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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:24 PM
  #61  
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new RBF600 fluid in mine today

most brake fade is the fluid boiling rather than the pads

Cookstar - were those discs drilled?
If so that is why they cracked - drilled discs are more of a show and shine thing
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:11 PM
  #62  
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RBF600 is the nuts Dunc.. you'll be suprised at the change in feel afterwards.
Although the stuff that came out was pretty minging lol... i think that had alot to do with it too
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:20 PM
  #63  
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been running rbf600 for a while now - it is good stuff. Just got some fresh stuff going in
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #64  
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changed mine before WRC last year to RBF600.. about time for a change too... must change the oil, G/B oil and B/F again....
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:23 PM
  #65  
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Dont forget to keep me posted on the PF discs..
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by dynamix
new RBF600 fluid in mine today

most brake fade is the fluid boiling rather than the pads

Cookstar - were those discs drilled?
If so that is why they cracked - drilled discs are more of a show and shine thing

No mate, no show discs, just EBC non drilled non grooved discs, they were installed just before The ring trip last year (along with my gearbox )

Also had yellow stuff pads fitted, that have only just been replaced, so the discs lasted through one set of pads and thats it
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:06 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Milamber
heard about those too, can't believe they make that much difference though to be honest. How much out of interest.


About £30 from EBAY
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:22 PM
  #68  
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Given Frayz' comments and thinking of the extra weight I'll give them a miss
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:25 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by cookstar
About £30 from EBAY
Ahh a tenner for some fluid and £20 buys you a lap of the ring and a coffee from the restaraunt

Money well spent
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:26 PM
  #70  
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How DO you actually change the brake fluid.

Also whats involved with the bleeding of new fluid.

I have never done anything like this, due to the importance of getting it right first time
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #71  
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Group buy on Frayz changing our fluids (ooh er )
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:34 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Milamber
Group buy on Frayz changing our fluids (ooh er )

pmsl
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:48 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by cookstar
How DO you actually change the brake fluid.

Also whats involved with the bleeding of new fluid.

I have never done anything like this, due to the importance of getting it right first time
I can tell you but in your case id take it somewhere to avoid certain death if you funk it up.. pmsl

lol

Its easy mate,

Use a seringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible.

Top up with new fresh fluid. Then working from back to front ie do the rears first.

Place a transparant hose over the bleed nipple on the caliper that drains into a container (small coke bollte works fine), then get someone else to pump the pedal down as you crack the nipple off with a ring spanner, then nip it up and let them release the brake pedal.

Keep doing this.. the idea being that the nipple is only open when under pressure. Continue this step until the fluid coming out is clean and free of any air bubbles.

Top up with new fliud as the level drops in the reservoir.

Repeat this step for the rears and then the fronts.

Ensure you top up the levels when finished and have a nice firm pedal feel.

Clean any spillages with cold water imediately

Last edited by frayz; Jan 10, 2007 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:50 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by frayz
I can tell you but in your case id take it somewhere to avoid certain death if you funk it up.. pmsl

lol

Its easy mate,

Use a seringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible.

Top up with new fresh fluid. Then working from back to front ie do the rears first.

Place a hose over the bleed nipple on the caliper, then get someone else to pump the pedal down as you crack the nipple off with a ring spanner, then nip it up and let them release the brake pedal.

Keep doing this.. the idea being that the nipple is only open when under pressure. Continue this step until the fluid coming out is clean and free of any air bubbles.

Top up with new fliud as the level drops in the reservoir.

Repeat this step for the rears and then the fronts.

Ensure you top up the levels when finished and have a nice firm pedal feel.

Clean any spillages with cold water imediately

Does it not matter that the new fluid will mix with the small amount left in the res'

Also if i was to remove callipes, say to change them, is the process the same
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:56 PM
  #75  
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No it doenst matter if a small amount mixes as the idea being that if you follow the correct procedure the little bit of old fluid will be flushed out when bleeding.

Removal of the calipers is fine and yes the procedure is the same. It will take a little longer and you will use more fluid when bleeding after a caliper change as there will be more air in the system... but essentially its the same.

Also ensure to cap off any hoses or fluid ways when removed to ensure no contamination of the system.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:58 PM
  #76  
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Good stuff.

And maybe thinking of installing my big brake kit when i finally decide which one,
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 07:43 PM
  #77  
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That reminds me......still got my braided hoses to go on!
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:26 AM
  #78  
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Performance Friction Discs and Performance Friction z rated Pads are now on the car thanks to Gary and Chris at AP Tuning (APT - Performance tuning specialists in Norwich - With Dyno Dynamics Rolling Road) . Zen Performance supplied the discs/pads. ( Zen Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars ) They make it look really simple to undo the caliper bolts..... I must have loosened them





Sorry the pics are a bit blurry - camera phone


==============================
First Impressions:

First junction... where's my f**king brakes !!!
But no probs - changing all pads and front discs takes a while to bed in.

The drive through the narrow lanes down to Snetterton were fun and each time the brakes were used they started to get better - obviously wearing the gloss off the discs and the bedding them in.

There is a proper bedding in procedure that I will be following today to get them working beautifully. They dont work as well cold as the ferodo ds2500 but I am fine with that, and after a couple of applications will be at the same levels of friction. I have been told that they will work great hot too - will have to give them a good try out at Snetterton in feb (if not before )
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:28 AM
  #79  
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They look big, are they the standard size?
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:31 AM
  #80  
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yep

proper brakes - AP 6 pot or 4 pot not required as yet.... these will be more than up to the job I reckon for my track work
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by dynamix
yep

proper brakes - AP 6 pot or 4 pot not required as yet.... these will be more than up to the job I reckon for my track work
I'm sure you'll push them brembo's to the limit!!!!!

I still need to decide what pads to run as my track pads..... decisions, decisiosn
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:10 AM
  #82  
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pagid orange
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:46 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by dynamix
pagid orange
You'd recommend these then?
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:53 AM
  #84  
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nice colour

I havent run them Mike lol
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:02 AM
  #85  
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seriously though, the RS-19 comes highly recommended for lots of track work or the RS4-4 (orange)
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by dynamix
seriously though, the RS-19 comes highly recommended for lots of track work or the RS4-4 (orange)
I like pagids i must admit..... i will make a few calls and see what i can find!
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 06:56 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by frayz
Also how often the fluid is changed makes a big diference. My oil gets changed evey 3 months regardless and brake fluid every 6 months.. sometimes sooner if the car has been subjected to a bit of abuse
Zak's changing mine next week along with a 40K service, but interestingly, I've just gone back through my previous service invoices to see how long it was since my last fluid change and I can't see this EVER being changed before - if it has, I don't seem to have been charged for any fluid........
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