Hydraulic handbrake on a classic??
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Hydraulic handbrake on a classic??
Hi guys,
Just did i quick search but did not come up with an exact answer. Just wondering if anyone on here has fitted a hydraulic handbrake to there classic? I've seen a kit on the bay of e that converts it from cable just after the handbrake but that means it would still use the cables from there back - not sure if that will really make much difference?
I'm asking as i only use my car for track days and having fun in, it is no longer used on the road and the standard handbrake it shocking
Just did i quick search but did not come up with an exact answer. Just wondering if anyone on here has fitted a hydraulic handbrake to there classic? I've seen a kit on the bay of e that converts it from cable just after the handbrake but that means it would still use the cables from there back - not sure if that will really make much difference?
I'm asking as i only use my car for track days and having fun in, it is no longer used on the road and the standard handbrake it shocking
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you'll need to re-pipe the system, when I did mine i removed the whole ABS, T'd the fronts from the master cylinder then ran the pipe down the transmission tunnel including a bias valve in the line before the hydraulic handbrake, after the handbrake the pipe is T'd to run to each rear caliper, all the stock handbrake parts (cables, shoes etc) can be ditched as the handbrake now operates via the caliper and not the drum.
If you do this the car will not pass the mot so should you want to return it to road use the stock HB would need to be re-fitted.
If you do this the car will not pass the mot so should you want to return it to road use the stock HB would need to be re-fitted.
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the cable isn't the only issue, most hydrualic handbrakes are the 'flyoff' type, the MOT requires the handbrake to be able to be locked on for parking, so the the std lever would need to be refitted if the car was to be MOT'd
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I guess you could use a bangy or jam a bit of wood under it but either way it's not a very elegant solution, also strictly speaking any car with factory fitted ABS should have a warning light that goes off after a few seconds indicating a fully functioning ABS system (even if it’s not) if the warning light doesn’t operate in the correct fashion MOT fail
Last edited by budd; 07 February 2011 at 08:35 AM.
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Thanks budd, that is very helpfull. I have ditched the abs anyway & fitted a manual bias valve so sounds like i can just modify it easily to a new handbrake set up. Just out of interest, do you have any pictures of you're set up?
Regarding MOT, this will never be a problem as it will never be used on the road again. Insurance is way too high along with road tax. Plus i don't see the point in having a fast road car when you are restricted by speed limits all the time. I'd rather just use my van or mrs car for the road & keep mine for track day fun.
Regarding MOT, this will never be a problem as it will never be used on the road again. Insurance is way too high along with road tax. Plus i don't see the point in having a fast road car when you are restricted by speed limits all the time. I'd rather just use my van or mrs car for the road & keep mine for track day fun.
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#11
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if the std one is adjusted correctly it works without issue and a lot of the rally cars we look after run like this due to requiring the original set-up to comply with certain regs (incl. MOT)
as for fitting a hydraulic one then simply "T" into the rear lines.............
alyn
as for fitting a hydraulic one then simply "T" into the rear lines.............
alyn
#12
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It's very easy to fit , I did it on my type R rally car , I Teed the 2 rear pipes into one , put the one pipe through the hydraulic handbrake , teed it back into the 2 lines going to the rear wheels and it worked perfectly , you could just blank one of the pipes off at the master cylinder and run one pipe from there to the handbrake , then the pipe coming out of the handbrake tee it off to go to both back wheels.
If you use it a lot , you will end up burning out the centre diff , to do it properly like in my rally car , you need a DCCD centre diff , so you can wire it in to open the diff when the handbrake is operated
Cheers Ian
If you use it a lot , you will end up burning out the centre diff , to do it properly like in my rally car , you need a DCCD centre diff , so you can wire it in to open the diff when the handbrake is operated
Cheers Ian
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Just to add , a hydraulic handbrake is not road legal , it will not hold when parked up for any length of time , I found if you left the handbrake on over night you lost the pressure in the system and could push the car ! So would never have left it parked on a hill overnight !
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Hi Jamz, I do at the moment but looking into all options for the future. Been on a few handling days with tutors also, they are good fun and cheaper also. That's where i found my handbrake to be ineffective.
Thanks for all you're help guys. As for not having a handbrake, it lives in a level garage, plus you could just leave it in gear anyway if you needed to.
Thanks for all you're help guys. As for not having a handbrake, it lives in a level garage, plus you could just leave it in gear anyway if you needed to.
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Thanks budd, that is very helpfull. I have ditched the abs anyway & fitted a manual bias valve so sounds like i can just modify it easily to a new handbrake set up. Just out of interest, do you have any pictures of you're set up?
Regarding MOT, this will never be a problem as it will never be used on the road again. Insurance is way too high along with road tax. Plus i don't see the point in having a fast road car when you are restricted by speed limits all the time. I'd rather just use my van or mrs car for the road & keep mine for track day fun.
Regarding MOT, this will never be a problem as it will never be used on the road again. Insurance is way too high along with road tax. Plus i don't see the point in having a fast road car when you are restricted by speed limits all the time. I'd rather just use my van or mrs car for the road & keep mine for track day fun.
Plus my in laws live in the Isle of Man so we get over there quite a lot and it’s one of the only places in the world with lots of lovely speed limit free roads it would be rude not to exploit them, but I take your point about not been able to use cars to their full in here in the UK.
here's couple of pics taken today (sorry about the quality camera phone)
the above shows how I've routed the line to the rear, it goes directly from the master cylinder through the baulkhead and down the transmission tunnel to the bias valve, after the bias valve it used to go to the handbrake and then on to be T'd to each rear caliper. The intention is to get it MOT'd and then re-fit the hydraulic hand brake, I'll make the section of pipe between the bias valve and the rear T piece (shown below) interchangable with the hydrualic handbrake it should then be a relitively simple job, (remove OE handbrake, swap out the section of pipe with the hydraulic one and bleed up).
I'm having to redo the rear section anyway due to fitting a swirl pot and some welded in bracing so it made sense to re think the rear piping, I'd even considered retaining cable set up along side the hydraulic one but it looked a bit cluttered so I settled on been able to switch between the two, whether I leave the cables and shoes in place I haven't decided yet.
Last edited by budd; 08 February 2011 at 08:31 PM.
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