightly more caster are these the bushes in question ? And do you know what diameter arbs you have? I'm sick of the barge like body roll lol

I would look at the subframe inserts for a start. Makes a huge difference to the back end. I've done them along with the diff void fillers and the Arb bushes and whiteline front wishbone rear bushes. Make a noticeable difference.

Was the throttle body, motor seemed to stop moving butterfly.

Swapped out for one off ebay to test, car no longer drops to idle / no throttle action and actually feels back to her 500 bhp/lbft best - so seems like has been slowly failing for a few months!

Just spotted this after your other thread, Glad its sorted. Had a couple of failures recently. Mostly on the diesels though and a couple of foresters. I think personally the gearing wears inside and looses its motor positioning vs Butterfly position, some wouldn't even Idle and just died as soon as started. But as there a sealed unit I guess its bin fodder.

Cheers Rob, couldn't get hold of you ( did Mike say I phoned? ) but your suggestion pointed me to a unit off ebay .. worked!

Usually at very high mileage.


from
http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread...rth-12353.html

But then again I can't really shout too much

Sorry mate no Mike never passed on any messages or I'd have called you back. I'm chasing my **** about most days doing 4 things at once

Thanks for the link to the rear wishbone bush...gotta do this.

They are a good job but they can give a lot of nvh especially in form of dash rattles so youll probably need to foam back the dash binnacle at least.

Im assuming youre roads are a crap as those in belfast!

Later OE wishbones & bushes have larger pillow ball but with rubber outer to give best of both worlds.

Thanks. Any alternative to avoid nvh, apart from oem?

No experiences of any others but i think whiteline and superpro makes polybush kits for them

Though there are solid rubber ones made by 2 companies but cant remember their names, ill dig them out, they are a copies of the original group n bush which id looked at replacing the powerflex ones with if nvh becomes too much. Subaru later revised the group n bush to a metal pillow ball bush which is totally unusable in a road car

anyone tried these on their Hatch?
Brembo discs?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brembo-Xtr...kAAOSwgmJXyD2g

Was tempted, as they claim the drilling doesn`t crack at all, but as a self proclaimed tight wad I went for standard Brembo rears at £ 90 for a pair. I would spend more on the fronts though. I tried to buy from Eurocarparts, as they offer alot off at weekends, but they had none anywhere, and no discount on performance parts.

Thanks Gambit

The 2 solid rubber offerings are:-

http://www.tomiokaracing.com/index.p...or-subaru.html

http://www.meganracing.com/products/...=1597&catid=97

Which i think would be perfectly suitable for a daily driver. only thing you do not get is the increased caster

That`s great Gambit; thank you very much.
I`ve got another problem.... drivers side tail gate light cluster was on today, as the modified fog light is in it ( jdm) but it was white light. The clear bulb had been felt tipped red to be a fog light , by the importer, but it is not red at all. Can you get a red 585 bulb for this , or do I have to have a red lense or overlay? Red doesn`t go with yellow very well.
The importers handed over the car with the wrong dipped headlight bulbs in it, so I am pissed off to say the least; they must have a tame MOT tester......
I could have been pulled for this.
The other tailgate lense is allowing in water; does it have a seal or gasket?
Thanks

Correct wattage and voltage for a rear fog 585 would be good, if anyone can help, as there seem to be lots of options....many thanks

I fitted these with no nvh
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...CA334&sq=21047

Many thanks; good options with standard and castor/antilift

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/ABD...DGE-WHITE.html

ive this LED Fog in mine, and it even shines bright enough through smoked overlays to pass a N.Ireland MOT (which are government run MOT centres!)

Ideal, but no red ones in stock. Thanks though

ask Salsa-King - he sells his overlays on ebay with replacement fog bulb now so maybe he bought them all!!

Anyone else notice their speedo reads a bit high?

They all read high (upto 10%)

The only speed they're supposed to be accurate is up to 30mph (by law).

As said, for all other increments above that, the slight overread is deliberately built in by the manufacturer. I assume it's to ensure you DEFINITELY stay within speed limits (only works if you're a law abiding citizen, of course ).

Presume the ODO is accurate though?