Who runs big brake kits here.
09 January 2007, 08:26 AM
#33
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Were you ever unhappy with your 4 pots though, did they ever fade on you. You may be better just upgrading the pads unless you had isues with heat.
Adding weight is something to be avoided if at all possible, thats why (I think) Frayz is running 17 inch tyres on track days rather than the 18's it normallly wears....
Adding weight is something to be avoided if at all possible, thats why (I think) Frayz is running 17 inch tyres on track days rather than the 18's it normallly wears....
09 January 2007, 10:43 AM
#34
Were you ever unhappy with your 4 pots though, did they ever fade on you. You may be better just upgrading the pads unless you had isues with heat.
Adding weight is something to be avoided if at all possible, thats why (I think) Frayz is running 17 inch tyres on track days rather than the 18's it normallly wears....
Adding weight is something to be avoided if at all possible, thats why (I think) Frayz is running 17 inch tyres on track days rather than the 18's it normallly wears....
Actuallyi use the 17s are for a few reasons,
a) The scoob handles better on 17s over 18s, this imo is mainly due to tyre choice. Proper track tyres by design have a higher profile sidewall. On a road car you cant run good big profile track tyres on 18 wheels due to physical space.. on the WRC car you can due to massive arches etc.
b)You have much more tyre choice on 17" rubber than you do 18" (RE070 Bridgestones only come in 17") Not to mention the cost of 17" tyres over more expensive 18" versions.
c) As Milamber mentions, weight. Now in all honesty my 18" Speedlines are much ligher that that of my stock 17s. But in reality if i was using the same rims then the smaller one would be lighter.
I also dont fancy putting £1200 worth of speedlines up the curbs or in the gravel trap
Like i said these are just options for you to weigh up
I dont doubt someone will acuse me of being rude and abusive again but hey..
09 January 2007, 11:30 AM
#35
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If you were to keep the original calipers but upgrade the pads AND switch to 16 inch wheels you would find, I am sure, that your driving experience on a track day would actually improve. Less unsprung weight to turn into a corner. In reality 17's are a decent compromise but you may be better just buying lighter wheels - seriously...
09 January 2007, 11:32 AM
#36
If you were to keep the original calipers but upgrade the pads AND switch to 16 inch wheels you would find, I am sure, that your driving experience on a track day would actually improve. Less unsprung weight to turn into a corner. In reality 17's are a decent compromise but you may be better just buying lighter wheels - seriously...
I cant get 16s on mate
09 January 2007, 12:15 PM
#39
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No, talking to Cookie you rude and abusive b'stard
16's are best but as I said most people won't be able to fit them. If Cookie is upgrading then I'm just trying to let him know that he should keep his options open, bigger isn't always best as you've been saying in relation to the aftermarket intercoolers.
09 January 2007, 12:54 PM
#43
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Were you ever unhappy with your 4 pots though, did they ever fade on you. You may be better just upgrading the pads unless you had isues with heat.
Adding weight is something to be avoided if at all possible, thats why (I think) Frayz is running 17 inch tyres on track days rather than the 18's it normallly wears....
Adding weight is something to be avoided if at all possible, thats why (I think) Frayz is running 17 inch tyres on track days rather than the 18's it normallly wears....
Yep been unhappy with my 4 pots many times, get fade a lot, hated them on track, even with brand new yellow stuff pads and ebc disc, one lap of the ring and they faded away, i have heat cracking on my discs.
And that was with me not the quickest/hardest driver round there AT ALL.
I just want something that i will never hard enought to fade, so maybe the 6 pot are overkill, but better to have too much than not enough IMO when it come to brakes
09 January 2007, 01:10 PM
#44
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Doesn't surprise me 
and thats where braking confidence comes into the equasion, it doesn't matter that another product is better if it doesn't give you the confidence to "go in harder and deeper" 
as they say
Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the options my man it's not my money at the end of the day
as they say Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the options my man it's not my money at the end of the day
09 January 2007, 01:14 PM
#45
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Cheers, well it looks like i wont be able to ge t them for at least another month, especially with a few other planned things 
eating away at my money. In fact a huge box has just been delivered 
So plenty of time to take my time and decide, I have bee promised a drive in someones car that has the same power as im going for, he also has some rather tasty brakes so will be nice to actually feel what they are like first hand.
eating away at my money. In fact a huge box has just been delivered So plenty of time to take my time and decide, I have bee promised a drive in someones car that has the same power as im going for, he also has some rather tasty brakes so will be nice to actually feel what they are like first hand.
09 January 2007, 01:27 PM
#46
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Continuing on the braking theme...
I've been driving a hire car for the last week whilst my scooby gets worked on...
The first thing I noticed was I nearly went through the screen when I applied the same force required to stop as in my Terzo?
I work in the automotive industry so understand that a 2006 car should have better brake technology than my 1998, but most cars today still run 2 pots frt, so is there anyway to get my std 4 pots biting a bit better?
Currently running std discs and pads with 5 Dot fluid, thinking about switching to braided hose and yellow pads?
Will this help get that quicker reaction I'm looking for?
I've been driving a hire car for the last week whilst my scooby gets worked on...
The first thing I noticed was I nearly went through the screen when I applied the same force required to stop as in my Terzo?
I work in the automotive industry so understand that a 2006 car should have better brake technology than my 1998, but most cars today still run 2 pots frt, so is there anyway to get my std 4 pots biting a bit better?
Currently running std discs and pads with 5 Dot fluid, thinking about switching to braided hose and yellow pads?
Will this help get that quicker reaction I'm looking for?
09 January 2007, 01:34 PM
#47
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personally would not have EBC again, they do not honour their warrenty, my discs (EBC) lasted 6 months and they are fooked, with loads of cracks.
Have DS2500 pads now and they are great.
Have loads more bite than oe pads, a lot of people are using them at them mo mate, also have braided hoses which improve things
Have DS2500 pads now and they are great.
Have loads more bite than oe pads, a lot of people are using them at them mo mate, also have braided hoses which improve things
09 January 2007, 10:26 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by Milamber
it doesn't matter that another product is better if it doesn't give you the confidence to "go in harder and deeper" as they say
as they say 
But I can see where you are coming from & I am sure this will cover the above nicely.
Mark
09 January 2007, 10:59 PM
#54
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Well if my missus put a calliper on my carbon bonnet she would get a slap, even if it really really was her.....
09 January 2007, 11:26 PM
#55
Bilbo boy,
The reason the newer cars brake so hard with such little effort is that they are massively over servo'd. This is great for stopping quickly without effort but they will lack good feel and would be awful if really pushed hard on track etc.
Basiscally.. brakes designed for ya nan, easy to use.. work well for the shops
10 January 2007, 07:17 AM
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The reason the newer cars brake so hard with such little effort is that they are massively over servo'd. This is great for stopping quickly without effort but they will lack good feel and would be awful if really pushed hard on track etc.
Basiscally.. brakes designed for ya nan, easy to use.. work well for the shops
Must get new pads!!!!
10 January 2007, 12:20 PM
#60
Its designed to stop the bulkhead flexing under hard braking.
On a classic, it might make about 1% difference.. but a newage shell is 250% stiffer than that of the classic.. so personally i think its just a bit of a gimmick.
Personally i think a bottle of decent brake fluid such as Motul RBF600 would be a better buy.
Also how often the fluid is changed makes a big diference. My oil gets changed evey 3 months regardless and brake fluid every 6 months.. sometimes sooner if the car has been subjected to a bit of abuse
On a classic, it might make about 1% difference.. but a newage shell is 250% stiffer than that of the classic.. so personally i think its just a bit of a gimmick.
Personally i think a bottle of decent brake fluid such as Motul RBF600 would be a better buy.
Also how often the fluid is changed makes a big diference. My oil gets changed evey 3 months regardless and brake fluid every 6 months.. sometimes sooner if the car has been subjected to a bit of abuse