Bolt-on 360 bhp x 330lbft: Phase one started.
That's great everybody, just what we had worked out at work.
I'm a prat though (you may already have worked that out) as I have the gauge in the 'output' port, not the 'inlet' spare port, so the mounting bracket will have to be changed......
Seems the best way to get a pipe balance is to cut/remove the stock pipework and pipe-up with high pressure flexible and the Tees, lead everything back to the SX fpr and off into the stock fuel returns.
Thanks for the effort, especially Bats.
911
I'm a prat though (you may already have worked that out) as I have the gauge in the 'output' port, not the 'inlet' spare port, so the mounting bracket will have to be changed......

Seems the best way to get a pipe balance is to cut/remove the stock pipework and pipe-up with high pressure flexible and the Tees, lead everything back to the SX fpr and off into the stock fuel returns.
Thanks for the effort, especially Bats.
911
must admit G,
This is spurring me on for phase 3 modding.
(phase 1 = decat, filter and manual boost control)
(Phase 2 = ECU, turbo and fuel delivery system)
(Phase 3 =
on its way shortly)
This is spurring me on for phase 3 modding.
(phase 1 = decat, filter and manual boost control)
(Phase 2 = ECU, turbo and fuel delivery system)
(Phase 3 =
on its way shortly)
Originally Posted by 911
That's great everybody, just what we had worked out at work.
I'm a prat though (you may already have worked that out) as I have the gauge in the 'output' port, not the 'inlet' spare port, so the mounting bracket will have to be changed......
Seems the best way to get a pipe balance is to cut/remove the stock pipework and pipe-up with high pressure flexible and the Tees, lead everything back to the SX fpr and off into the stock fuel returns.
Thanks for the effort, especially Bats.
911
I'm a prat though (you may already have worked that out) as I have the gauge in the 'output' port, not the 'inlet' spare port, so the mounting bracket will have to be changed......

Seems the best way to get a pipe balance is to cut/remove the stock pipework and pipe-up with high pressure flexible and the Tees, lead everything back to the SX fpr and off into the stock fuel returns.
Thanks for the effort, especially Bats.
911

Andrew...
<<off topic>>
sorted
<<back on topic>>
must admit, with my recent fuel delivery problems I am seeing light at the end of the proverbial, following your footsteps again G
Andy
sorted

<<back on topic>>
must admit, with my recent fuel delivery problems I am seeing light at the end of the proverbial, following your footsteps again G

Andy
Last edited by Peanuts; Jan 5, 2005 at 11:21 AM.
Now Dave has mentioned the multiple bends in the metal hard pipework, I'm thinking of cutting all the tube away and replacing with graceful gentle curvey rubber pipe..but you then loose the support of the factory brackets or have to clip the rubber hoes to support them, could always use cable ties.....
Decide tonight.
Far more perplexing is the £200/300 wanted for an inlet pipe in silicon with a 60mm dia opening for the TD05!
Another bit of DIY coming up I think.
Graham
Decide tonight.
Far more perplexing is the £200/300 wanted for an inlet pipe in silicon with a 60mm dia opening for the TD05!
Another bit of DIY coming up I think.
Graham
I nearly bought the inlet off Alan, but all the chat about the turbo hunting with too big an inlet diameter put me off.
Have found a Samco hose thanks to Roger Clark, but cost is £200 + vat.
Going to try a spare 60/50mm samco reducer I have and see if I cant get from the TD inlet (60mm) to the plastic Sti inlet, but I'm not hopefull.
The $$$ keep on dissapearing!
If I had more time then a diy steel tube job would be possible, but I start hill climbing in 10 weeks time and the car looks like a scrapyard...
Graham.
Have found a Samco hose thanks to Roger Clark, but cost is £200 + vat.
Going to try a spare 60/50mm samco reducer I have and see if I cant get from the TD inlet (60mm) to the plastic Sti inlet, but I'm not hopefull.
The $$$ keep on dissapearing!
If I had more time then a diy steel tube job would be possible, but I start hill climbing in 10 weeks time and the car looks like a scrapyard...

Graham.
Graham, I know these aren't the greatest photos, but they may help...
Inlet manifold top and bottom
As you can see my inlet pipe was a fairly basic design *cough* that utalised a samco straight reducer cut at and angle, a samco 90 degree elbow and a 70mm diameter piece of stainless pipe with a smaller diameter pipe welded to it to make a 'T' for the dump valve, all the oil breathers were fed to a catch can and the ISCV fitted with a small K&N breather filter...cheap but very effective...although it did require a bit of Pat'ing to get the manifold to fit back on the engine
You can also see how I plumbed in my parallel fuel rail feed
Inlet manifold top and bottom
As you can see my inlet pipe was a fairly basic design *cough* that utalised a samco straight reducer cut at and angle, a samco 90 degree elbow and a 70mm diameter piece of stainless pipe with a smaller diameter pipe welded to it to make a 'T' for the dump valve, all the oil breathers were fed to a catch can and the ISCV fitted with a small K&N breather filter...cheap but very effective...although it did require a bit of Pat'ing to get the manifold to fit back on the engine

You can also see how I plumbed in my parallel fuel rail feed
Tim, thanks so much, really helpful!

This is what is so good about Snet, the help and effort people put in!
I was trying to keep things as stock as is reasonable incase I want to strip all the parts off, but to hell with it. Will strip all the pipes of and clean it all up.
The inlet tube 'design' is interesting, and will do the same job as the £250 new Samco one!
I'll be in the garage copying you!
Cheered me up no end
Graham.

This is what is so good about Snet, the help and effort people put in!
I was trying to keep things as stock as is reasonable incase I want to strip all the parts off, but to hell with it. Will strip all the pipes of and clean it all up.
The inlet tube 'design' is interesting, and will do the same job as the £250 new Samco one!
I'll be in the garage copying you!
Cheered me up no end

Graham.
Graham... you have a PowerFC right? If so the bit where Tim put a K+N on the ISCV can't be done as the ecu is MAF based..... could maybe Tee that into the DV pipe from the inlet tho, or better still have two take offs.????
Tony.
Tony.
Yes, have the FC waiting on the shelf for Andy F to fit.
Tried to 'patch-up' my split inlet pipe to no real success, so will bite the bullet and order the fancy Roger Clark one tomorrow. Must start to make progress this weekend on the car!
I will leave the oil return system till another day and return all the pipes back in place.
The oil contamination in the inlet/TMIC etc is quite alarming, and I already run at low oil levels, so there must be a lot of oil vapour about.
Easy mod to do later, spending $$$ on current problems....................
Graham.
Tried to 'patch-up' my split inlet pipe to no real success, so will bite the bullet and order the fancy Roger Clark one tomorrow. Must start to make progress this weekend on the car!
I will leave the oil return system till another day and return all the pipes back in place.
The oil contamination in the inlet/TMIC etc is quite alarming, and I already run at low oil levels, so there must be a lot of oil vapour about.
Easy mod to do later, spending $$$ on current problems....................

Graham.
I just remembered something, I remote mounted my power steering resovoir so I could get the big elbow in 
Perhaps these pics would help too...
Engine bay shot 1 and 2
As Tony was saying there's nothing to stop you 'T'ing the ISCV back into the inlet pipe somewhere else
Oh, and sending all your breathers (each head and the crankcase) to a catch can shoul help eliminate your IC oil contamination problems, plus improve your map by making things more consisitant

Perhaps these pics would help too...
Engine bay shot 1 and 2
As Tony was saying there's nothing to stop you 'T'ing the ISCV back into the inlet pipe somewhere else
Oh, and sending all your breathers (each head and the crankcase) to a catch can shoul help eliminate your IC oil contamination problems, plus improve your map by making things more consisitant
Last edited by Tim W; Jan 6, 2005 at 01:37 AM.
I bought a shiny Cusco breather catch can, next time I use any old plastic bottle with wire wool and two rubber pipes bunged in 
Note that I only put the crank breather through the catch can - this was enough to remove all oil from getting as far as i/c (and allowed up to 5 degrees more advance when done at the same time as a new inlet pipe
).
Richard

Note that I only put the crank breather through the catch can - this was enough to remove all oil from getting as far as i/c (and allowed up to 5 degrees more advance when done at the same time as a new inlet pipe
).Richard
Originally Posted by Peanuts
another option for the breathers is to simply vent all three down to the road....
BLOODY HELL!!!!
Just ordered the hose from Roger Clark.......................but it is one of their special ones to take the TD05 60mm inlet. Just my luck Jon.
You CANNOT run the breather pipes to the groung. The Scruits will kill you for that, and stop you running, and will endorse your race licence.....
The plastic bottle with tubes to the cap is the 'normal' practice as you can see where the level is!(and it's cheap) Bicycle bottles are favorite as they come with a mounting bracket!
Interesting that the crankcase is the prime source for contamination Richard, thanks for that. Will fit a bottle for that pipe while I'm living in the engine bay every night...
I hope to make real 'inlet manifold' progress over the weekend. Lots of pics to show my mess off.
Graham.
Just ordered the hose from Roger Clark.......................but it is one of their special ones to take the TD05 60mm inlet. Just my luck Jon.

You CANNOT run the breather pipes to the groung. The Scruits will kill you for that, and stop you running, and will endorse your race licence.....

The plastic bottle with tubes to the cap is the 'normal' practice as you can see where the level is!(and it's cheap) Bicycle bottles are favorite as they come with a mounting bracket!
Interesting that the crankcase is the prime source for contamination Richard, thanks for that. Will fit a bottle for that pipe while I'm living in the engine bay every night...
I hope to make real 'inlet manifold' progress over the weekend. Lots of pics to show my mess off.

Graham.
Originally Posted by 911
The plastic bottle with tubes to the cap is the 'normal' practice as you can see where the level is!(and it's cheap) Bicycle bottles are favorite as they come with a mounting bracket!
...wish I had too, Cusco cost me nearly 100 quid....*very* shiny though 
Graham - Note: I'm not sure if earlier engines are the same. My main reason for trying crank only first was that I did not want to connect crank and heads via a t-piece due to concerns about circulation between the two (vacuum normally in inlet pipe to stop this).
Richard

Graham - Note: I'm not sure if earlier engines are the same. My main reason for trying crank only first was that I did not want to connect crank and heads via a t-piece due to concerns about circulation between the two (vacuum normally in inlet pipe to stop this).
Richard
WRT the breathers, has anybody looked in detail at their set up recently?
I noticed that my crank case breather and OS Cam breather are oily at the base where the hose connects, however the NS cam breather is bone dry.
indicative of anything?
I noticed that my crank case breather and OS Cam breather are oily at the base where the hose connects, however the NS cam breather is bone dry.
indicative of anything?
Originally Posted by CustomScoobyIOM
Graham you ordered it yet?! Got a brand new Samco Inlet one here in blue if you want can get it out today.
Call me 07740047043 if you want it.
£85 delivered.
Jon.
Call me 07740047043 if you want it.
£85 delivered.
Jon.



you've had more time over xmas than me
