08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
here is a picture of mine prior to japfest 2

also got a couple of pics of salsa kings at japfest



Also found this as my inspiration for a few ideas for mine in the future as and when i have the money

only real progress was a service and leak down test and chevron stafford, wanted to check the reliability of the engine the best i could before mapping etc as i dont know how the care was cared for before me.
also got a couple of pics of salsa kings at japfest
Also found this as my inspiration for a few ideas for mine in the future as and when i have the money
only real progress was a service and leak down test and chevron stafford, wanted to check the reliability of the engine the best i could before mapping etc as i dont know how the care was cared for before me.
Not that hard to do single handed........
What brake discs and pads do you guys recommend or have good/ bad experience of? My rear discs need replacing and I'll probably upgrade the fronts too.
I currently have the standard flat discs all round with Pagid pads which are ok but I'm tempted to go with grooved all round and perhaps Kevlar pads.
I only do 4k miles a year and its not often driven hard. As long as they don't squeal I'm not that fussy with noise or dust.
I currently have the standard flat discs all round with Pagid pads which are ok but I'm tempted to go with grooved all round and perhaps Kevlar pads.
I only do 4k miles a year and its not often driven hard. As long as they don't squeal I'm not that fussy with noise or dust.
AFAIK it's just a plain gloss black. The piano black is a Cosworth "thing"
Has extra clear coat on a solid finish (which you wouldn't normally do).
Last edited by Don Clark; Jul 28, 2013 at 10:37 PM.
will be doing spoiler and mirrors too all being well
What brake discs and pads do you guys recommend or have good/ bad experience of? My rear discs need replacing and I'll probably upgrade the fronts too.
I currently have the standard flat discs all round with Pagid pads which are ok but I'm tempted to go with grooved all round and perhaps Kevlar pads.
I only do 4k miles a year and its not often driven hard. As long as they don't squeal I'm not that fussy with noise or dust.
I currently have the standard flat discs all round with Pagid pads which are ok but I'm tempted to go with grooved all round and perhaps Kevlar pads.
I only do 4k miles a year and its not often driven hard. As long as they don't squeal I'm not that fussy with noise or dust.
I tried some Kinetix disks on the rears and although they fitted and seemed of a good quality, they didn't have the handbrake adjustment hole, so I binned them (expensive lesson learnt there :-( )
Last edited by stressballsteve; Aug 1, 2013 at 07:12 AM.
I use Godspeed's grooved disks. They're a bit noisy to start with but once bedded in they are fine. I tried the Kevlar pads and find them OK, but they do clunk in the callipers when going from reverse to forward or vice versa as they seem to be a fraction smaller than the OE pads. I've heard that Ferodo are very good, if a little expensive but I've not tried them yet. I'm currently running Pagid pads and I've had no issues with them on the road in normal day to day driving.
I tried some Tarox disks on the rears and although they fitted and seemed of a good quality, they didn't have the handbrake adjustment hole, so I binned them (expensive lesson learnt there :-( )
I think I'll probably go for the Godspeed discs too and look into more pad options.
Last year I had access to my brothers megane R26 which had the same size Brembo calipers but with drilled discs, I'm not sure which pads but the car had noticeably better stopping power than mine I know this goes against the fact that flat discs have more surface area and so should be better, so maybe the pads made all the difference. Anyone got drilled discs and a harder pad on their hatch?
Drilled discs can crack easier, starting from the hole. Stick with grooved discs, they sweep away any brake pad gasses just fine.
I liked Mintex 1144, 1155 pads and Ferodo 2500 on my classic hatch; forthe 2009 hatch just used std OEM pads and then EBC NDX BLUE RACE pads on Godspeed 2 piece grooved discs on the front, pretty good - from cold and when trying.
Only EBC pads I would use.
Are rear discs ( non Subaru ) available now, weren't a couple of years ago!
I liked Mintex 1144, 1155 pads and Ferodo 2500 on my classic hatch; forthe 2009 hatch just used std OEM pads and then EBC NDX BLUE RACE pads on Godspeed 2 piece grooved discs on the front, pretty good - from cold and when trying.
Only EBC pads I would use.
Are rear discs ( non Subaru ) available now, weren't a couple of years ago!
Thanks for the info, so I'm guessing Kevlar pads were not significantly better than the pagids?
I think I'll probably go for the Godspeed discs too and look into more pad options.
Last year I had access to my brothers megane R26 which had the same size Brembo calipers but with drilled discs, I'm not sure which pads but the car had noticeably better stopping power than mine I know this goes against the fact that flat discs have more surface area and so should be better, so maybe the pads made all the difference. Anyone got drilled discs and a harder pad on their hatch?
I think I'll probably go for the Godspeed discs too and look into more pad options.
Last year I had access to my brothers megane R26 which had the same size Brembo calipers but with drilled discs, I'm not sure which pads but the car had noticeably better stopping power than mine I know this goes against the fact that flat discs have more surface area and so should be better, so maybe the pads made all the difference. Anyone got drilled discs and a harder pad on their hatch?
Thanks for the info guys, yeah the R26 is about 200kgs lighter so that must have helped. I'm going to go for the Godspeed ones I think.
I'm also going to flush the system, is it worth upgrading to braided lines while I'm at it?
I'm also going to flush the system, is it worth upgrading to braided lines while I'm at it?
This is more a question for Rob, but any one else have any views on it?...I took my car to Walldonway to have it's 60k service and some ProDrive lowering springs fitted...all seemed good then my clutch went (not blaming dealer for that, but as it was on its last legs, surely they should have noticed it slipping and the peddle being creaky/lumpy?). I took the car to Neil@Slowboy-Racing (top guy!) and as he lifted the car, the front struts almost fell off...the mechanic who fitted them had only finger tightened the nylock bolts that hold the uprights to the turrets...then, on inspection of the rears, he noticed both shocks were knocking and leaking...now I assume that it's possible to see the struts when you install the new springs so any reason why the dealer wouldn't let me know of this dangerous condition? Lastly, whilst being serviced and road tested, would the mechanic be listening for wheel bearing failure? my nearside front is on its way out.
Thanks and sorry for the ramble...just not happy :-(
Thanks and sorry for the ramble...just not happy :-(
This is more a question for Rob, but any one else have any views on it?...I took my car to Walldonway to have it's 60k service and some ProDrive lowering springs fitted...all seemed good then my clutch went (not blaming dealer for that, but as it was on its last legs, surely they should have noticed it slipping and the peddle being creaky/lumpy?). I took the car to Neil@Slowboy-Racing (top guy!) and as he lifted the car, the front struts almost fell off...the mechanic who fitted them had only finger tightened the nylock bolts that hold the uprights to the turrets...then, on inspection of the rears, he noticed both shocks were knocking and leaking...now I assume that it's possible to see the struts when you install the new springs so any reason why the dealer wouldn't let me know of this dangerous condition? Lastly, whilst being serviced and road tested, would the mechanic be listening for wheel bearing failure? my nearside front is on its way out.
Thanks and sorry for the ramble...just not happy :-(
Thanks and sorry for the ramble...just not happy :-(
yes they would also have seen the rear struts failing as they have to be removed to fit the springs etc.
the dealer should test drive the car after any work has been carried out and all findings should be written down on both the job card and the invoice in the recommendations section..
Cheers all. I just wonder what else they missed? Spark plugs? Oil? Makes me angry...also I didn't get the usual piece of paper with all the usual "this needs doing, that needs doing, tyres have Xmm tread etc"...the funny thing is I rang to find out if its ready and they said "it's just out on a test drive now, we'll let you know when it's back so we make sure everything is OK" bah!!! It didn't even get a once over with a sponge. Well, I won't be using them again! Hopefully the subaru warranty will sort the struts and bearing and I may call IM to see what they'll do regarding the shocking practice at this dealer. I think I'll just use Slowboy from now on











