NGK PFR7 spark plugs
#31
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I assume you are building a "Special", Big Power Unit.
This is quite a cold plug & if you ever run the engine without warming it up properly it will foul the plug and then fail to start the next time. You cannot clean these so you have to throw them away once fouled.
Phil
#33
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Just to add,
If you are fitting the cooler plugs to a classic import, then you ought to be using the PFR7G-11 & (then re-gapping to 0.6-0.7mm) not the "7B".
The G series plug is fitted as std from the factory on JDM cars & there have been cases of cars misfiring on the "7B" series & people having to go back to a 6B.
Phil
If you are fitting the cooler plugs to a classic import, then you ought to be using the PFR7G-11 & (then re-gapping to 0.6-0.7mm) not the "7B".
The G series plug is fitted as std from the factory on JDM cars & there have been cases of cars misfiring on the "7B" series & people having to go back to a 6B.
Phil
#34
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Just fitted a set of PFR7Bs yesterday on my Newage STI running a little over 400bhp and 1.6 bar of boost in the midrange. These were to replace the existing PFR7Bs that had worked really well but were due for replacement as they'd covered nearly 15,000 miles. The gap as standard on these is .80 and that's what I am using/have used successfully on both sets of plugs - I'm no expert, but I'm sure gapping down to .65 is unnecessary
#36
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I ordered PFR6B and got PFR7B.
have a my02 wrx, stock... is it ok to fit these plugs?
sorry for the question, but it's easier to fit the plugs lifting the car and go underneath it or should jut remove the air box and water reservoir and go above? thanks
have a my02 wrx, stock... is it ok to fit these plugs?
sorry for the question, but it's easier to fit the plugs lifting the car and go underneath it or should jut remove the air box and water reservoir and go above? thanks
#37
I did it by removing airbox and water bottle.Not that hard.
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