Who runs big brake kits here.
changed mine before WRC last year to RBF600.. about time for a change too... 
10 January 2007, 04:05 PM
#66
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No mate, no show discs, just EBC non drilled non grooved discs, they were installed just before The ring trip last year (along with my gearbox
)Also had yellow stuff pads fitted, that have only just been replaced, so the discs lasted through one set of pads and thats it
10 January 2007, 04:26 PM
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How DO you actually change the brake fluid.
Also whats involved with the bleeding of new fluid.
I have never done anything like this, due to the importance of getting it right first time
Also whats involved with the bleeding of new fluid.
I have never done anything like this, due to the importance of getting it right first time
)
10 January 2007, 04:48 PM
#73
lol
Its easy mate,
Use a seringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible.
Top up with new fresh fluid. Then working from back to front ie do the rears first.
Place a transparant hose over the bleed nipple on the caliper that drains into a container (small coke bollte works fine), then get someone else to pump the pedal down as you crack the nipple off with a ring spanner, then nip it up and let them release the brake pedal.
Keep doing this.. the idea being that the nipple is only open when under pressure. Continue this step until the fluid coming out is clean and free of any air bubbles.
Top up with new fliud as the level drops in the reservoir.
Repeat this step for the rears and then the fronts.
Ensure you top up the levels when finished and have a nice firm pedal feel.
Clean any spillages with cold water imediately
Last edited by frayz; 10 January 2007 at 04:53 PM.
10 January 2007, 04:50 PM
#74
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I can tell you but in your case id take it somewhere to avoid certain death if you funk it up.. pmsl
lol
Its easy mate,
Use a seringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible.
Top up with new fresh fluid. Then working from back to front ie do the rears first.
Place a hose over the bleed nipple on the caliper, then get someone else to pump the pedal down as you crack the nipple off with a ring spanner, then nip it up and let them release the brake pedal.
Keep doing this.. the idea being that the nipple is only open when under pressure. Continue this step until the fluid coming out is clean and free of any air bubbles.
Top up with new fliud as the level drops in the reservoir.
Repeat this step for the rears and then the fronts.
Ensure you top up the levels when finished and have a nice firm pedal feel.
Clean any spillages with cold water imediately
lol
Its easy mate,
Use a seringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible.
Top up with new fresh fluid. Then working from back to front ie do the rears first.
Place a hose over the bleed nipple on the caliper, then get someone else to pump the pedal down as you crack the nipple off with a ring spanner, then nip it up and let them release the brake pedal.
Keep doing this.. the idea being that the nipple is only open when under pressure. Continue this step until the fluid coming out is clean and free of any air bubbles.
Top up with new fliud as the level drops in the reservoir.
Repeat this step for the rears and then the fronts.
Ensure you top up the levels when finished and have a nice firm pedal feel.
Clean any spillages with cold water imediately
Does it not matter that the new fluid will mix with the small amount left in the res'
Also if i was to remove callipes, say to change them, is the process the same
10 January 2007, 04:56 PM
#75
No it doenst matter if a small amount mixes as the idea being that if you follow the correct procedure the little bit of old fluid will be flushed out when bleeding.
Removal of the calipers is fine and yes the procedure is the same. It will take a little longer and you will use more fluid when bleeding after a caliper change as there will be more air in the system... but essentially its the same.
Also ensure to cap off any hoses or fluid ways when removed to ensure no contamination of the system.
Removal of the calipers is fine and yes the procedure is the same. It will take a little longer and you will use more fluid when bleeding after a caliper change as there will be more air in the system... but essentially its the same.
Also ensure to cap off any hoses or fluid ways when removed to ensure no contamination of the system.
11 January 2007, 08:26 AM
#78
Performance Friction Discs and Performance Friction z rated Pads are now on the car thanks to Gary and Chris at AP Tuning (APT - Performance tuning specialists in Norwich - With Dyno Dynamics Rolling Road) . Zen Performance supplied the discs/pads. ( Zen Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars ) They make it look really simple to undo the caliper bolts..... I must have loosened them 
Sorry the pics are a bit blurry - camera phone
==============================
First Impressions:
First junction... where's my f**king brakes !!!
But no probs - changing all pads and front discs takes a while to bed in.
The drive through the narrow lanes down to Snetterton were fun and each time the brakes were used they started to get better - obviously wearing the gloss off the discs and the bedding them in.
There is a proper bedding in procedure that I will be following today to get them working beautifully. They dont work as well cold as the ferodo ds2500 but I am fine with that, and after a couple of applications will be at the same levels of friction. I have been told that they will work great hot too - will have to give them a good try out at Snetterton in feb (if not before )
Sorry the pics are a bit blurry - camera phone
==============================
First Impressions:
First junction... where's my f**king brakes !!!
But no probs - changing all pads and front discs takes a while to bed in.
The drive through the narrow lanes down to Snetterton were fun and each time the brakes were used they started to get better - obviously wearing the gloss off the discs and the bedding them in.
There is a proper bedding in procedure that I will be following today to get them working beautifully. They dont work as well cold as the ferodo ds2500 but I am fine with that, and after a couple of applications will be at the same levels of friction. I have been told that they will work great hot too - will have to give them a good try out at Snetterton in feb (if not before
)
11 January 2007, 06:56 PM
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