Floyd’s ‘economy’ Stage III
#93
Arrggghhh! I've got the bonnet to close now but the 90deg elbow hose is a right pain to get right. I think I've cut it too short now - ****! Another donation to Samco presumably If anyone is considering this mod then don't underestimate the effort involved. It looks straight forward but...
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#94
nice one floyd. It's been a while since I done mine but the memories are still there....
Do you have much trouble in taking the intercooler out....I got mine just right that it takes about 3 minutes to remove.
Do you have much trouble in taking the intercooler out....I got mine just right that it takes about 3 minutes to remove.
#96
Blue scoop, your i/c looks further away from the throttle body than Grahams and mine, how did you manage that? Most have had to cut the connecting pipe and get it even closer than Graham and mine!
The longest elbow from Samco is 102mm that I can find. Is there a longer one and where from? Can anyone suggest what recirc pipe to use?
The longest elbow from Samco is 102mm that I can find. Is there a longer one and where from? Can anyone suggest what recirc pipe to use?
#97
\m/ ^_^ \m/
i'm pretty sure mine was 130mm or something, but mine was bespoke so to speak
looks like a phase 2 manifold on that car which might be the reason for the TB hose length and ease of fitting
as to the IC going in and out, mines pretty quick aswell but then again i did have the STi5 in before which needed alot of the 'modification' to the firewall and surrounding area
looks like a phase 2 manifold on that car which might be the reason for the TB hose length and ease of fitting
as to the IC going in and out, mines pretty quick aswell but then again i did have the STi5 in before which needed alot of the 'modification' to the firewall and surrounding area
#98
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your IC is set level, notice the angle on mine. No mods made to the bulkhead or the y hose. I let you guys work that one out
Any guesses on the strut yet?
Well, anyway I used the 110mm elbow which required some trimming on one end.
The way that it is set up, it is only a five minute job to put back I would say the hardest part is putting the dumpvalve return pipe which by the way is from an sti8 if anyone was woundering.
I have very similar bolt on specs but as yet I have not had it on the rollers.....looking forward to the Power station run
Any estimates on the following spec:
FeTdo5 ported and polished all the holes
sti8 TMIC
550cc injectors
Induction kit with cold air feed and custom airbox
Samco MAf hose
Custom silicon induction pipe
255lph Walbro fuel pump
Fse regulator
Iridium plugs(grade7)
Ported headed and up-pipe heat wrapped
3" TSL downpipe to 2.5" decat system
AVr-c boost controller set at 1.5bars
Andy F TEK3 map
Modded breather pipes to catch can.
Any idea on the power levels....
Any guesses on the strut yet?
Well, anyway I used the 110mm elbow which required some trimming on one end.
The way that it is set up, it is only a five minute job to put back I would say the hardest part is putting the dumpvalve return pipe which by the way is from an sti8 if anyone was woundering.
I have very similar bolt on specs but as yet I have not had it on the rollers.....looking forward to the Power station run
Any estimates on the following spec:
FeTdo5 ported and polished all the holes
sti8 TMIC
550cc injectors
Induction kit with cold air feed and custom airbox
Samco MAf hose
Custom silicon induction pipe
255lph Walbro fuel pump
Fse regulator
Iridium plugs(grade7)
Ported headed and up-pipe heat wrapped
3" TSL downpipe to 2.5" decat system
AVr-c boost controller set at 1.5bars
Andy F TEK3 map
Modded breather pipes to catch can.
Any idea on the power levels....
Last edited by James L; 08 April 2005 at 05:29 AM.
#99
My guess:
UK based engine, about 300 x 290
Sti based engine, about 360 x 320
I have assumed straight Optimax for both. Add NF for a further 5%?
Should be nice!
Let us all know.
Graham.
UK based engine, about 300 x 290
Sti based engine, about 360 x 320
I have assumed straight Optimax for both. Add NF for a further 5%?
Should be nice!
Let us all know.
Graham.
#101
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F: Hang in there mate with the i/c. I remember how frustrated I was getting, but now I have it right I think back and wonder what all the fuss was about. Mine now takes a few mins to remove/fit. Not sure what samcos to use as I cut up my old samco Y and joined it onto the sti one. Also used the old samco for re-circ but cutting away the inside (at the d/v end) to enlarge the dia. Not ideal but it works for me.
Still awaiting news on the Floyd brackets
Not sure if this is what Graham means but....with the STi revving higher it would in theory produce more power. For example my RR run was stopped at 6548RPM. At this point it produced 352.7bhp and was steadily rising still. On a STi the operator probably would have gone further (even maintaining the same 500RPM safety margin). Not sure at what point the bhp would start to fall off (if at all). I doubt it would make the difference between 300/290 & 360/320.
Bob
Still awaiting news on the Floyd brackets
Not sure if this is what Graham means but....with the STi revving higher it would in theory produce more power. For example my RR run was stopped at 6548RPM. At this point it produced 352.7bhp and was steadily rising still. On a STi the operator probably would have gone further (even maintaining the same 500RPM safety margin). Not sure at what point the bhp would start to fall off (if at all). I doubt it would make the difference between 300/290 & 360/320.
Bob
#103
Bob, my brackets will work to a point. It seems each car will need further 'tweeks' to get just right - a bit of bracket persuation to align. The brackets will get you 95% there it seems. Only when I've completed the undertray and tried it out will I know how successful I've been...
BTW I've made a cardboard template for the undertray and 1st cut in ali will be this w/e. I also plan to lift the manifold, drop the headers and turbo/dp - gulp!
F
BTW I've made a cardboard template for the undertray and 1st cut in ali will be this w/e. I also plan to lift the manifold, drop the headers and turbo/dp - gulp!
F
#105
Sti has the aggressive cams, especially the V3 my97 engine, and it revs to 8K
Generally, Power = torque x speed (which is a gross simplification)
This partly explaind why an F1 engine is so powerful, good torue and ballistic rpm, ie 18K.
Graham.
Generally, Power = torque x speed (which is a gross simplification)
This partly explaind why an F1 engine is so powerful, good torue and ballistic rpm, ie 18K.
Graham.
#108
Graham, not going that far! I spent 9 straight hours taking the DP, centre, headers, turbo and inlet manifold of yesterday. I'm knackered!
When I looked at the mess I'd made I was a little worried to say the least I had bits all over the garden, tools strewn throughout the garage and garden and my hands were full of cuts and bruises
I can't see a way of doing the parallel fuel mod without a seperate fuel reg. Now as this project is about keeping cost to a minimum, I didn't want to buy one. But, while the manifold is off it would be silly not to... Not sure I have time though
I destroyed the old inlet pipe trying to get it off and that was with the manilfold off I didn't want to remove the fuel rails.
F
When I looked at the mess I'd made I was a little worried to say the least I had bits all over the garden, tools strewn throughout the garage and garden and my hands were full of cuts and bruises
I can't see a way of doing the parallel fuel mod without a seperate fuel reg. Now as this project is about keeping cost to a minimum, I didn't want to buy one. But, while the manifold is off it would be silly not to... Not sure I have time though
I destroyed the old inlet pipe trying to get it off and that was with the manilfold off I didn't want to remove the fuel rails.
F
#109
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MEF may have adaptors for to use with the OE reg, worth a try before buying another reg?
#113
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Floyd, are the parallel conversion fittings OK for you?
Interesting thread, I did this conversion last year on the rally car but recently scrapped it off for a WRC style FMIC with re-positioned turbo and reversed manifold, due to the Sti8 I/C continually hitting the bulkhead and splitting/leaking as they are only crimped together. (and thats with special billet alloy engine & gearbox mounts and a rosejointed gearbox steady!) I chopped some of the bulkhead stay bar bracket away too as it was digging in the short black connecting hose on the turbo pipes. Even though I thought there was loads of clearance, it still hit the bulkhead on big landings from yumps! In saying that it was perfect on the road!
Best of luck!
Martin
Interesting thread, I did this conversion last year on the rally car but recently scrapped it off for a WRC style FMIC with re-positioned turbo and reversed manifold, due to the Sti8 I/C continually hitting the bulkhead and splitting/leaking as they are only crimped together. (and thats with special billet alloy engine & gearbox mounts and a rosejointed gearbox steady!) I chopped some of the bulkhead stay bar bracket away too as it was digging in the short black connecting hose on the turbo pipes. Even though I thought there was loads of clearance, it still hit the bulkhead on big landings from yumps! In saying that it was perfect on the road!
Best of luck!
Martin
#114
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Floyd, here is the next addition to your Sti8 TMIC! : http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimateb...=000497#000016
Martin
Martin
#116
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Martin: Sounds familar. How did you know it was leaking?
Pics of mine where it has leaked:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/...ts_leaking.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/...aking_zoom.jpg
Any tips on repair or is it just as case of knocking it back together again?
Bob
Pics of mine where it has leaked:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/...ts_leaking.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/...aking_zoom.jpg
Any tips on repair or is it just as case of knocking it back together again?
Bob
#117
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Yes, exactly the same, the little tabs bend undone. I was getting a fast drop off in boost pressure after it peaking.
I unbent all the tabs, removed the end can, discarded the rubber O ring gasket and re-sealed it with Sikaflex and re-bent the tabs down again. Was perfect after that, probably stronger than standard too! I think the real solution would be to get it welded all the way around each end can by a really good ally welder! (probably after cutting all those tabs off first).
Sorry. no pics of the engine and box mounts at present but will do some tomorrow. By the way, I can supply these mountings if required, they are CNC machined from billet alloy and have solid rubber bushes, similar to the TAS and TEG ones but better and they fit properly too.
Martin
I unbent all the tabs, removed the end can, discarded the rubber O ring gasket and re-sealed it with Sikaflex and re-bent the tabs down again. Was perfect after that, probably stronger than standard too! I think the real solution would be to get it welded all the way around each end can by a really good ally welder! (probably after cutting all those tabs off first).
Sorry. no pics of the engine and box mounts at present but will do some tomorrow. By the way, I can supply these mountings if required, they are CNC machined from billet alloy and have solid rubber bushes, similar to the TAS and TEG ones but better and they fit properly too.
Martin
#118
Throttle body mod
Right, time to move things on a bit. I'll finish the TMIC a bit later when the under tray has been completed (similar in some ways to Martins' 'giganta-scoop'). BTW, Martin I did reply on that project but I had forgotten that I'd seen it and should have took some pointers from it, also I did look at the kit you sent and it looks good - Ta
Anyway, back on topic. did this mod a little while ago but haven't had time to fit it hence the rust on the spindle...
This pic shows the un-modded TB with nasty lip:
This shows how thick the spindle is and another mismatch further into the TB:
A few components to put back together
A picture of the turned TB next to a picture of a modded Honda TB from a tuning company:
The slimmed spindle:
And the allen bolt countersunk fittings (thread locked in):
Anyway, back on topic. did this mod a little while ago but haven't had time to fit it hence the rust on the spindle...
This pic shows the un-modded TB with nasty lip:
This shows how thick the spindle is and another mismatch further into the TB:
A few components to put back together
A picture of the turned TB next to a picture of a modded Honda TB from a tuning company:
The slimmed spindle:
And the allen bolt countersunk fittings (thread locked in):
#119
TB cont.
I could have slimmed the spindle more but I got nervous I only knife edged one half of the butterfly and on the leading edge only. This was to make sure I get a good seal when the TB is shut and idle is maintained. The eagle eyed amoung you may notice a small lup on the butterfly. This is to cover the purge hole for the charcole canister. I don't think I need to leave it covered but it shouldn't make that much difference to leave it in for now.
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