You'll be surprised what a little drop makes on the STI, mine is on ppp springs and 18" 35 offset rims and its a 5mm drop at the back and makes all the difference.

 

How easy is it to change discs and pads on the STi, unfortunately driving home work this evening, got an awful metal on metal sound from the front near side front.

Hopefully I will be able to get a set of disk & pads from Ian at Godspeed so I get everything changed this weekend.

Not something I particularly want to do but nearest dealer is 30+ miles away and not sure I trust them, nearest independent is Carnetix in Melton Mowbray some 50 miles away.

Cannot believe I got down to metal without any warning.

 

Probably an hour a side if first time you have done it.

I did a write up on the GR Hatch forum if I recall when I fitted Godspeed 2 piece discs and NDX pads a while ago.

http://subaruhatch.forumotion.com/t3...-exchange-help

 

rob could be intrested in front splitter when u change front end !

 

Rob, have to ask what's your plan for the engine that you have kicked the crap out of over the last 40k ;-) you hanging on to it

 

since it's still on standard bore, I'll bore it and overhaul it to forged spec and probably sell it on with the cylinder heads already on

 

No probs mate

 

Thanks for that, worst bit will be if caliper mounting bolts stick

 

I have a 2007 Hawkeye WRX and last 2 sets of pads even on different callipers, its always NSF inboard pad that is always down to the metal first. The three other pads all have about 4mm + on them, I find this strange as the car had Electronic Brake Distribution Control.

Any way cant speak for brembos but the 4 pots to change pads and discs should take about 40 mins a side some wd40 copper grease and kitchen roll to clean the shims bit of string to tie the calliper into the spring.

vid for pads


Get to the part when you have pushed the pistons back then remove the calliper by removing the 2 bolts to the rear of the calliper and tie it on the spring to keep it out the way, if the discs are original items I used 2 off 6mm bolts to jack the disc off the hub new discs will slide on rattly good fit at this point I used 2 wheel nuts to hold them on to the hub then rebolt the calliper back on and follow rest of vid. Hope this helps. PS the vid is from America so don't be shy with wd4o on the bolts and pins and make sure reservoir is low and lid is off this will help pushing pistons back.

 

Ok cool stuff mate, although I thought it was already forged? So excuse my nievety but why or to what would you bore it out to?

 

Yes it's forged already, but to be honest I wouldn't sell in it's current guise due to miles & use I'd prefer to overhaul it and sell as a new build.

Its on standard bore 99.5mm the next size would be 99.75mm so not allot really, just enough to ensure the bores are round etc etc Would prefer for the new owner to benefit from a new build rather than one that's been given a very hard life. My reputation on the line if a failure happened on a used engine

 

Na that makes sense just couldn't get my head around the bore thing lol not technically minded in that sense, you need a server building then boom I'm your guy. Guess it would only be new pistons though as the rest would be ok or would it not am I being proper dumb now

May be interested that's all as my warranty is up in May so was contemplating a forged build and this may be a more cost effective route depending on your side etc. Drop me a PM if your interested

Regards

 

Be more than just pistons to be honest mate, Bore & hone to suite new pistons block face skim, cylinder heads skimmed/crack & pressure tested.

new oil pump & modine. new crank & bearings/ new head gaskets. already has arp headstuds & h-beam Conrods which will be ok, studs will be measured for stretch though.

Heads will be complete with valves all re lapped depending on condition or re-cut and new stem seals & cams shimmed up ready to roll, just need to swap your rocker cover over, cam pulleys & covers & manifolds. wont be for a while yet as My new build isnt ready by a long shot lol

 

Rob is it not risky boring a 2.5 out ? does it not compromise the strength of the block? I thought this was the issue with the 2.5 to begin with or am I wrong

Sorry for sounding dumb mate, but to technical yet.

 

Not in any rush rob, warranty is till May but if the right thing came up at the right price then it's always a possibility to drop the remaing warranty. Keep me posted on your plans. Would need it fitting to if that's something you would consider if not no drama.

Good luck with your build, I've seen the list and it sounds like it's a good one

 

No issue at all to be honest. It's only 0.25 oversize piston.

The liners if not pegged or closed deck under very high boost can crack. Peg them of close them reduces the likelihood of this happening. Never had any issues with them. Couple of my builds now running around 500 with issue.

 

All this talk is making me want to screw the warranty and get cracking lol

Rob pinning the block, is that costly? Or cost effective route for added security and peace of mind?

Was contemplating swapping to a 2.0 and maybe going 2.1 but I love the grunt of the 2.5 bit like most am dubious of its reliability even if it's been forged I'm still wary it will go.

I know it's a how long is a piece of string subject but what's a fair shopping list for a forged 2.5 and what power will it take

Sorry for all the questions

 

You have PM

 

How many 2.5s have you rebuilt now Rob sounds like you are doing them on a regular basis. Does everyone go for more power or do some just have a forged engine but still to standard power?

I need to bite the bullet in early 2013 and get mine rebuilt with proper internals, warranty isn't up until July but I may just go for it

 

Ill drop you a pm mate with a shopping list, £170 to peg the block
Seems to hold 500 bhp without any issues to be honest.

Like I said my forged I'm running has been abused since day one and it's perfectly fine mate.

 

Quite allot this year perhaps 20 odd. some standard some forged

Most go for more power some just want a reliable standard car. Everyone's different.

 

Get a 2.35! Stronger than a 2.5 and a lot more go than a 2.0 or 2.1!!! Ultimate big boy lol haha

 

224 loving your style but I don't think my bank balance will be willing to get a proper 2.35 lol, would rather be a medium boy with cash in the bank hahaha

 

Cheers Rob, sounds like the pegging is worth it if it will help with 500/500 but to be fair I was only going to forge it and run the stock turbo, turn the boost up and run some more power until I wanted more so it would be nice to know it could take it so when the boredom kicked in and the funds allowed the internals were all in place ready to go. Thanks for your help

 

Hi everyone.
Just joined your gang by picking up my 59 plate 330s. Pics to follow soon!
Totally standard 330 spec currently, any advice on first modifications?

Thanks
Steve

 

H&s exhost to mack it sound right

 

Hi
Lovely car!
Some new pistons and a remap ASAP! Lol
Only joking ... Sort of......

 

welcome mate, get some pictures up great choice but i am slightly biassed.

as for mods





i would go for 19" GT2's, rally armor flaps, sti front lip, carbon grill, zun sport upper and lower grills, r205 fender trims, rear light masks but again that would just be me

 

oh and that(which i have fitted) sounds awesome. nice a low and quiet around town but then has a great deep growl when on the loud pedal

 

Does anyone know if there is a touch up colour they is a reasonable match for the 330s wheels? Have a couple of minor nicks to sort out and they're not worth a full refurb.
Thanks.