Pic showing the chipped wheel:

 

I'm thinking I might put a billet wheel in as you can pick them up for £70-80 and give it a re build anyway so it's fresh when it goes on, the parts to re build it aren't that much.

 

I look forward to seeing the torque after remap

 

That's a shame about the wheel, I hope everything is ok between you and the seller?
I have a 20g cartridge here (no exhaust housing) if you want it for bits or even use the whole thing? Much cheapness

 

Going to sort this one out. Not spoken to the seller, can't be arsed. The price I paid is still cheap for an Andy Forrest 20G anyway.

 

The only andy forrest bits are the compressor wheel and cover, the wheels broken. The rest of the turbo is the same as the 16g you are currently running.
I'll be interested to see how it performs with a Chinese billet compressor wheel on it.

 

The rest isn't the same as my 16G, the CHRA is machined for the 20G superback wheel, it's also a genuine MHI CHRA which are made to far better spec than the Chinese turbos and of a better material. The only parts that are the same as my 16G is the exhaust housing and the turbine shaft.

I've not decided what wheel I'm going to put on it as yet as there are a lot of options blade wise and a lot of companies to choose from.

 

I see, I hope you get it all sorted out.
Didn't realise mitsubishi turbos were component balanced, so I could go and buy a billet wheel for mine and just bolt it on with no balance problems at all?

 

As long as the wheel comes pre balanced (which all that I've seen do) then yes.

 

Yeah looking at a Taiwanese kinugawa wheel, although the "Taiwanese" turbos do seen to smell a bit like the Chinese ones! They look the same, using the same piping, red rubber seals on the compressor cover, same wastegate actuators etc. How would you possibly be able to tell the difference?

 

At the moment I'm doing some research about the number of blades, extended tips etc before I decide on mine. I could just slap a normal cast 20G wheel on, but might as well upgrade it. I'm also getting a Genuine MHI rebuild kit for it as I don't trust the ebay ones .

 

Extended tip is very much like a bigger inducer dia, only that you do not increase lag with extended tip, a bigger inducer will increase lag.
It also widens the compressor map, allowing more boost near the surge limit, without surge.
Both are only small improvements, but improvements never the less.
As for eBay rebuild kits, I'm
Sure even garrett/mitsubishi/holset are all made in china now anyway, it's only three brass bushes and two cast iron piston rings, very little to go wrong in the first place, if they are a nice tight fit when new they should last many thousands of miles. I have even made my own journal bearings before out of brass on the lathe, no probs at all.

 

It's not a massive amount more for a Genuine MHI kit though, so I think I'll go with that.

 

I'm sure the Chinese know how to spell mitsubishi!
I was £14 for my rebuild kit, that was 2000 miles ago now, no smoke or problems to report to date. If something did go wrong then I would probably only blame myself for rebuilding it incorrectly, not the brass bushes.
I made sure all the rotating parts were marked before disassembly and were rebuilt in the exact same orientation, as I have done with every other turbo I've rebuilt. As far as I was aware they are dynamically balanced as a complete assembly, but your information source says different? Most are actually balanced built up inside the cartridge, being spun up by compressed air.

 

MHI turbo's are component balanced, that's why each component has it's own balancing marks, if they were balanced as a complete assembly you would see grinding marks in the nut that holds the compressor wheel on.

 

Is that the case? All turbos have grinding to the exhaust wheel ti balance it, yet right enough I have seen some with nuts that are ground, some with ground compressor wheels and some with both nut and compressor wheel ground. What's your source for the information? It does make sense right enough

 

Read this as it explains the process: http://www.turborebuild.co.uk/turbo-balancing.html

I've never seen an MHI turbo with a ground compressor nut, the compressor wheel yes. The turbine yes as that's one complete component.

 

I'll go read it. I've not seen a ground but on one either. Garrett's yep, holsets can't remember.

 

This boy's adamant on a balance;
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=175347&t=175347

 

Well it won't do him any harm, it's just not required.

 

How's progress with the turbo rebuild? 👍

 

Not touched it yet.

 

Wheel on it's way accross the water?

 

Not ordered anything yet. Not in a mad rush, car has it's MOT at the start of next month so I want it to get through that first.

 

Gave the car a service yesterday, new Millers CFS 10w50, new OEM Black filter and put the plugs in I bought a few weeks ago. K&N Panel could use a clean so might do that in the next few weeks.

Gaps on the old plugs looked OK, but they had ash deposits on them which probably wasn't helping as it feels noticeably more perky with the new plugs in the mid range. All 4 looked identical though which is nice.

 

MOT is due on the 10th of October, once it's passed that 20Gage can commence. I'll be ordering the rebuild kit and wheel for the turbo shortly, then I'll want a Decat downpipe that's 3" to 2.5", a silicone intake hose, plus a map .

I do keep getting tempted by Supra's just lately though, though I have no idea what I would sell this car for, obviously I won't get back anything like I've spent on it. Maybe I'll just keep it, sell the Mondeo and have a Supra and a Wagon lol.

 

A close mate has a mk4 supra, 4.0 V8 with a GT4088 turbo on it, very fast once you get grip! Useless in the wet or even slightly damp conditions, even in the dry it spins up through 2nd!

 

Right pulled the trigger on a Billet Wheel, going for a 7+7 wheel vs the normal 6+6 wheel as it seemed a good option after some reading.

Also ordered a Genuine MHI rebuild kit to freshen it up.

 

What's the idea with more blades? Faster spool with the trade off of less flow?
I know holsets flow more with less blades, but Are slower to spool.

 

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm