Floyd’s ‘economy’ Stage III
01 April 2005, 12:27 PM
#66
But my physics teacher did a demo that showed how black radiates heat more, therefore the heat will be transfered quicker from the hot compressed air to the cooling matrix. I thought that's why the old one was black? I also realise that this works the other way too - the trick would be to keep the matrix cool once the heat had beed transfered away, perhaps by using fans at idle... It all makes sense now!
F
F
02 April 2005, 11:15 PM
#73
Steve, you sure that's a recirc? Looks like VTA to me 
I've made a mistake. On my first post I said my car had more torque than it actually had
http://dyno.scoobynet.co.uk/indexps.htm
See the first car listed
Is this the lowest powered standard turbo scoob in the world???
F
I've made a mistake. On my first post I said my car had more torque than it actually had
http://dyno.scoobynet.co.uk/indexps.htmSee the first car listed
Is this the lowest powered standard turbo scoob in the world???F
03 April 2005, 07:31 AM
#74
On the 'matt black' thing.
If the general ambient temperature is 10 deg C and the TMIC is 30 then a black TMIC will dissipate the temp to the ambient quicker than a silver one.
This condition is unrealistic as we all know except in the winter maybe.
With the under bonnet temps being usually high, about 60 C, and the TMIC black,and cooler then that heat will be absorbed to the TMIC.
This condition is very realistic!
I think a silver TMIC is a good idea.
All cars use black paint as it is cheap, covers all sins and gives excellent corrosion protection.
Graham.
ps Flat: you were right about eb@y and price of scoops!
Looks like a go at the ugly home made big scoop coming up...
If the general ambient temperature is 10 deg C and the TMIC is 30 then a black TMIC will dissipate the temp to the ambient quicker than a silver one.
This condition is unrealistic as we all know except in the winter maybe.
With the under bonnet temps being usually high, about 60 C, and the TMIC black,and cooler then that heat will be absorbed to the TMIC.
This condition is very realistic!
I think a silver TMIC is a good idea.
All cars use black paint as it is cheap, covers all sins and gives excellent corrosion protection.
Graham.
ps Flat: you were right about eb@y and price of scoops!
Looks like a go at the ugly home made big scoop coming up...
04 April 2005, 12:45 PM
#80
Originally Posted by Floyd
Graham, hose arrived, ta!
TMIC fitted today. Few, it too flippin ages to get right. Just need some dump valve samco and I can try it out. Any one knoe the correct size - 28mm?
Pics and write up later.
F
TMIC fitted today. Few, it too flippin ages to get right. Just need some dump valve samco and I can try it out. Any one knoe the correct size - 28mm?
Pics and write up later.
F
The first couple of time the TMIC is a PITA but once you start removing it daily it becomes very easy. I found the key to making a bit more room for it is to shorten the throttlebody samco.
Bob
04 April 2005, 06:23 PM
#82
TMIC IV
I offered up the TMIC as in TMIC III and was able to fabricate an adapter from some ali angle:
I replaced the i/c and put a mounting hole in the correct place. The bracket has a little horizontal movement to enable the throttle bobey to be lined up correctly:
The near side adapter was next and the height could be fixed more accurately once the offside adapter was in place. The finished adapter (note extra hole not needed - used for a previous experiment) ready to fit:
And reverse angle:
F
I replaced the i/c and put a mounting hole in the correct place. The bracket has a little horizontal movement to enable the throttle bobey to be lined up correctly:
The near side adapter was next and the height could be fixed more accurately once the offside adapter was in place. The finished adapter (note extra hole not needed - used for a previous experiment) ready to fit:
And reverse angle:
F
Last edited by Floyd; 04 April 2005 at 06:26 PM.
04 April 2005, 06:35 PM
#83
TMIC IV cont.
The nearside bracket was a little low so I used a longer bolt and some spacers:
The DV was a close fit, too close and some clearance was required. The coil pack was surgically enhanced, and the DV top had a little panel beating:
The coil pack surgery revealed nothing more than potting compound thankfully. I had fears that I would expose windings
The final height:
And the clearance at the back bulkhead:
The DV recirc pipe is another challenge. I rerouted my breathers to give more space and shifted the hot water feed to the throttle body. I will get a pipe from my local motor factors, probably. The nearside original MY99/00 bracket can be bent to fit incidentally but I chose not to. It is only a couple of cm's out but I found it easier and more accurate to make an adapter.
F
The DV was a close fit, too close and some clearance was required. The coil pack was surgically enhanced, and the DV top had a little panel beating:
The coil pack surgery revealed nothing more than potting compound thankfully. I had fears that I would expose windings
The final height:
And the clearance at the back bulkhead:
The DV recirc pipe is another challenge. I rerouted my breathers to give more space and shifted the hot water feed to the throttle body. I will get a pipe from my local motor factors, probably. The nearside original MY99/00 bracket can be bent to fit incidentally but I chose not to. It is only a couple of cm's out but I found it easier and more accurate to make an adapter.
F
05 April 2005, 07:55 AM
#86
Graham, no I haven't closed the bonnet yet I was going to remove the scoop and undertray first, which I've not had time to do just yet. Bugger! The nearside should be a doddle to lower but now the offside will require a bit more thought. It may now cause clearance issues on the bulkhead...
Micky, the adapters may not be right yet!
F
I was going to remove the scoop and undertray first, which I've not had time to do just yet. Bugger! The nearside should be a doddle to lower but now the offside will require a bit more thought. It may now cause clearance issues on the bulkhead...Micky, the adapters may not be right yet!
F
05 April 2005, 12:55 PM
#87
You have done exactly what I did!
If/when you take the tray/scoop off you might find the bonnet rear underside pressing will foul on the TMIC and have to lower the rear TMIC edge a LONG way, ie 30mm.
This will mean the bracket on the side of the TMIC will come down to exacatly the same level as the mounting face of the o/s bracket originally, thus your spacer block will be in the wrong place.
As a rule of thumb, the right height is when the tube of the TMIC is exactly in-line with the throtle body diameter.
I've been there!
Graham
If/when you take the tray/scoop off you might find the bonnet rear underside pressing will foul on the TMIC and have to lower the rear TMIC edge a LONG way, ie 30mm.
This will mean the bracket on the side of the TMIC will come down to exacatly the same level as the mounting face of the o/s bracket originally, thus your spacer block will be in the wrong place.
As a rule of thumb, the right height is when the tube of the TMIC is exactly in-line with the throtle body diameter.
I've been there!
Graham
Last edited by 911; 05 April 2005 at 12:56 PM. Reason: spelling
