and andys advice was airflow, its lacking getting air in. and possible pipe collapsing. if its achievable I will do it. im not set anymore on the 350hp figure, im set on trying to stopp it feeling like it hits a wall at 5000rpm, I want it to be able to hold the boost for longer. hence sti top mount and induction going to be ordered.

 

I think the first point of call is put on STI top mount with the silicone hoses, as this doesnt need a map tweak apparently and will see if it can hold boost a little longer. if it does its a winner and ill leave it at that. if not ill put induction kit on and try another remap.

 

Did you have it mapped maffless? If so i belive that it wont need a map tweak

 

Why not?

 

In my experience you get the nice low down torque from a 2.5 but it's never going to rev like a 2.0 unless you have a monster turbo mine has a lm500 and I still find I need to change gear earlier than had to have with my previous 2.0 cars.
What cars have you owned previously you may need to change your driving style I know I've had to change earlier and ride the torque rather than reving the **** off it.

 

Because if andrew has mapped it maffless then he would of used a speed density sensor fitted to the tmic so fitting a c.a.i kit shouldnt need a tweak. I maybe wrong tho

 

An IAT sensor is set up to compensate for the different intake temps,I wouldn't have thought it compensates for the extra volume of air being introduced.
Fuel,timing and boost will all need a tweak,I'm no expert tho,just the way I see it.

 

Would need tweak
Andrew uses the maf to read intake temps only although running mafless in my past experience with the gentleman

 

So someone elsewhere has ripped this map apart says its not safe to drive, the cross over point should be 5200rpm. any thoughts on this?

 

Also saying actuator fecked, would this not be diagnosed on a remap?

 

Who is the someone else?

 

Just someone from one of the FB scooby pages says he has had alot of cars mapped insists needs 3-4 hours per remap.

 

BHP and torque are crossing at 5250 rpm.

 

Unless it was someone who really knew there stuff i personally wouldn't take any notice.

 

Think hes just being a retard, he must have been looking at the other graph.

 

Name and shame I say

 

You will find my post easily on the facebook subaru impreza owners uk page

 

Put a link up

 

wont let me post a link odd

 

Ignore anyone from a FB group in my experience.

Trust what Andy Carr says too. He knows what he's on about.

Don't worry about the wastegate crack, most VF turbos end up with this and it makes no difference at all to how the turbo performs.

If it were me I'd fit an STI TMIC, STI scoop under tray, decent 3 port (like the SWRD Pierberg unit) and have Andy map it again. Job done!


If it's still not holding boost then change the actuator.

Have you upgraded your brakes yet?

 

Well Andys mapped a few cars for me which prob took him an hour or so, and I do several track days and go to the ring a few times a year with no issues and cars go well, matched against any other scoobies mapped by anyone else, sadly I'm not on facef@ck or I'd go on there and say the same Cheers Rob

 

So interestingly on the way back from manchester my suspicions were confirmed, it was struggling up the revs and wasnt smooth power delivery, today in 4th accelerated upto 5000rpm then bam big misfire, and check engine light has come on and stayed on. messaged andy and he replied promptly which was good. he said possible boost control pipes? but inspecting under the hood cant find a thing untowards. its a pig to drive and feels like its overboosting, lacking air or cutting fuel.

ive just ordered silicone intake pipe, picking up STI TMIC tuesday just need induction kit, do you think a 3 port will help andy in this case to map it easier? I dont want to be going back and fourth.

any advice be great.

 

A 3 port bcs will be better for boost control at the top end of boost.
One thing to make sure you do tho is refrain from calling a bonnet a 'hood' unless you're a yank?
Even if you are a yank then it's not a hood unless you wear it on your head

 

As above. 3 port will help control the turbo better. Certainly recommended to fit. Do boost pipes, intercooler and scoop undertray.

Don't bother with induction kit as already said loads of times.

 

Does that go the same for a Dyno run ?

 

This is the pipe ive just bought, do I need anything else?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1720038044...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

what about these with 3 port?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5M-4mm-I...3D130908015199

 

Along with the 3port ive been looking at the possibility of changing the actuator to a forged actuator. Ive notice these have different spring rates so how do i choose which to get. im just trying to iron out why im overboosting and getting fuel cut so much.

This is what ive been looking at, how easy are they to swap over with the turbo in place.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forge-Moto...wAAOSwOgdYvXbi

 

Yep. It's due to gear ratios and wheel speed iirc

 

Why are you changing the air intake house shown in your 1st link? It's pointless at your power level. This won't be holding you back. Please read the posts various members have spent their time writing on your thread based on experience.

STI TMIC, intercooler silicone hoses, STI scoop under tray, Scoobyworx SWRD 3 port. That's all you will need at your power level.

I will say yet again, you don't need an induction kit or silicone turbo air intake hose as shown in your link.

The end. I give up.

 

The forge actuator is worth getting if it turns out your actuator is at fault. They are good bits of kit.