subaru powered mid engined mrk 6 black escort project
#181
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Not sure on that one James. Got the complete xmas week off from work so hopefully that will help. Deadline is 9th July 2008 when my Spyder is off to the 2008 Le Mans Classic.
Exhaust wise a Bellmouth flange , and 3" pipe straight to the rear with no exhaust box. OK only kidding on the no exhaust box bit, it'll have a box. Just trying to work out where it can go and how big.
Guy
Exhaust wise a Bellmouth flange , and 3" pipe straight to the rear with no exhaust box. OK only kidding on the no exhaust box bit, it'll have a box. Just trying to work out where it can go and how big.
Guy
#185
The only part i am in need of now is an expansion tank so if anyone has got one lying around..
#186
Awesome build so far and great fabrication work...........Just a shame its in an escort
I'm going to put a similar set up in this -
Am following with great interest.
I think the thing that I will struggle with most is the gear selector operation.
Is that set up, including cable, all home made or have you adapted an original?
Also, what do you have to do to a 4 wheel drive Legacy box to make it 2 wheel drive? Is it just a matter of blocking up the hole in the end where the propshaft used to go or is there more to it. Is so, what kit would I need and who to contact.
Would appreciate any help or advice you can give me.
I'm going to put a similar set up in this -
Am following with great interest.
I think the thing that I will struggle with most is the gear selector operation.
Is that set up, including cable, all home made or have you adapted an original?
Also, what do you have to do to a 4 wheel drive Legacy box to make it 2 wheel drive? Is it just a matter of blocking up the hole in the end where the propshaft used to go or is there more to it. Is so, what kit would I need and who to contact.
Would appreciate any help or advice you can give me.
#187
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Hi Dub Warrior.
If you take the time to look back through the previous pages of this thread James with the Escort, and myself with my 550 rep have posted a fair few photo's that may assist. The details of the kit to convert 4wd to 2wd have also been posted earlier but here they are again below.
bremar automotion :: subaru transaxle conversion
Drop Brett at Bremar an email and say Guy with the Spyder in the UK sent you
Note though Subaru box can not be reversed to put the engine at the rear of you van. If you want a mid-engine van no worries
Guy
If you take the time to look back through the previous pages of this thread James with the Escort, and myself with my 550 rep have posted a fair few photo's that may assist. The details of the kit to convert 4wd to 2wd have also been posted earlier but here they are again below.
bremar automotion :: subaru transaxle conversion
Drop Brett at Bremar an email and say Guy with the Spyder in the UK sent you
Note though Subaru box can not be reversed to put the engine at the rear of you van. If you want a mid-engine van no worries
Guy
#188
Hi mate thanks for that.
Trust me I have read this thread about 20 times cos it's masively inspirational.
I did struggle to find that gearbox modification company cos I was typing in the address as it is engraved on the cover, which doesn't work.
This will be definately on my shopping list, although I may just get the splined locking part and get a buddy to machine the cover for me.
Your work on the shifter looks great too. Is it an MR2 shifter that you have used or is that homemade too?
I take it that one cable pushes the selector rod in and out of the box, thus shifting between 1/3 and 2/4 and the second rotates it slightly, thus changing between 1/2 and 3/4 if that makes sense.
I bet this took the most planning and fabricating on the entire car.
Still excellant work and, when the time arrives, would you consider making a similar shift unit for me? for payment obviously!
Trust me I have read this thread about 20 times cos it's masively inspirational.
I did struggle to find that gearbox modification company cos I was typing in the address as it is engraved on the cover, which doesn't work.
This will be definately on my shopping list, although I may just get the splined locking part and get a buddy to machine the cover for me.
Your work on the shifter looks great too. Is it an MR2 shifter that you have used or is that homemade too?
I take it that one cable pushes the selector rod in and out of the box, thus shifting between 1/3 and 2/4 and the second rotates it slightly, thus changing between 1/2 and 3/4 if that makes sense.
I bet this took the most planning and fabricating on the entire car.
Still excellant work and, when the time arrives, would you consider making a similar shift unit for me? for payment obviously!
#189
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Yep the shifter James and I are using is "Mr 2" . Though there are a lot of cars now with cableshifters you could adapt.
The older Toyota ones are quite nice though as there is not much plastic in the frame that houses the lever. Found a very similar one in a friends Toyota HiAce/LiteAce van at the weekend, it was very similar to the MR2 with a longer lever. Celica's also have a nice one.
Just make sure you get the shifter bits from the gearbox, and the first few inches from the cables at the shifter for the fittings there.
Would rather not build a shift, too snowed under with current build, but happy to send any pics or dimensions.
Given that your motor is going in a Type 2, you may find it easier to use the current rod shift and route it under the engine and up to the rear.
The older Toyota ones are quite nice though as there is not much plastic in the frame that houses the lever. Found a very similar one in a friends Toyota HiAce/LiteAce van at the weekend, it was very similar to the MR2 with a longer lever. Celica's also have a nice one.
Just make sure you get the shifter bits from the gearbox, and the first few inches from the cables at the shifter for the fittings there.
Would rather not build a shift, too snowed under with current build, but happy to send any pics or dimensions.
Given that your motor is going in a Type 2, you may find it easier to use the current rod shift and route it under the engine and up to the rear.
#190
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To follow on from my comments above.
I see your bus is a split window so thus will have swing axle rear suspension. You would also need to convert the bus rear suspension to IRS to be able to use the Subaru box. My Spyder has same rear track width as a Type1 Beetle, and I had to get the driveshafts shortened as well. If the bus track width is similar to a bug you will need to get the driveshafts shortened.
I see your bus is a split window so thus will have swing axle rear suspension. You would also need to convert the bus rear suspension to IRS to be able to use the Subaru box. My Spyder has same rear track width as a Type1 Beetle, and I had to get the driveshafts shortened as well. If the bus track width is similar to a bug you will need to get the driveshafts shortened.
#193
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#194
Cheers SPYDER.
I could use the original gear rod I surpose. The front mechanism would need changing anyway to a 5 speed throw. I would also have to kick the rod over at the rear as it runs exactlt central through the van and the Scooby one looks to be offset on the rear of the gearbox.
I think I would struggle to route it under the engine, even with a lower sump fitted and don't wnat to fit the engine and box to high in the vehicle.
I was going to IRS all of the rear of the bus using bay window parts, ut decided it would be more cost effective to use as much Scooby bits as I can.
Rather that use the Legacy front suspension though, I will probably use the rear suspension as its a really nice simple 4 bar type set up. Also, rather than use the original coilover top mount, I'll probably use a fixed type mount.
I haven't measured things up yet but I may have to get the driveshafts shortened.
This is the basic chassis that I have to modify -
Will leave as much of the original chassis in as possible and try and fit the engine right between the rails taher than on top.
I could use the original gear rod I surpose. The front mechanism would need changing anyway to a 5 speed throw. I would also have to kick the rod over at the rear as it runs exactlt central through the van and the Scooby one looks to be offset on the rear of the gearbox.
I think I would struggle to route it under the engine, even with a lower sump fitted and don't wnat to fit the engine and box to high in the vehicle.
I was going to IRS all of the rear of the bus using bay window parts, ut decided it would be more cost effective to use as much Scooby bits as I can.
Rather that use the Legacy front suspension though, I will probably use the rear suspension as its a really nice simple 4 bar type set up. Also, rather than use the original coilover top mount, I'll probably use a fixed type mount.
I haven't measured things up yet but I may have to get the driveshafts shortened.
This is the basic chassis that I have to modify -
Will leave as much of the original chassis in as possible and try and fit the engine right between the rails taher than on top.
#195
On my old 911 the box nose's-up to the torsion tube, so i think you will need to cut the tube out of the bus to install a mid engined Impreza low in the chassis unless the Impreza box sits over the top of the tube to preserve the torsion tube which would be a shame.
If I understand you correctly, using the Imprza/Legacy rear suspension frame/arms etc and getting the gearbox in the right place will be impossible imho, hence the Escort using the entire front frame, just so easy.
Cut the torsion tube out, offer the Impreza front sub frame complete, square it all up in the 3 planes and fabricate the 'links' from subframe to Bus.
Most awkward part is the top mounts for the turret top mounts.
Just my thoughts.
Graham.
If I understand you correctly, using the Imprza/Legacy rear suspension frame/arms etc and getting the gearbox in the right place will be impossible imho, hence the Escort using the entire front frame, just so easy.
Cut the torsion tube out, offer the Impreza front sub frame complete, square it all up in the 3 planes and fabricate the 'links' from subframe to Bus.
Most awkward part is the top mounts for the turret top mounts.
Just my thoughts.
Graham.
Last edited by 911; 23 January 2008 at 08:17 AM.
#196
Think you have misunderstood me. I will try and retain as much of the original chassis as possible but anything in the way will be chopped out ie torsion bar housing. It may be simpler for me to just make a completely new chassis that ties in with the sills and front and rear body mounts.
I was planning on getting the engine and gearbox to fit as one unit with the scooby crossmember and then, with the drive shafts pretty central in the arches, building the suspension from there. I may end up not using the Scooby suspension as, like you said, getting the top mounts right will be a pig of a job.
The van is being built for comfort and relaibility hence not using a turbo motor and I want to keep it as simple as possible really (he says standing next to the most complicated wiring loom I have ever seen).
I may end up mixing and matching parts from many different cars.
Just at the planning and measuring stages at the moment. Work will commence again when funds and better weather arrive due to project being kept on drive.
I was planning on getting the engine and gearbox to fit as one unit with the scooby crossmember and then, with the drive shafts pretty central in the arches, building the suspension from there. I may end up not using the Scooby suspension as, like you said, getting the top mounts right will be a pig of a job.
The van is being built for comfort and relaibility hence not using a turbo motor and I want to keep it as simple as possible really (he says standing next to the most complicated wiring loom I have ever seen).
I may end up mixing and matching parts from many different cars.
Just at the planning and measuring stages at the moment. Work will commence again when funds and better weather arrive due to project being kept on drive.
#197
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Thinking laterally again, there is another line you could also pursue.
Given that mid mounted the engine would be coming into the rear passenger seating area on the van anyway. Convert the Subaru transaxle to rear drive, using a kit some of the drift guys use. Mount the engine and box tucked up behind the drivers seat, and mount the Subaru rear diff in place of the VW box, then have the propshaft shortened/lengthened to mate up. You would have to fit the later IRS Type2 rear suspension rather than swing axle, and convert the rear springing to coilovers but then you could just cut a hole in the centre of the rear torsion beam housing and feed the prop through that.
Actually using this method it doesn't matter what the rear diff came from You could use one from say a Sierra, Or even just convert the rear to take a live axle from say a Capri or whatever. This would mean the rear forward facing passenger seats could stay in place.
Given that mid mounted the engine would be coming into the rear passenger seating area on the van anyway. Convert the Subaru transaxle to rear drive, using a kit some of the drift guys use. Mount the engine and box tucked up behind the drivers seat, and mount the Subaru rear diff in place of the VW box, then have the propshaft shortened/lengthened to mate up. You would have to fit the later IRS Type2 rear suspension rather than swing axle, and convert the rear springing to coilovers but then you could just cut a hole in the centre of the rear torsion beam housing and feed the prop through that.
Actually using this method it doesn't matter what the rear diff came from You could use one from say a Sierra, Or even just convert the rear to take a live axle from say a Capri or whatever. This would mean the rear forward facing passenger seats could stay in place.
#198
Yeah, I understand what you are saying and did consider that option, but I want to keep as much space in the cab area as possible.
This link off the VWKD site shows what sort of thing I am after -
VWKD - VW Camper and Beetle Conversion from aircooled to watercooled
Using this sort of set up, I will possibly lose the rear seat but still be able to make a sleeping area over the top.
I will then fit a removeable forward facing row of seats behind the front seats, similar to a crew cab. I might not even fit rear seats at all.
I am not going to be fitting any daft cookers or sinks or anything.
Using the option that you suggested would be much easier to build and would allow me to use any engine. There are guys on the VOLKSZONE site building campers with rover v8s and even a 2 litre Mitsubishi turbo engine, in that format, but I just fancy using the compact Scooby unit.
This link off the VWKD site shows what sort of thing I am after -
VWKD - VW Camper and Beetle Conversion from aircooled to watercooled
Using this sort of set up, I will possibly lose the rear seat but still be able to make a sleeping area over the top.
I will then fit a removeable forward facing row of seats behind the front seats, similar to a crew cab. I might not even fit rear seats at all.
I am not going to be fitting any daft cookers or sinks or anything.
Using the option that you suggested would be much easier to build and would allow me to use any engine. There are guys on the VOLKSZONE site building campers with rover v8s and even a 2 litre Mitsubishi turbo engine, in that format, but I just fancy using the compact Scooby unit.
#199
Yeah, I understand what you are saying and did consider that option, but I want to keep as much space in the cab area as possible.
This link off the VWKD site shows what sort of thing I am after -
VWKD - VW Camper and Beetle Conversion from aircooled to watercooled
Using this sort of set up, I will possibly lose the rear seat but still be able to make a sleeping area over the top.
I will then fit a removeable forward facing row of seats behind the front seats, similar to a crew cab. I might not even fit rear seats at all.
I am not going to be fitting any daft cookers or sinks or anything.
Using the option that you suggested would be much easier to build and would allow me to use any engine. There are guys on the VOLKSZONE site building campers with rover v8s and even a 2 litre Mitsubishi turbo engine, in that format, but I just fancy using the compact Scooby unit.
This link off the VWKD site shows what sort of thing I am after -
VWKD - VW Camper and Beetle Conversion from aircooled to watercooled
Using this sort of set up, I will possibly lose the rear seat but still be able to make a sleeping area over the top.
I will then fit a removeable forward facing row of seats behind the front seats, similar to a crew cab. I might not even fit rear seats at all.
I am not going to be fitting any daft cookers or sinks or anything.
Using the option that you suggested would be much easier to build and would allow me to use any engine. There are guys on the VOLKSZONE site building campers with rover v8s and even a 2 litre Mitsubishi turbo engine, in that format, but I just fancy using the compact Scooby unit.
plus it would be more mid engine as oppose to rear engine.
could you not just fit the subaru engine to the vw transaxle using an adaptor plate and keep it simple?
james
#200
Hi mate i am still working on the escort i am just trying to get the engine fired up,i am working on the loom and running gear at the moment so its not worth taking any pics, hopefully it will be running by sunday if i can get hold of the last few parts i need.
james
#201
"could you not just fit the subaru engine to the vw transaxle using an adaptor plate and keep it simple?"
That was my original plan to the point where I bought an IRS beetle gearbox and complete later '68to '69 camper IRS suspension.
The problem was that the beetle gearbox in its standard for would never take the 140 bhp(?) from the engine and so it would cost me over a grand to get it rebuilt to a decent spec and I'd still only be left with 4 gears. A decent Porsche 915 box (used cos they still have a rod for changing gear) would cost over £1200 for a standard unit with no service history.
The suspension would probably need upgrading to Porsche 944 and then I'd need expensive custom coil overs making up and the chasiss would need modifying. The Porsche gearbox needs to sit approx 6 inches higher than the standard for the gearlinkage to work and.......etc etc
It was just more cost effective to buy a £350 Legacy and take as much as I could from it like you have.
I'm certainly not building the car for racing or going fast in, but feel that the mid engine set up would give the bus more balance and feel more stable.
Check these two projects out-
Mid mounted V8
Hotrod Splitty - VZi
Mid mounted Mitsubishi 2.0 turbo custom bay (awesome)
my custom bay panel van - VZi
Do you have the measurements for the engine crossmember to hand at all ie overall width, distance between bolt centres?
One of the parts I regretably sold.
That was my original plan to the point where I bought an IRS beetle gearbox and complete later '68to '69 camper IRS suspension.
The problem was that the beetle gearbox in its standard for would never take the 140 bhp(?) from the engine and so it would cost me over a grand to get it rebuilt to a decent spec and I'd still only be left with 4 gears. A decent Porsche 915 box (used cos they still have a rod for changing gear) would cost over £1200 for a standard unit with no service history.
The suspension would probably need upgrading to Porsche 944 and then I'd need expensive custom coil overs making up and the chasiss would need modifying. The Porsche gearbox needs to sit approx 6 inches higher than the standard for the gearlinkage to work and.......etc etc
It was just more cost effective to buy a £350 Legacy and take as much as I could from it like you have.
I'm certainly not building the car for racing or going fast in, but feel that the mid engine set up would give the bus more balance and feel more stable.
Check these two projects out-
Mid mounted V8
Hotrod Splitty - VZi
Mid mounted Mitsubishi 2.0 turbo custom bay (awesome)
my custom bay panel van - VZi
Do you have the measurements for the engine crossmember to hand at all ie overall width, distance between bolt centres?
One of the parts I regretably sold.
#202
"could you not just fit the subaru engine to the vw transaxle using an adaptor plate and keep it simple?"
That was my original plan to the point where I bought an IRS beetle gearbox and complete later '68to '69 camper IRS suspension.
The problem was that the beetle gearbox in its standard for would never take the 140 bhp(?) from the engine and so it would cost me over a grand to get it rebuilt to a decent spec and I'd still only be left with 4 gears. A decent Porsche 915 box (used cos they still have a rod for changing gear) would cost over £1200 for a standard unit with no service history.
The suspension would probably need upgrading to Porsche 944 and then I'd need expensive custom coil overs making up and the chasiss would need modifying. The Porsche gearbox needs to sit approx 6 inches higher than the standard for the gearlinkage to work and.......etc etc
It was just more cost effective to buy a £350 Legacy and take as much as I could from it like you have.
I'm certainly not building the car for racing or going fast in, but feel that the mid engine set up would give the bus more balance and feel more stable.
Check these two projects out-
Mid mounted V8
Hotrod Splitty - VZi
Mid mounted Mitsubishi 2.0 turbo custom bay (awesome)
my custom bay panel van - VZi
Do you have the measurements for the engine crossmember to hand at all ie overall width, distance between bolt centres?
One of the parts I regretably sold.
That was my original plan to the point where I bought an IRS beetle gearbox and complete later '68to '69 camper IRS suspension.
The problem was that the beetle gearbox in its standard for would never take the 140 bhp(?) from the engine and so it would cost me over a grand to get it rebuilt to a decent spec and I'd still only be left with 4 gears. A decent Porsche 915 box (used cos they still have a rod for changing gear) would cost over £1200 for a standard unit with no service history.
The suspension would probably need upgrading to Porsche 944 and then I'd need expensive custom coil overs making up and the chasiss would need modifying. The Porsche gearbox needs to sit approx 6 inches higher than the standard for the gearlinkage to work and.......etc etc
It was just more cost effective to buy a £350 Legacy and take as much as I could from it like you have.
I'm certainly not building the car for racing or going fast in, but feel that the mid engine set up would give the bus more balance and feel more stable.
Check these two projects out-
Mid mounted V8
Hotrod Splitty - VZi
Mid mounted Mitsubishi 2.0 turbo custom bay (awesome)
my custom bay panel van - VZi
Do you have the measurements for the engine crossmember to hand at all ie overall width, distance between bolt centres?
One of the parts I regretably sold.
Yeah i totally understand what you mean, you can buy a complete car for next to nothing and take what ever you need from it, sorted..
I dont have any measurements at hand but will be glad measure what you need tommorow after work.
james
#203
Cheers buddy would appreciate that.
How hard was it to make those rear shock towers? I imagine it helped having the similar towers in already. Were they out of alignment much?
Just realised that I have taken over the last page of your thread, sorry.
How hard was it to make those rear shock towers? I imagine it helped having the similar towers in already. Were they out of alignment much?
Just realised that I have taken over the last page of your thread, sorry.
#204
#207
My sketch was just the pick-up points for seeing if the whole concept was viable.
It was for this reason I suggested a whole front clip from the Impreza as the crossmember and gearbox members are all nice and flat and very easy to pick up. The only awkward bits are the rear lower wishbone mountings where the Anti lift kit parts are used, but Renn has that licked.
You could do with a replica of Ren''s subframe!
I'm all for hotrods, I built my first one in 1972, but is it really worth loosing much of the Campers space attributes by putting the engine so far in the 'cabin'?
Where the V8 is is great, but will kill the space once a bubble is over the engine and full of sound proofing.
The Impreza engine ahead of the axle line will be great and the Cof G will be so low, much like the VW boxer is.
I must stop reading these exploits, get me going again for Hot Rods!
It was for this reason I suggested a whole front clip from the Impreza as the crossmember and gearbox members are all nice and flat and very easy to pick up. The only awkward bits are the rear lower wishbone mountings where the Anti lift kit parts are used, but Renn has that licked.
You could do with a replica of Ren''s subframe!
I'm all for hotrods, I built my first one in 1972, but is it really worth loosing much of the Campers space attributes by putting the engine so far in the 'cabin'?
Where the V8 is is great, but will kill the space once a bubble is over the engine and full of sound proofing.
The Impreza engine ahead of the axle line will be great and the Cof G will be so low, much like the VW boxer is.
I must stop reading these exploits, get me going again for Hot Rods!
#208
As for the suspension towers,you would be better off cutting out the towers from the legacy or impreza that you buy and modding\welding them into the bus, you can just drill out the spot welds and knock them out.
Best way is to build up the scooby engine,box,suspension,hubs etc onto the subframe as a complete unit and offer it up to the bus so then you can see exactly what needs to do done.
James
#210
Have any of you doing this considered the sequential change unit that can be had from Saker? I've only got some preliminary details at the moment - emailed them for full details of what's involved!