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Old 05 June 2016, 08:49 AM
  #15331  
domino46
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Originally Posted by RAGGY DOO
And the raised spoiler unreal Dom love the red against the black very very nice
Thanks mate
Old 05 June 2016, 09:49 AM
  #15332  
hedgecutter
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Hi Hatch peeps; I`ve got a problem with my spec C which I would appreciate help with.
Since picking it up a few weeks ago, a grinding rubbing noise has been apparent on turning right, from the near side front, at most speeds until road/exhaust noise covers it. At low speed manoeuvring speed, it is joined by a clicking/clunk. This all got much louder this weekend when hot, after a road trip up to the Midlands, and geometry set by Peter Cambridge at Warwick. The noise is not rotational, the dccd is on auto, and it is clearly from the front left near side. Travelling on dual carriageway at speed it is not noticable. I am thinking cv joint/ top mount/front diff(hope not) but any ideas gratefully accepted. I posted in technical, but hope for more response here. All appears standard, apart from bigger arb. Many thanks
Old 05 June 2016, 09:53 AM
  #15333  
CharlySkunkWeed
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Originally Posted by chrishigham
Looks good where did you get the clear fog light from ?
Subaru dealer mate. Or there's a member on here Rob84
Old 05 June 2016, 10:04 AM
  #15334  
salsa-king
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
Hi Hatch peeps; I`ve got a problem with my spec C which I would appreciate help with.
Since picking it up a few weeks ago, a grinding rubbing noise has been apparent on turning right, from the near side front, at most speeds until road/exhaust noise covers it. At low speed manoeuvring speed, it is joined by a clicking/clunk. This all got much louder this weekend when hot, after a road trip up to the Midlands, and geometry set by Peter Cambridge at Warwick. The noise is not rotational, the dccd is on auto, and it is clearly from the front left near side. Travelling on dual carriageway at speed it is not noticable. I am thinking cv joint/ top mount/front diff(hope not) but any ideas gratefully accepted. I posted in technical, but hope for more response here. All appears standard, apart from bigger arb. Many thanks

if moving at low speed, could it be a ball joint or like what you've said. shouldn't be a big problem to sort.. just don't leave it too long
Old 05 June 2016, 10:05 AM
  #15335  
domino46
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
Hi Hatch peeps; I`ve got a problem with my spec C which I would appreciate help with.
Since picking it up a few weeks ago, a grinding rubbing noise has been apparent on turning right, from the near side front, at most speeds until road/exhaust noise covers it. At low speed manoeuvring speed, it is joined by a clicking/clunk. This all got much louder this weekend when hot, after a road trip up to the Midlands, and geometry set by Peter Cambridge at Warwick. The noise is not rotational, the dccd is on auto, and it is clearly from the front left near side. Travelling on dual carriageway at speed it is not noticable. I am thinking cv joint/ top mount/front diff(hope not) but any ideas gratefully accepted. I posted in technical, but hope for more response here. All appears standard, apart from bigger arb. Many thanks
Might sound daft but the drop links aren't fouling on anything are they ? Might be worth a look
Old 05 June 2016, 07:03 PM
  #15336  
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
Looks great! Can you post a pic of the trims, and what process did you use to paint them ? Matt or gloss? Cheers Hedge



E-Tech black alloy wheel paint and lacquer, finish is a semi-gloss. Much happier now

Last edited by 8ulldog; 05 June 2016 at 08:48 PM.
Old 05 June 2016, 07:47 PM
  #15337  
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Originally Posted by 8ulldog


E-Tech black alloy wheel paint and lacquer, finish is a smi-gloss. Much happier now
Good match. any undercoat/primer?

My front end problem is definately knocking at low speed, turning to a rumble;grinding was the wrong way to describe it.
Old 05 June 2016, 08:48 PM
  #15338  
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
Good match. any undercoat/primer?

My front end problem is definately knocking at low speed, turning to a rumble;grinding was the wrong way to describe it.
Yes, quick sand to etch, 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of colour and 3 coats of lacquer.
Old 05 June 2016, 10:59 PM
  #15339  
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Good job....and the rest of the car looks pretty good too! I really wanted a blue one, but wasn`t allowed
Old 07 June 2016, 04:47 PM
  #15340  
RAGGY DOO
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looking at the whiteline website would i be correct in saying the arb kit front and rear with links and bushes is part number BSK011 ?
Old 07 June 2016, 07:38 PM
  #15341  
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BSK 011 is right kit bin waiting since January for this kit out of stock EVERY where. No rear bars. Available.
Old 07 June 2016, 09:48 PM
  #15342  
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They are available in eBay
Old 07 June 2016, 09:50 PM
  #15343  
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http://m.ebay.ie/itm/Whiteline-BSK01...226?nav=SEARCH
Old 08 June 2016, 08:25 PM
  #15344  
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Question Anyone replaced a failed MAF?

Has anyone had a MAF fail? I know they were flaky on my classic and blob but are they the same on the hatch? Mine is running lean (according to the Romraider log) and the MAF voltages look all over the place.

I wondered if anyone else had had this problem?
Old 08 June 2016, 09:05 PM
  #15345  
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Hi Raggy waiting for uk dealer outlet Balancemotorsport have quoted me £453 deliveid in soon !!!!!!!!
Old 08 June 2016, 10:16 PM
  #15346  
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Originally Posted by fatboy_coach
Has anyone had a MAF fail? I know they were flaky on my classic and blob but are they the same on the hatch? Mine is running lean (according to the Romraider log) and the MAF voltages look all over the place.

I wondered if anyone else had had this problem?
How have you tested yours i think mine could be faulty do you have any symptoms of a faulty maf
Old 09 June 2016, 04:10 PM
  #15347  
nscol
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Guys, i need help.
The battery is dead on my 2009 WRX and i can't get the doors open to jump start the car.
Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
Old 09 June 2016, 04:15 PM
  #15348  
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Yea. Try the key.
Old 09 June 2016, 04:40 PM
  #15349  
Guesty
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Put the key in door and open it then pop bonnet
Old 09 June 2016, 05:39 PM
  #15350  
JGlanzaV
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Originally Posted by matt-c
Yea. Try the key.

LOL.

What an off the wall suggestion. Are you sure this will work?
Old 09 June 2016, 05:49 PM
  #15351  
domino46
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
LOL.

What an off the wall suggestion. Are you sure this will work?
Does whenever mine goes dead , then pop the bonnet and away you go,, what an old fashioned way of getting in
Old 09 June 2016, 06:33 PM
  #15352  
nscol
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The doors won't open with the key as the alarm was on and its flattened the battery.

When i turn the key nothing happens and the alarm/immobiliser wont go off.
Old 09 June 2016, 06:58 PM
  #15353  
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Originally Posted by Guesty
How have you tested yours i think mine could be faulty do you have any symptoms of a faulty maf
I just logged it in romraider and looked at the voltages which don't seem as smooth as they should. That said my car is actually running rich, which I think is the lambda sensor. I'm pretty sure sitting in traffic for an hour a day with a decat is clogging the lambda and I need to 'burn' the crud off it by giving it a good hiding!
Old 09 June 2016, 07:34 PM
  #15354  
domino46
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Originally Posted by nscol
The doors won't open with the key as the alarm was on and its flattened the battery.

When i turn the key nothing happens and the alarm/immobiliser wont go off.
My doors lock and unlock (drivers door) with the key even with no battery on the car so not sure why it's not letting you unlock it
Old 09 June 2016, 07:38 PM
  #15355  
Guesty
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Originally Posted by domino46
My doors lock and unlock (drivers door) with the key even with no battery on the car so not sure why it's not letting you unlock it


Mines the same when i went to view mime last month before i bought it the battery was flat as a pancake used key to unlock drivers door pop bonnet threw a jumper pack onit started the rest is history
Old 10 June 2016, 10:08 AM
  #15356  
chrishigham
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Here is my hatch. Full rebuild . One owner from new

Old 10 June 2016, 10:14 AM
  #15357  
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Few more




Old 11 June 2016, 05:34 AM
  #15358  
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Originally Posted by nscol
The doors won't open with the key as the alarm was on and its flattened the battery.

When i turn the key nothing happens and the alarm/immobiliser wont go off.

my key also works in the drivers door when i have a flat battery.

Have you had locks changed.. or the key/ignition barrel lock swapped but not the door locks.. and your key doesn't fit/work in the doors?
Old 11 June 2016, 05:36 AM
  #15359  
salsa-king
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BTW guys.. Rear over lays are back on ebay
with or without a RED bulb.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/neoquip/m....p2047675.l2562


get your clear rear FOG LIGHT CLUSTER (about £70ish) from Rob Ostle (Rob84 on ScoobyNet)
Old 11 June 2016, 08:26 PM
  #15360  
nscol
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The keys definitely worked before the battery went flat, now when i put either in the lock and turn them nothing happens, no noise, they will turn but the door will not unlock. I'm going to speak to the local Subaru garage on Monday to see if this has happened before.


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