subaru powered mid engined mrk 6 black escort project
30 June 2007, 07:22 PM
#153
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Hi James, got a 2005 Impreza WRX gearbox via a ebay bid last night, it came with driveshafts which I didn't expect. Spent today fitting the Saker conversion kit to make it 2wd, plus have trial fitted it to see where the problems are.
Main problem is I will need to section the DeDion tube in couple of place to ensure it does not clout the gearbox on full droop.
Currently two steps forward and one step back, but it's coming along slowly
Main problem is I will need to section the DeDion tube in couple of place to ensure it does not clout the gearbox on full droop.
Currently two steps forward and one step back, but it's coming along slowly
02 July 2007, 07:31 PM
#156
Alright Guy, good to see your project progressing, the gearbox does look a little close to the axle, will you be able to modify it? your drive shafts look different too, have they changed them on the later models? its a good job you got the shafts too then, i take it they will be the same on the hub side?
The engine and box look good in position..
James
The engine and box look good in position..
James
02 July 2007, 08:10 PM
#157
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The axle is at full drop position, when you measure the axle to chassis rails gap at this point it is almost the same as my mates who still has an alfa lump in his when his axle hits the box. The suspension hardly moves on the Spyder, and nothing a couple of bump stops won't cure.
The later boxes went to plug in driveshafts I think somewhere between 2003 and 2005. They driveshafts I have are far too long, plus I will have to mate to 100mm Lobro CV's at the outer end. What I will probably do is modify the Inner CV to take a flange to mount another 100mm Lobro CV too. But I will look for suitable driveshafts first.
Found without the splined driveshafts spigots to lock too I had to remove the centre diff housing to remove that locknut to fit the Saker spline locker. Was easy doing it that way
too. Had to open out the cover plate holes a tad too, but as it is just a cover plate I am not worried.
Trying to work out a way of fitting gearbox mount which doesn't fit directly under the box.
Current headscratcher is the clutch slave cylinder, the bleed nipple end of it will want to sit where the axle is. Several options on this, trying to think through what may happen in each scenario
Guy
The later boxes went to plug in driveshafts I think somewhere between 2003 and 2005. They driveshafts I have are far too long, plus I will have to mate to 100mm Lobro CV's at the outer end. What I will probably do is modify the Inner CV to take a flange to mount another 100mm Lobro CV too. But I will look for suitable driveshafts first.
Found without the splined driveshafts spigots to lock too I had to remove the centre diff housing to remove that locknut to fit the Saker spline locker. Was easy doing it that way
too. Had to open out the cover plate holes a tad too, but as it is just a cover plate I am not worried.
Trying to work out a way of fitting gearbox mount which doesn't fit directly under the box.
Current headscratcher is the clutch slave cylinder, the bleed nipple end of it will want to sit where the axle is. Several options on this, trying to think through what may happen in each scenario
Guy
Last edited by Spyder550; 02 July 2007 at 08:20 PM. Reason: add additional text
03 July 2007, 07:27 AM
#158
Why not bring the gearbox mount straight off the custom back plate you have used for the 2WD conversion?
You could weld a rubber/poly bush mounting to it and the rear cross member/
The early 911's have a very useful rear box mount with 2 large rubber mounts on a steel frame about 400mm wide iirc.I bet a VW is the same.
Easy to get second-hand.
The slave rod/cylinder is a tricky one from what I can see, but do you need all that droop? Can you limit the droop to allow the slave to tuck under the beam?
Both of these projects are great, and a credit to you all. Most interesting.
You could weld a rubber/poly bush mounting to it and the rear cross member/
The early 911's have a very useful rear box mount with 2 large rubber mounts on a steel frame about 400mm wide iirc.I bet a VW is the same.
Easy to get second-hand.
The slave rod/cylinder is a tricky one from what I can see, but do you need all that droop? Can you limit the droop to allow the slave to tuck under the beam?
Both of these projects are great, and a credit to you all. Most interesting.
04 July 2007, 09:21 PM
#159
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Why not bring the gearbox mount straight off the custom back plate you have used for the 2WD conversion?
You could weld a rubber/poly bush mounting to it and the rear cross member/
The early 911's have a very useful rear box mount with 2 large rubber mounts on a steel frame about 400mm wide iirc.I bet a VW is the same.
Easy to get second-hand.
The slave rod/cylinder is a tricky one from what I can see, but do you need all that droop? Can you limit the droop to allow the slave to tuck under the beam?
Both of these projects are great, and a credit to you all. Most interesting.
You could weld a rubber/poly bush mounting to it and the rear cross member/
The early 911's have a very useful rear box mount with 2 large rubber mounts on a steel frame about 400mm wide iirc.I bet a VW is the same.
Easy to get second-hand.
The slave rod/cylinder is a tricky one from what I can see, but do you need all that droop? Can you limit the droop to allow the slave to tuck under the beam?
Both of these projects are great, and a credit to you all. Most interesting.
Not too worried about the box mount I try and get a used mount to cut up and reshape, it's the steel bit that bolts to the box that is of most use
Another shot from my phone shows the lack of slave cylinder clearance. Should be able to find a slave cylinder on ebay which doesn't have a nipple sticking out the back, which I can fit to a bracket
05 July 2007, 03:56 PM
#161
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hey there, i have just read your entire post, most impressed,
i dont know if you will need one, but i have an alloy fuel swirl pot if you need it, i bought it for a project that never transpired, if you and it, its urs for a decent drink and postage?
pm me if u want pics?
cheers
chris
i dont know if you will need one, but i have an alloy fuel swirl pot if you need it, i bought it for a project that never transpired, if you and it, its urs for a decent drink and postage?
pm me if u want pics?
cheers
chris
07 August 2007, 10:07 AM
#167
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[QUOTE=911;7166227]Clutch slave worked out ok in the end then?
QUOTE]
I used a clutch slave cylinder from a late model non-turbo 2.5, it's also used on some Nissans. I cut down an old turbo slave cylinder and welded a plate to it to mount the new slave cylinder on. Also I had to shorten the push rod down, and grind some material off the back of the slave cylinder around the bleed and feed areas.
QUOTE]
I used a clutch slave cylinder from a late model non-turbo 2.5, it's also used on some Nissans. I cut down an old turbo slave cylinder and welded a plate to it to mount the new slave cylinder on. Also I had to shorten the push rod down, and grind some material off the back of the slave cylinder around the bleed and feed areas.
12 August 2007, 12:06 AM
#170
I've had similar mid engined plans for years...which all started the day I offered up a spare Sti 4 engine to my '68 mini 
One day when I've finished the Scoob, the Landy and the Sunbeam Alpine I'll get myself a Mini pick up and get on with the plan 
One day when I've finished the Scoob, the Landy and the Sunbeam Alpine I'll get myself a Mini pick up and get on with the plan
15 December 2007, 11:05 PM
#172
James
15 December 2007, 11:19 PM
#173
Heres a few pics i took just before i started the house.
i fitted the boost pack,fuel filter,maf, fuel lines and started to plumb in the brakes pipes including a bias adjuster,coolent pipes etc...
i fitted the boost pack,fuel filter,maf, fuel lines and started to plumb in the brakes pipes including a bias adjuster,coolent pipes etc...
Last edited by rentonone; 25 January 2008 at 07:16 PM.
16 December 2007, 09:48 AM
#176
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Coming along slower than intended then James I know that feeling
Finished or just about the cable shifter, seems to work pretty sweet if I do say so myself. As much as gear linkage operated by 8ft of cables can
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ideviewbox.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...earviewbox.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ey/shifter.jpg
Currently working on the coolant circuit, unfortunately like the shifter stuff it's time consuming, and I only get a day or so week to work on it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...key/850fan.jpg
Driveshafts are away to be resplined, hopefully get them back in the new year.
Just so damned cold in my lockup now, didn't help yesterday when I drilled the tip of my finger
Guy
Finished or just about the cable shifter, seems to work pretty sweet if I do say so myself. As much as gear linkage operated by 8ft of cables can
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ideviewbox.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...earviewbox.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ey/shifter.jpg
Currently working on the coolant circuit, unfortunately like the shifter stuff it's time consuming, and I only get a day or so week to work on it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...key/850fan.jpg
Driveshafts are away to be resplined, hopefully get them back in the new year.
Just so damned cold in my lockup now, didn't help yesterday when I drilled the tip of my finger
Guy
Last edited by Spyder550; 16 December 2007 at 09:51 AM. Reason: bad link
16 December 2007, 12:52 PM
#177
LOL at the hole in finger bit!
Those were the days...sometimes you get so cold the pain takes some time to hit you.
Where will you get the air flow from/to for the front rad? The 356 is lacking many oppertunities for the 'air-in' side?
Two great projects!
Graham.
Those were the days...sometimes you get so cold the pain takes some time to hit you.
Where will you get the air flow from/to for the front rad? The 356 is lacking many oppertunities for the 'air-in' side?
Two great projects!
Graham.
16 December 2007, 07:26 PM
#178
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Graham, Mine's 550 Spyder rather than 356, so it comes with a multi-slotted intake on the underside of the nose. I may reshape the intake and remove the slots. (The original 550's did both styles). The intake will be sealed so air wise what ends up in the front has to go out via the rad. Also as I have no need of a heater, I may also use the heater circuit to plumb in a bike rad, or oversize heater matrix as additional cooling.