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Old 01 April 2017, 05:46 PM
  #61  
captainlip
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and andys advice was airflow, its lacking getting air in. and possible pipe collapsing. if its achievable I will do it. im not set anymore on the 350hp figure, im set on trying to stopp it feeling like it hits a wall at 5000rpm, I want it to be able to hold the boost for longer. hence sti top mount and induction going to be ordered.
Old 01 April 2017, 05:58 PM
  #62  
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I think the first point of call is put on STI top mount with the silicone hoses, as this doesnt need a map tweak apparently and will see if it can hold boost a little longer. if it does its a winner and ill leave it at that. if not ill put induction kit on and try another remap.
Old 01 April 2017, 07:01 PM
  #63  
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Did you have it mapped maffless? If so i belive that it wont need a map tweak
Old 01 April 2017, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by nortonscooby
Did you have it mapped maffless? If so i belive that it wont need a map tweak
Why not?
Old 01 April 2017, 07:53 PM
  #65  
matieboy
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In my experience you get the nice low down torque from a 2.5 but it's never going to rev like a 2.0 unless you have a monster turbo mine has a lm500 and I still find I need to change gear earlier than had to have with my previous 2.0 cars.
What cars have you owned previously you may need to change your driving style I know I've had to change earlier and ride the torque rather than reving the **** off it.
Old 02 April 2017, 08:59 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
Why not?
Because if andrew has mapped it maffless then he would of used a speed density sensor fitted to the tmic so fitting a c.a.i kit shouldnt need a tweak. I maybe wrong tho
Old 02 April 2017, 09:15 AM
  #67  
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An IAT sensor is set up to compensate for the different intake temps,I wouldn't have thought it compensates for the extra volume of air being introduced.
Fuel,timing and boost will all need a tweak,I'm no expert tho,just the way I see it.
Old 02 April 2017, 01:00 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by nortonscooby
Because if andrew has mapped it maffless then he would of used a speed density sensor fitted to the tmic so fitting a c.a.i kit shouldnt need a tweak. I maybe wrong tho
Would need tweak
Andrew uses the maf to read intake temps only although running mafless in my past experience with the gentleman
Old 02 April 2017, 09:09 PM
  #69  
captainlip
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So someone elsewhere has ripped this map apart says its not safe to drive, the cross over point should be 5200rpm. any thoughts on this?
Old 02 April 2017, 09:11 PM
  #70  
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Also saying actuator fecked, would this not be diagnosed on a remap?
Old 02 April 2017, 09:11 PM
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Who is the someone else?
Old 02 April 2017, 09:14 PM
  #72  
captainlip
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Just someone from one of the FB scooby pages says he has had alot of cars mapped insists needs 3-4 hours per remap.
Old 02 April 2017, 09:26 PM
  #73  
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BHP and torque are crossing at 5250 rpm.
Old 02 April 2017, 09:26 PM
  #74  
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Unless it was someone who really knew there stuff i personally wouldn't take any notice.
Old 02 April 2017, 09:34 PM
  #75  
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Think hes just being a retard, he must have been looking at the other graph.
Old 02 April 2017, 09:34 PM
  #76  
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Name and shame I say
Old 02 April 2017, 09:44 PM
  #77  
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You will find my post easily on the facebook subaru impreza owners uk page
Old 02 April 2017, 09:49 PM
  #78  
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Put a link up
Old 02 April 2017, 09:49 PM
  #79  
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wont let me post a link odd

Last edited by captainlip; 02 April 2017 at 09:51 PM.
Old 03 April 2017, 09:33 AM
  #80  
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Ignore anyone from a FB group in my experience.

Trust what Andy Carr says too. He knows what he's on about.

Don't worry about the wastegate crack, most VF turbos end up with this and it makes no difference at all to how the turbo performs.

If it were me I'd fit an STI TMIC, STI scoop under tray, decent 3 port (like the SWRD Pierberg unit) and have Andy map it again. Job done!


If it's still not holding boost then change the actuator.

Have you upgraded your brakes yet?

Last edited by BrownPantsRacing; 04 April 2017 at 08:56 AM.
Old 03 April 2017, 07:28 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by captainlip
Just someone from one of the FB scooby pages says he has had alot of cars mapped insists needs 3-4 hours per remap.
Well Andys mapped a few cars for me which prob took him an hour or so, and I do several track days and go to the ring a few times a year with no issues and cars go well, matched against any other scoobies mapped by anyone else, sadly I'm not on facef@ck or I'd go on there and say the same Cheers Rob
Old 08 April 2017, 09:06 PM
  #82  
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So interestingly on the way back from manchester my suspicions were confirmed, it was struggling up the revs and wasnt smooth power delivery, today in 4th accelerated upto 5000rpm then bam big misfire, and check engine light has come on and stayed on. messaged andy and he replied promptly which was good. he said possible boost control pipes? but inspecting under the hood cant find a thing untowards. its a pig to drive and feels like its overboosting, lacking air or cutting fuel.

ive just ordered silicone intake pipe, picking up STI TMIC tuesday just need induction kit, do you think a 3 port will help andy in this case to map it easier? I dont want to be going back and fourth.

any advice be great.

Last edited by captainlip; 08 April 2017 at 09:37 PM.
Old 08 April 2017, 10:11 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by captainlip
So interestingly on the way back from manchester my suspicions were confirmed, it was struggling up the revs and wasnt smooth power delivery, today in 4th accelerated upto 5000rpm then bam big misfire, and check engine light has come on and stayed on. messaged andy and he replied promptly which was good. he said possible boost control pipes? but inspecting under the hood cant find a thing untowards. its a pig to drive and feels like its overboosting, lacking air or cutting fuel.

ive just ordered silicone intake pipe, picking up STI TMIC tuesday just need induction kit, do you think a 3 port will help andy in this case to map it easier? I dont want to be going back and fourth.

any advice be great.
A 3 port bcs will be better for boost control at the top end of boost.
One thing to make sure you do tho is refrain from calling a bonnet a 'hood' unless you're a yank?
Even if you are a yank then it's not a hood unless you wear it on your head
Old 09 April 2017, 12:45 AM
  #84  
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As above. 3 port will help control the turbo better. Certainly recommended to fit. Do boost pipes, intercooler and scoop undertray.

Don't bother with induction kit as already said loads of times.
Old 09 April 2017, 10:01 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
as above, 3rd on 5 speed, 4th on 6 speed.
Does that go the same for a Dyno run ?
Old 09 April 2017, 11:08 AM
  #86  
captainlip
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This is the pipe ive just bought, do I need anything else?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1720038044...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

what about these with 3 port?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5M-4mm-I...3D130908015199

Last edited by captainlip; 09 April 2017 at 11:19 AM.
Old 09 April 2017, 08:25 PM
  #87  
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Along with the 3port ive been looking at the possibility of changing the actuator to a forged actuator. Ive notice these have different spring rates so how do i choose which to get. im just trying to iron out why im overboosting and getting fuel cut so much.

This is what ive been looking at, how easy are they to swap over with the turbo in place.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forge-Moto...wAAOSwOgdYvXbi

Last edited by captainlip; 09 April 2017 at 08:42 PM.
Old 09 April 2017, 08:48 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by SmurfyBhoy
Does that go the same for a Dyno run ?
Yep. It's due to gear ratios and wheel speed iirc
Old 09 April 2017, 09:33 PM
  #89  
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Why are you changing the air intake house shown in your 1st link? It's pointless at your power level. This won't be holding you back. Please read the posts various members have spent their time writing on your thread based on experience.

STI TMIC, intercooler silicone hoses, STI scoop under tray, Scoobyworx SWRD 3 port. That's all you will need at your power level.

I will say yet again, you don't need an induction kit or silicone turbo air intake hose as shown in your link.

The end. I give up.
Old 09 April 2017, 09:34 PM
  #90  
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The forge actuator is worth getting if it turns out your actuator is at fault. They are good bits of kit.



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