Top Mounts with increased caster
#94
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
That's crazy. When I spoke to Alyn at AS a few months back he said he has another top mount available now with a canted bearing which I may try, but I suspect I'll bite the bullet and go for his modified lower arms to match the S202 spec and fit Group N top mounts which at least come with decent bearings!
#95
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
That's crazy. When I spoke to Alyn at AS a few months back he said he has another top mount available now with a canted bearing which I may try, but I suspect I'll bite the bullet and go for his modified lower arms to match the S202 spec and fit Group N top mounts which at least come with decent bearings!
I don't think I will use Whiteline strut mounts again, even if they do offer to replace the replacements, given the disruption and cost of changing them, but that means losing the additional camber they give.
#99
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
I will smother it if they give me another set! Thing is that I don't really want to invest the time in fitting a product that has the life span of a consumable item.
Virtually all pillowball mounts only fit coilovers, leaving oem, Pedders, Sti, and Racecomp Engineering in Quebec as options.
Virtually all pillowball mounts only fit coilovers, leaving oem, Pedders, Sti, and Racecomp Engineering in Quebec as options.
The following users liked this post:
#101
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Does the additional height of the Pedders top mount clear the Koni adjusters?
I'd be wary adding an additional barrier of grease with shielded bearings, as differing greases can liquefy in combination.
The oem/group n top mount bearings are sealed at the base and open at the top.
Last edited by 2pot; 16 May 2021 at 09:32 PM.
#102
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/products...ease-lanoguard
Last edited by 2pot; 16 May 2021 at 09:33 PM.
The following users liked this post:
#103
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Drill a hoie in the centre of the top mount dust cap? If you get it the right hole diameter you can spin the dust cap on using the projecting threads.
Does the additional height of the Pedders top mount clear the Koni adjusters?
I'd be wary adding an additional barrier of grease with shielded bearings, as differing greases can liquefy in combination.
The oem/group n top mount bearings are sealed at the base and open at the top.
Does the additional height of the Pedders top mount clear the Koni adjusters?
I'd be wary adding an additional barrier of grease with shielded bearings, as differing greases can liquefy in combination.
The oem/group n top mount bearings are sealed at the base and open at the top.
#104
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I just took a flat screwdriver and punched the centre of the cap with it and a dead blow hammer. It punched through the rubber so that the adjuster stub can poke through but remains sealed pretty well.
#105
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
I might order some more although I think from memory I chucked them as they were too small in diameter for the Whiteline mounts.
.
I could probably take some measurements and find some pipe fittings from a DIY store.
.
I could probably take some measurements and find some pipe fittings from a DIY store.
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; 17 May 2021 at 04:12 PM.
#106
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
What about?
Screw on a flanged nut (flange side up) or half-height nut (with washer) to the correct height to fully engage the dust cap into the top mount? Add silicon to the flange/washer face and around threads.
Hole in the centre of dust cap.
Screw on another flanged nut/half-height nut and washer to clamp the dust cap?
Koni - M12 1.25 pitch nut
#109
Scooby Regular
Obviously I shouldn't have to do that though!
#110
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
This is strange i had the KCA335 top mounts fitted at litchfields years ago with a number of trackdays thrown in for good measure and mine are still pretty much intact. That without ever having the dust cap ever fitted either?
Agree with the WL ARB finishes, its terrible. Looked at mine and they need restoring, but as i'm removing them to fit Prodrive / STI items its not a big issue.
Agree with the WL ARB finishes, its terrible. Looked at mine and they need restoring, but as i'm removing them to fit Prodrive / STI items its not a big issue.
Last edited by MelTypeR; 19 May 2021 at 03:57 PM.
#113
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Mine look like that - I emailed whiteline about it a year ago (it's barely turned a wheel since) and they said it was only cosmetic. I have my doubts about this but I'm just going to sack them off when I get a chance rather than bother with the hassle of replacement again.
#114
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Mine have definitely failed, because the hatch specC is normally so sharp, and it now has lost its sharpness up front, at the same time as the tears appearing. Thing is that I need to move on from this cycle of replacement.
#115
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I've got to admit that their customer service has been excellent, they got back to me today, asking my geo setup , out of interest, agreeing it shouldn't happen so quickly, and asking where I want a new set sent.
Mine have definitely failed, because the hatch specC is normally so sharp, and it now has lost its sharpness up front, at the same time as the tears appearing. Thing is that I need to move on from this cycle of replacement.
Mine have definitely failed, because the hatch specC is normally so sharp, and it now has lost its sharpness up front, at the same time as the tears appearing. Thing is that I need to move on from this cycle of replacement.
Alyn at AS when I was asking about the the S202 mod mentioned that he has some other offset top mounts available which have the bearing relocated on a different plane, rather than being flat to the mounting surface as the WL's are. This has to help prevent some of the issues the WL's have been suffering for years. Might be worth giving him a shout if you're willing to lay down some cash? Probably wouldn't cost that much if you get the WL's replaced and sell them straight off.
#116
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
I'm a month away from getting my tein coilovers fitted.
Should I get oem top mounts or pedders?
who sells the oem for the cheapest price as let's be honest there's no point paying more than needed?
Is it worth packing them out with white grease before install to prolong their lives?
Oh and I want to replace the rears & bump stops while everything is out. Oem again?
Should I get oem top mounts or pedders?
who sells the oem for the cheapest price as let's be honest there's no point paying more than needed?
Is it worth packing them out with white grease before install to prolong their lives?
Oh and I want to replace the rears & bump stops while everything is out. Oem again?
#117
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
I'm a month away from getting my tein coilovers fitted.
Should I get oem top mounts or pedders?
who sells the oem for the cheapest price as let's be honest there's no point paying more than needed?
Is it worth packing them out with white grease before install to prolong their lives?
Oh and I want to replace the rears & bump stops while everything is out. Oem again?
Should I get oem top mounts or pedders?
who sells the oem for the cheapest price as let's be honest there's no point paying more than needed?
Is it worth packing them out with white grease before install to prolong their lives?
Oh and I want to replace the rears & bump stops while everything is out. Oem again?
The following users liked this post:
#118
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
I've had a credit note from UK Whiteline, which is fine after having 2 sets. They offered another replacement, but for the time being I'm going back to oem.
I think I know the answer to this next question; last time I replaced the top mounts it was like for like, and I marked all the strut bolt positions prior, so alignments were maintained. Presumably, going back to oem, I'll have to guess the camber and go for another alignment? Or is there a rough method for doing it as near as possible? Thanks.
I think I know the answer to this next question; last time I replaced the top mounts it was like for like, and I marked all the strut bolt positions prior, so alignments were maintained. Presumably, going back to oem, I'll have to guess the camber and go for another alignment? Or is there a rough method for doing it as near as possible? Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
#120
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
I've had a credit note from UK Whiteline, which is fine after having 2 sets. They offered another replacement, but for the time being I'm going back to oem.
I think I know the answer to this next question; last time I replaced the top mounts it was like for like, and I marked all the strut bolt positions prior, so alignments were maintained. Presumably, going back to oem, I'll have to guess the camber and go for another alignment? Or is there a rough method for doing it as near as possible? Thanks.
I think I know the answer to this next question; last time I replaced the top mounts it was like for like, and I marked all the strut bolt positions prior, so alignments were maintained. Presumably, going back to oem, I'll have to guess the camber and go for another alignment? Or is there a rough method for doing it as near as possible? Thanks.
Or get a camber gauge. But again, I think they are only good for max camber. I don't think you could ever accurately get a specific degree of camber with them - your drive would need to be perfectly flat for a start and then the car isn't level if you behave it jacked up and the suspension isn't under the correct load etc. Having said that, it's what I have used to set max camber.
Obviously you won't get near your current settings with the standard mounts - that was the whole point of the offset ones. So I guess you'd go max anyway?
The following users liked this post:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Silver Scooby Sport
Suspension
14
28 February 2005 09:35 PM