Be interesting to see a breakdown especially as its +VAT.

still £3000 when you take the vat into consideration, for £812 more i'll strip the whole thing machine the block & heads fit various other forged goodies too

£3000 for drop in pistons?!?! as Stan said a breakdown would be interesting.

Fair few miles on this one, wonder if the engine has seen any work???

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2008-SUBAR...item19c97c62a1

"Is £2500 a good price ?" for drop in pistons only ..... No.

"There are many after-market forged pistons available but they all use new piston rings, this means a complete engine strip down, re bore and hone to suit with a 1000 mile running in period and two oil changes before any tuning can be done, not ideal and very expensive"

I would 'much' prefer a complete strip, re-bore and hone which can be done comfortably for £ 2500....


Got a bit of a cold.... a... a... a... "Enginetuner" choo...

A

Hi,

just trying to help.

If you can get a full build for £2500.00 + vat then do it.

Cheers
Kev

Wow, that's cheap! 90K odd on the clock though but looks in really good shape. For that money it could be worth buying and doing an engine build ASAP for a cheap (£14K-ish) bulletproof hatch.

tow hooks?

anyone fitted one, with my front spliiter and lower bit, the front hook is way too high up inside the engine bay and will kill the splitters!!

I don't get what the issue is?

IIRC the idea is that you remove the fog light surround.

that was before fitting the lower mesh grille!!!

yep, mesh out, cover off, what a great bit design that is when your standing on the hard shoulder in the rain!

hence the need for a racing tow hook

I shall wave my magic wand & see whats what.

The following since new

STI oil Flush when New
front brake pads
Rear Shock absorber
Piston Ringland Fracture download
And issues removing swan neck towbar

No other issues, so it will be overdue an engine build from the ground up I reckon, But thats a steal at that price

rob there is hope for us with 50+k on clock if thats got 90k on lol

sets my mind at ease, plus our engines are sorted

Will these pistons be available without fitting? If so how much?

What other items are replaced for the £3000?

How can you guarantee the bores are not oval ?
Ive only ever seen 2 blocks that have been pretty much spot on and there both on here lol

Sincerely hoping mine's one of them!

indeed it is & Sparkeys

Didn't doubt it for a minute mate!

And while I've got your attention, seat rails, ahem, ahem, cough, cough . . . . .

oh **** yeah I'll get onto that tomorrow, cheers for the reminder

Good man, that's what I like to hear.

I should have the seats back from the trimmers at the end of this week and I've based the subframes on those rails.

I'll give you a call in a day or two, got some other interesting news for you.

ooo I like the sound of this

thats good to hear !!

i no since u did rebuild & andy worked his magic it goes spot on

my alloy (17" 2009 STi) wheel thread colour change is here...

https://www.scoobynet.com/wheels-tyr...eppermint.html

Well I've been a bit slack with mods to the hatch lately and this job is one I have been meaning to do since the day I got the car, its one of those silly things that has really been bugging me.

The paint on the door grab handles is useless and the previous owner must have had some big old rings on and has caused some decent sized scratches to them and I'm sure I have added to them over the last couple of years.

So have been planning to refurb and initial plan was to use vinyl but due to the deep hole it would have had to be done in 2 pieces so I set to work with some paints!

Some pics of the damage




Then set to work with the wet & dry to key the service and flattern the majority of the scratches and used some primer filler, the primer filler was so good it hardly needed cutting back at all and filled in all the marks on its own!


Best match paintwise I found was Ford Nimbus Grey, took a good few thinn coats to get into the deep bit but managed it in the end after about 5/8 coats without any runs.


This was then cut back with 1200 wet & dry

The 3/4 coats of lacquer




Between each stage they were left to dry for 24 hours.

So here is the drivers side all finished, I'm more than pleased with the results.



Now what to paint next......

Nice job mate! Must get around to doing mine, they're in a lot worse shape than yours were.

Anybody know how to get rid of scratches and scuffs on the main black part of the door card? Got a few of those as well including a really nasty one just below the door opening lever - that one really annoys me as I can see it all the time.

Cheers, Neil

Arron, can you keep us posted on how well they hold up please. My door release panels are currently covered in CF vinyl, but I was thinking of painting them to get a piano black look as I don't have the alacantra padding.

Hi,

we have a stand alone engine building shop, temperature controlled for measuring clearances etc. one of the first jobs would be to measure the bores, checking what size they are and if they have gone oval or ballooned in any way, if within tolerance we would go ahead with the correct size drop in pistons, if not its a full strip down, re bore and oversize pistons.

Cheers
Kev