Doing full brake fluid change
#1
Doing full brake fluid change
Right guys, planning on fitting my new discs and pads this weekend along with braided hoses and new fluid.
Wondering what is the best procedure for doing a complete brake fluid change as I have only ever bled them before and topped them up?
Thanks
Wondering what is the best procedure for doing a complete brake fluid change as I have only ever bled them before and topped them up?
Thanks
#5
Scooby Regular
if you have a decent sized syringe you can suck all the old fluid (most anyhows) out of the resevoir, fill with nice and fresh and then bleed through as normal........
DO NOT be tempted to listen to people who advise "draining down" first as this just potentially uses far more fluid and more potential air/bleeding problems unless your adept at it
alyn
DO NOT be tempted to listen to people who advise "draining down" first as this just potentially uses far more fluid and more potential air/bleeding problems unless your adept at it
alyn
#6
Alyn, do you stock super blue fluid? used to find flushing through with this loads easyer as you can see when the old stuff has been replaced by the new blue during bleeding!
My old boss used to alternate between the blue and standard to visually check the bleed.... came in handy!
My old boss used to alternate between the blue and standard to visually check the bleed.... came in handy!
#7
Charlie From PFC
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Banbury
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We have just got some new pressure bleeders that are very easy to use and really effective, please see the instructions below. Let me know if you’re interested and I can work out a ScoobyNet Members price for you.
We also have Race fluid with the highest boiling point of any that meets DOT4 and professional bleed bottles all of which are very high quality and available at excellent prices with ScoobyNet discounts.
Regards,
Charlie
Brake Pressure Bleeder Instructions
1, Ensure that the bleeder reservoir is full of fluid from a freshly opened bottle of Performance Friction RH665 fluid (bleeder is not suitable for mineral based fluids). Check that the reservoir float has risen then secure the lid (do not over tighten).
2, Place the bleeder next to the vehicle and unwind the power cable ensure that the on/off switch is set to the off position. Connect to the vehicle 12V battery or a remote slave battery (ensure the correct polarity connection).
3, Remove the vehicle reservoir cap and fit the correct bleeder cap ensuring that the fluid level is above the end of silicone dip tube of the bleeder cap.
4, Carefully unwind the bleeder hose and connect to the fitting on the cap. Turn the valve to position ‘1’ and turn power switch on. The pump will run for approx 15 seconds until the correct pressure is reached and then cut out. If the pump continues to run check all connections for leaks. Occasionally there can be an air lock in the bleeder but this can be cleared by turning the valve to position ‘0’ for a few seconds. Return the valve to position ‘1’ and check that the pump stops after approx 15 seconds.
5, You can now bleed the system using the Performance Friction bleed bottle 026.0001 with micro bore silicone hose for PFC style bleed nipples. Bleeding can be carried out in any order but it is usually best to start with the nearest point to the reservoir first. The bleeder will maintain the fluid level in the system, if the bleeder fluid level drops too low the pump will cut out and the bleeder reservoir will need to be replenished (this does not introduce air into the system).
6, When bleeding has finished switch off the pump and turn the valve to postion’0’, wait for 30 seconds for the fluid to drain back to the bleeder reservoir. Once hose has drained the fluid level will return to the original level in the vehicle reservoir and the valve can be returned to the ‘1’ position to prevent siphoning of fluid.
7, The cap connector can then be disconnected from the cap and cap removed being careful not to spill any fluid, then replace the vehicle reservoir cap.
We also have Race fluid with the highest boiling point of any that meets DOT4 and professional bleed bottles all of which are very high quality and available at excellent prices with ScoobyNet discounts.
Regards,
Charlie
Brake Pressure Bleeder Instructions
1, Ensure that the bleeder reservoir is full of fluid from a freshly opened bottle of Performance Friction RH665 fluid (bleeder is not suitable for mineral based fluids). Check that the reservoir float has risen then secure the lid (do not over tighten).
2, Place the bleeder next to the vehicle and unwind the power cable ensure that the on/off switch is set to the off position. Connect to the vehicle 12V battery or a remote slave battery (ensure the correct polarity connection).
3, Remove the vehicle reservoir cap and fit the correct bleeder cap ensuring that the fluid level is above the end of silicone dip tube of the bleeder cap.
4, Carefully unwind the bleeder hose and connect to the fitting on the cap. Turn the valve to position ‘1’ and turn power switch on. The pump will run for approx 15 seconds until the correct pressure is reached and then cut out. If the pump continues to run check all connections for leaks. Occasionally there can be an air lock in the bleeder but this can be cleared by turning the valve to position ‘0’ for a few seconds. Return the valve to position ‘1’ and check that the pump stops after approx 15 seconds.
5, You can now bleed the system using the Performance Friction bleed bottle 026.0001 with micro bore silicone hose for PFC style bleed nipples. Bleeding can be carried out in any order but it is usually best to start with the nearest point to the reservoir first. The bleeder will maintain the fluid level in the system, if the bleeder fluid level drops too low the pump will cut out and the bleeder reservoir will need to be replenished (this does not introduce air into the system).
6, When bleeding has finished switch off the pump and turn the valve to postion’0’, wait for 30 seconds for the fluid to drain back to the bleeder reservoir. Once hose has drained the fluid level will return to the original level in the vehicle reservoir and the valve can be returned to the ‘1’ position to prevent siphoning of fluid.
7, The cap connector can then be disconnected from the cap and cap removed being careful not to spill any fluid, then replace the vehicle reservoir cap.
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#8
if you have a decent sized syringe you can suck all the old fluid (most anyhows) out of the resevoir, fill with nice and fresh and then bleed through as normal........
DO NOT be tempted to listen to people who advise "draining down" first as this just potentially uses far more fluid and more potential air/bleeding problems unless your adept at it
alyn
DO NOT be tempted to listen to people who advise "draining down" first as this just potentially uses far more fluid and more potential air/bleeding problems unless your adept at it
alyn
Thanks
#9
Not if when you are changing out your hoses for braided, you pop off the reservoir cap, and tightly stretch some cling film over the top, this will help stop the draw of fluid through the lines, at least enough for you to swap hoses with minimal loss, then just bleed as normal after they are all in situ.
#10
Not if when you are changing out your hoses for braided, you pop off the reservoir cap, and tightly stretch some cling film over the top, this will help stop the draw of fluid through the lines, at least enough for you to swap hoses with minimal loss, then just bleed as normal after they are all in situ.
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IanG1983
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22 September 2015 09:47 PM