David its looking good, you can always use the same colour as mine

 

LOL,

Drb, not sure about inital weight, aiming for a target weight of around 1000kgs or near with the cage.

Bought a PPG kit with billet forks yesterday

David

 

stripped the gearbox casing I had but looks like it may be scrap as where the selector rods sit is damaged.. might see if can clean it up, if not I may be able to weld it and have it line bored.

David

 

Cheers David. Very interested how close to 1000kgs you can get to with the wagon, especially with cage inside.

 

me too.. I suspect no where near!

900kgs might be closer

If its gonna be at the shootout, its not going to be lightweight though!

David

 

You've still got area's you can lose weight from??


I was actually wondering the other day, if the extra weight of the wagon, would help it on track/strip?

 

What is the quoted weight?

 

Obviously depending on what year, the wagon is ment to be 35 kilos more than saloon.

Seen an early saloon was 1235kgs...wagon 1270. If that is true, then most of it must be in the strengthening of the shell, cause the back window itself must be a fair bit smaller in the wagon than saloon and as you know, they ain't light!

 

Hi david,
would i be right in saying u make your own exhausts and incooler piping?
if so where do u buy your stainless steel pipes?
and how do you bend them?
I have a pipe bender its sort of a hydrolic jack and clamp, on a tripod jobbie, its great for making roll bars for pick-ups (i've made loads of these).
but i can see intercooler tubing being flatened with it.
i supose i could make the bends in a down pipe if i used a long lenth and bent it in the middle.
I remember hearing from a friend that to bend exhaust pipes you need to put a spring inside, can you shed any light on the subject?

 

Riosingh..

sorry wrote a long reply and it fooked off.

Yes, but out of ally and mild steel
Try All stainless - www.google.com and www.rswww.com as the do stainless bends.

Hydraulic benders wont bend, other option is a crush bender or mandrel bender

Or fill it with sand and heat it red hot and then bend it and hammmer it a lot.. ie forget that!

anyway..

Door bars, tacked in


Other door bars tacked in


Another un photogenic weld..


dash bar propped in place.. and front triangulation


front foot well, "scotchbrite'd" with thinners, ready for a bit of welding and primer.


Rear shot, ooo err.

 

paint weekend and next week hopefully.. job interview tomorrow too.

David

 

Looks , are you gonna remove all of the red paint from the inside? and should you not be getting ready for the interview? Good luck with it..

 

Good luck with the interview

Enjoy sanding the shell down, it's a lovely job

 

good luck with interview!

 

I dont need to prep for an interview, If I dont know it, I dont say it..

I dont do bull****

Removing red is all well and good, but why would you want to, I can just prep the loose stuff, etch prime the bare metal etc, and then give it a coat of 2k white primer and then 2 coats of colour on the inside and then 3 - 4 if I can be arsed on the outside..

As for dents, **** em, im not spending ages on the ripples etc.. they will have to stay

David

 

it will only be rippled again in a month or so even if you do.. bloody tin foil panels!

 

I've been following this project recently ( new member), good stuff David.

As a bodyshop lad myself, may I offer a small bit of advice when it comes to painting the inside of you car..?
Don't know what colour you're going to be painting it, but it's sometimes easier to paint in a 2 stage process..

ie: Use a base coat for the colour, so you can get EVERYWHERE with the colour, and then just give it 2 coats of lacquer (or 2k top coat if a solid colour)for the gloss where you can get to easiest.

This way at least everywhere is in colour, and the bits that are important, have got a good finish

Or am I wasting my time because you already knew that

Anyway, looking forward to seeing it later in the year.
Neil...

 

Neil, the final colour is a basecoat anyway..


I was thinking of spraying a very fine coat to do all the awkward places first, IE to get the coverage and then going for it on the bits that matter if that makes sense? Any advice is appreciated

As for the rust under the bonnet

David

 

David, exactly what colour are you painting the car?

Neil...

 

Million dollar question that?

 

Its not up for public discussion.

Drop me a mail or PM.

David

 

Fair enough.....

OK here goes my advice for painting the inside of your car, in a shed/workshop without usual paint shop facilities....

1. If it is going to be either metallic, pearl/mica, or solid colour (ie red,white, etc..) then my advice would be to etch any bare metal and then high build prime(2k) any areas that may need it ie: where its been sanded with any coarser than 400's grit paper.

2. Once this has cured (overnight is fine), flat as usual (600's) and clean.

3. Now, the painting bit.
If its solid colour, first use a basecoat (in correct colour)to get everywhere covered.
Then for the gloss/top finish coat use solid top coat (2k, correct colour) for the shiny bits.

If its metallic/pearl/mica, same process, but use clear lacquer (2k) for final coat.

Once lacquered/top coated, get some fade out thinner (available in an aerosol, sometimes used by 'smart repairers') and go round any 'dry' or 'peely' areas. This reduces the effect, and is easily polished afterwards to a nice gloss.

The reason for this is, if you were using the top coat as you say, ie a fine coat and then go for it on the last coat, you end up with dry areas that can get really dry and 'furry' as it starts to flash off, especially now the air temp is warmer.
Also, using basecoat to get everywhere covered, allows you time to let the overspray to settle, check everywhere, re-apply colour etc untill it is all covered.
Then its a case of tack off, and hit it with the clearcoat/top coat for the finish.

Hope you can see what I'm trying to say there, any probs, let us know by pm or e-mail, and I'll try and clarify.

Neil...

 

no prob.. Ive painted a fair few cars before, not bothered with the fade out thinners before

 

What weight was the cage David? Looks almost "too much"! And how did you get the roof bars welded? Just as much as possible, or before it got put in, ie cut n shut afterwards?


I'd have used 800 grit myself.

 

50 kgs iirc..

Im not 'too' fussed about weight, but it is in the back of my mind as its cheap performance

 

I like yer style!


Why spend 10k, when you can spend half that!


I'd like to know what the usual 6 point bolt in jobbies weigh. I know my old one was a ridiculous amount, but i think that was all the bolted ends, that made that weigh so much.

 

awesome stuff mate

 

Only thing remaining to fit on the cage is the dashboard bar, need to locate steering column and front subframe to work out where to put it, alternatively I could guess, and use some measurements Ive been given by Andy C

David

 

Does it still have a front end
I'd go for Orange

Andy

 

How is your car Andy mate?