bumper skin comes off quite easy.....push clips along top of grill, side of wheel arch edge and underneath then just pulls off as such

 

Cheers Gambit!

 

sorry missed one very important bit

remember to remove the headlamp washer just covers before you do anything - you just pull the washer jets up and then the washer covers clip off the top of them. washer jet will then return down into the hole and wont foul then when removing the bumper

 

Hi all, got a genuine STi Duracon 6 speed gear **** for sale £60 posted..... More hatch bits to come.

 

I finally got my imported 08 hatch on the road after belt and fluid changes (plus a few extras!) and started to learn how to drive it. My car came with Tein Mono Sport Coilovers with the Active EDFC Pro control and and they are a bit rough on my local roads so I was looking at traditional spring & strut setups. I managed to get a list of contenders ad wondering if anyone has experiences with any of the following:

• Bilstein B12 - Pro-Kit 46-264305 - Available in UK and made specifically for the 2011 320R UK Saloon. Come with DampTronic
• Original 20th Anniversary suspension setup - Available from Japan and a good fit since mine is a 20th
• R205 suspension setup - Available from Japan
• STI NBR Challenge Bilstein damper kit - Available from Japan not S206 version
• S206 STI NBR Challenge Bilstein damper kit - From UK crazy price
• tS type RA Suspension setup - From Japan and expensive
• S207 suspension that uses DAMP MATIC II

Cheers!

 

I have the STI Bilsteins and pink springs from Japan, they are much better than the Spec C shocks and springs. Although if I was to do it again and for the price I’d go for Bilsteins from the normal catalogue in the UK and save some money.

 

Best You can go for road are Ohlins road&track coilovers with their fancy valve that will not devalue a car.
Bilstein b16's DT is a way.
for 20th sti original 20th dampers if not ohlins
s206,s207 ,ts are made/setup for more heavy saloon

 

devalue?

 

Guess the side vents just push/click out from behind when bumper is off then?

 

yeah they are just part of the bumper skin & dont attach to anything else

 

3 white clips holding them on from the inside.

 

On my 2008 JDM 20th anniversary hatchback i'll be doing the gearbox and rear diff oil changes over the weekend, i've ordered the Motul 75W 90 fluids from Alyn at AS Performance. On the 6 speed gearbox you have 3 plugs, 2 drain plugs and a fill plug, i think 2 of the plugs, the ones on the side are 10mm hex then you have the one at the front case which is a T70 Torx. Does anyone know the Torque settings for those.

Also on the rear diff, you have 2 plugs, one with the sensor in it and the drain plug below it, do you know what the torque setting are for these or are you old school and just do it until it's snug then just a small nip after its snug ?

 

IIRC I followed one like this, double check the torque settings mentioned though.
TRANS

1) Unbolt the Fill Hole From the Trans
2) Unbolt 10MM Allen from the Trans oil pan
3) Unbolt the T70 Torx on the clutch housing side side (let more oil drain out)
4) Clean Bolt, then re-attach the 10MM Allen Bolt on the transmission pan (torque to 32.5 FT/LBS)
5) Clean Bolt, then re-attach the T70 Torx bolt on the clutch side (51.6 FT/LBS)
6) Fill 4.3 Quarts of Transmission Fluid on the FILL HOLE (until it starts to dribble on the side)
7) Clean Bolt, then re-attach the bolt to the fill hole (32.5 FT/LBS)
8) Take the car out for a drive around the block or two
9) Unplug the Fill Hole (check level) - and add a bit more as needed.

REAR DIFF

1) Disconnect Oil Temp Switch Connector
2) Unbolt Fill Plug (22 mm deep socket, don't detach the temp switch)Unbolt Drain Plug
3) Unbolt Drain Plug

Note: remove the temp switch and plug as ONE UNIT, do not remove the temp switch then try to remove the fill plug - means you got to use a DEEP socket. It's fragile and very expensive to replace

4) Let fluid fully drain
5) Bolt up Drain Plug (Torque to 44.3 FT/LBS) Some say 36.9 FT/LBS

Note: apply thread sealant on drain plug to avoid potential leaks, I used JOMAR SEAL W.O.G. Plus (means Water - Oil - Gas) which I let dry for about 45 minutes before re-attaching.

6) Fill with fluid (1.1 Quart)
7) Bolt up Fill Plug w/ Temp Switch (Torque to 44.3 FT/LBS) Some say 36.9 FT/LBS then and Re-Plug the Oil Temp Switch Connector

 

Thanks Marco, it's apprciated. The irony is that i bought the Halfords advanced Hex/Torx set not that long ago, it was for a different small job, it goes upto a T60, the gearbox requires a T70 lol. That's no prob as i'm picking one up from Halfords later along with a breaker bar as ive seen in a couple of youtube videos on the Subaru 6 speed box that the T70 can be tough to move, i'd rather be prepared than not lol. I could easily get someone to do it for me but i enjoy learning about the things i own, i'm not a mechanic but i have a decent level of understanding tech etc, certain things you'd take it to the experts but with general servicing things like this it feels good that you've done them yourself.

This is a good video i came across not long ago

 

Yes it feels good to do it yourself and know care has been taken, I did mine on my back with the car on axle stands so not too bad.

 

Give the front a minor refresh switched from sport grill to r205/anniversary style front grill then added wee red stripe to it

 

Yes for example putting bc racing br coilovers will reduce the value of 20th anniversary sti .
Try them You will know why

 

I know what the BCs are like, they will convert the car into a shaking rattle box, but you could swap the standard kit back on before sale.

 

Yes but he has no oem kit hance my answer above about ohlins

 

Nice, but I've not recovered from your bonnet yet

 

Any alternative makes of rear adjustable droplinks anyone can suggest, apart from the usual suspects? They seem to last 2k miles with me.
Do NOT suggest Whiteline! I'm looking at Perrin ( probably rust as much as WL) but also some US ones like Voodoo13. Thanks

 

Sorry I also struggled with finding any so just went superpro non adjustable in the end from memory

 

Couple more bits
£25 posted



£100 Posted



£15 posted


£15 Posted

 

its the way forward (for FMIC setup)

re droplinks - i just use Subaru OEM on my eibach roll bars

 

I presume Ohlins like a lot of the higher end coilovers will have to be serviced regular and will come with big servicing costs, it's just something you have to factor in if your going high end.

 

new private plate today love it

 

Talking of private plates, i've got S555 PWR on retention for £850 if anyone is interested as i won't be using it on anything now, it's what i paid for it, its a great reg esp if you've gone down the modding route.

 

Ive got a private reg for sale too its FG03 WRX For 400 pounds on retention

 

Hi all, interested in this 330s https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266957873...mis&media=COPY.

can anyone tell me if they thinks it’s worth it or if I should stay away as I’m really considering it thanks.

 

You just need to make sure it has the forged bits that it says it has.

The prices for the aftermarket bits are very low in today's terms. And low enough even going back 5yrs ago so would take it all with a pinch of salt.

you would be able to see if it has an MLS fitted as the tab will be visible and with usually either say RCM or cosworth on them if the build was done years back

320bhp with fmic etc is low number given it's 325bhp standard