Kedlestone, no doubt you'll get flamed for this and muggins will too right along with you, but here goes... (lol) if you're very serious about having a vent to atmosphere bov then have a look at GFB's Hybrid valve - it's adjustable so that so much is vented to atmosphere and so much is recircluted and kept in the system (which is really recommended!). The valves that vent entirely to atmosphere can cause you some nasty problems down the road ....I'm not going to go into that just now. But GFB's Response valve will give you your 'noise' but at the same time also operate in the same way the OEM recirc valve does. I've kept things very brief here to try and remain neutral and not stir up a hornet's nest. But give it some googling - if you're going to fit one then a hybrid like this is your 'safest' bet. And these particular ones seem to have quite the following. This link is directly to the manufacter's site:

http://www.gfb.com.au/products?page=...ategory_id=444

UK retailers average them at about £250.00-ish.

But I'd really avoid a valve that vents entirely to atmosphere on these ...I too had one a '04 plate Blobeye (it was a HKS SSQV) and never had an issue with it and I had the very same unit on my '96 UK Turbo before that. But from what I've read on the newer generations having them, I'm not going to risk a total vent to atmosphere unit on a near standard set-up unless I was one day on a totally maf-less system!

 

AP Racing Organic Clutch OEM feel but stronger

 

Yeah I know about the pitfalls on the newage saloons as I mentioned I have the HKS one also with no issues, just didn't know if the hatches suffered from any ill effects. I'll tell the missus to stick with the OEM one for now, we are going forged in the future so will probably end up going DV delete on a MD series.

Cheers though

 

£80 ouch

 

Cheers Rob as always

 

The bf said he'd leave me if I put a bonnet guard on my silver hatch...He muttered something about car bra...Lol. Are they really that bad? I'm sick of seeing the chips on the front of the bonnet!

 

Dump valves and bonnet bras on the same page bloody hell lol.

I ran a GFB on my newage car it was set to recirc and made quite a lot of noise until I removed the trumpet, then it would only make a hiss at high revs. Certainly noticed nothing in the way of running problems or poor fuel consumption, at least no poorer than Subarus are famous for lol.

Bonnet bras are hideous things, they are ugly and every chavvy Mk IV Golf or Saxo around seem to have them fitted. I'd look at some of the invisible systems if stone chips trouble you that much...

 

Lmao...consider myself told I'll just have to get over the chips

 

It's only my opinion! But I don't think anyone would argue they look good!

Get some pics up of your car, I notice it's your first post welcome to Scoobynet

 

in the accessory book, it said not for the STi (re: bonnet bra)

how about having your bonnet wrapped?
http://www.pwpro.co.uk/cars/vinyl-wrapping

I've had my roof done

 

It still chips salsa king.

I have one on and it really does not make a difference. The stone just hit the bonnet protector then fly of onto the windscreen or the roof. So i would just save your money lol

 

Here is mine.

 

I wonder if anyone out there has had a gearbox issue on the hatch?
Particularly noise.

Mine is 330S 2009.


On idle, it thunks / rattles ( sounds like a diesel ) goes away when clutch depressed. ( no not bottom end gone! Engine forged, 5000 miles old! ).
In gear and on the move, same.
At higher speeds can't hear it over road / wind / exhaust noise. Or is working faster so noise stops or blends in?

On and off throttle in traffic in gear, screeeee noise ( backlash in the gears ? Bearings ? ).


All works fine, just annoying sat at lights or in town traffic.

Cheers

V

 

Could be your clutch.......................... release bearing or lever rattling.

 

Interesting Don, does sound rattly, goes away when clutch dipped.

Clutch changed when engine out in Feb so should be OK, I guess new release bearing went in too ( general car/box is 37000 miles old).
STi quick shift lever fitted by dealer. 'box has PU bushes/mounts isolator pad thingies so should not be loose - and problem only really noticeable last couple of months when trying to trace a rattle underneath over road repair bumps.... and had radio /a ir con off.

Noisy enough to hear over air con on high when idle or moving in traffic.


My thought was some input shaft bearing perhaps, another could be crank thrust bearing ( since goes away under clutch pedal load ) ... but again should be fine since new build!

I am not sure in these DCCD equiped 6 speeds what is where in the box - front drive shaft bearings, selector forks, bearings etc etc. to know better what it might be.

Under the car on idle I guess to better id the problem area?


Ohh yeah, forgot, when accellerating 1000 - 3000 rpm seems to be a resonance noise from that area like a heat shield vibrating / rattling .. which is what I was probably looking to find initially!

 

Hmmm pilot bearing / spigot bearing has been mentioned ... is this engine out job to change or 'box drop?
It's only a £15 bit!

 

Interesting one guys and keen to get some views - on Sunday (beginning of day and car cold) had a check over of car and noticed the water overspill/resovoir bottle (bottom right) in the space of one week had gone from sitting just at the 'full' line to now absolutley right at the very top of the bottle neck at cap (clour light brown almost).

Now I'm thinking it can't be HG on 40k (I'd hope) but car was recently forged - potential to be blocked pipe/leakage or something when engine put back together?

Anyone had anything similar with their hatch?

 

In the hot weather has it over heated?
The bottle is full as the water header tank cap on o/s has lifted sending water to the overflow bottle, and/or the radiator ( higher ) pressure has lifted doing the same.
Forgot how they are connected now.

What's the level in the header tank like? It should suck back when cold.

might be head gaskets, mine was spitting water out of the bottle at 32000 miles on rolling road and after mapping before the forge build, the head gaskets had lifted and allowed water to track.

 

HG failure!!

 

sounds typical headgasket failure symptoms unfortunatly, pressure from being on boost means gas present in the water so cant draw in the coolant when it cools down

 

In last week in the scorching heat it hasnt moved an dot from bang on half way on temperture gauge and Ive done a fair bit of driving. Just wondering if its in anyway related to just getting car back after forge and mapping rather than poss HG.

 

Are the hatches a problem to bleed air out of the water system after being drained ( as ealrier scoobs were ? ).
Might be air lock and hot spots / boiling the coolant ...



If car engine recently rebuilt / upgraded to forge internals I would expect decent gaskets to have been used so really shouldn't be head gaskets failing. Are you on head bolts or head studs now ?

 

</p>
ARP Head bolts mate

 

Still on head bolts then... not sure how much benefit going to ARP head bolts will make, most forged builds go head studs to clamp head down better. I assume the ARP bolts are better than std bolts.

Hmm some interesting info on the differences!
http://www.thomasnet.com/articles/ha...ead-stud-bolts

What boost are you mapped to / running?

 

Hatches arnt known for issues bleeding the air out, One of the better versions to do if I'm honest, I made a suggestion to Ray of setting the level in the expansion bottle and filling the car up with coolant via the turbo coolant hose ontop to ensure no air locks

 

Cheers guys.

Rob - got mate trying this for me tomorrow so will report back. But if air lock would you expect colour of water change?

Vulnax999 - unsure mate as only got back last week as had left car with garage whilst away on hols but will find out.

I'd just be pretty peefed off if after spending thousands on it that the HG had now gone.

 

Wouldn't usually expect to see the coolant change colour, Unless it had failed before the build and the radiator hasnt been cleaned out properly.

 

Block rust, rad rust? Air in the water system would lead to this....Hmm alloy block and radiator I recall .... again should have all been cleaned at engine build.

Turbo hot side is iron ... rusts ... hmmm... same turbo I guess?


Do you know what coolant has been fitted - something else to ask perhaps - the Subaru stuff is good for 100,000 miles I believe! Seems to work too.

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply both - I will keep you updated on outcome.

Fingers crossed.

 

This might aid/help..............

6MT components