K-Sport
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K-Sport
Ive had my 330mm 8 pots fitted since Feb and i love them, there were run in as instructed. never tracked. Ive noticed once or twice i will get alot of vibration through the wheel, then the next time there can be fine,
Any Ideas
Any Ideas
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Bren at Apex posted this to my reply for running them in etc.....
If theyre being used with anew kit then its the rotors that need bedding in more than the pads. Do a couple of hundred miles gradually increasing the braking force used over the period of time. After a couple of hundred miles you can start leaning on the brakes harder and harder.
Dont just do 200 motorways miles and then hammer the brakes. Its important to run the rotors through steadily increasing heat cyles so you dont thermal shock the rotors. Motorway miles dont put any heat into the brakes so dont count.
Try to avoid coming to a complete stop when you get the brakes hot hot hot and avoid like the plaugue coming to a stop with hot hot brakes and sitting there with your foot on the pedal. This will encourage pad transfer to the rotor face leading to a high spot and then vibration.
If theyre being used with anew kit then its the rotors that need bedding in more than the pads. Do a couple of hundred miles gradually increasing the braking force used over the period of time. After a couple of hundred miles you can start leaning on the brakes harder and harder.
Dont just do 200 motorways miles and then hammer the brakes. Its important to run the rotors through steadily increasing heat cyles so you dont thermal shock the rotors. Motorway miles dont put any heat into the brakes so dont count.
Try to avoid coming to a complete stop when you get the brakes hot hot hot and avoid like the plaugue coming to a stop with hot hot brakes and sitting there with your foot on the pedal. This will encourage pad transfer to the rotor face leading to a high spot and then vibration.
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Bren at Apex posted this to my reply for running them in etc.....
If theyre being used with anew kit then its the rotors that need bedding in more than the pads. Do a couple of hundred miles gradually increasing the braking force used over the period of time. After a couple of hundred miles you can start leaning on the brakes harder and harder.
Dont just do 200 motorways miles and then hammer the brakes. Its important to run the rotors through steadily increasing heat cyles so you dont thermal shock the rotors. Motorway miles dont put any heat into the brakes so dont count.
Try to avoid coming to a complete stop when you get the brakes hot hot hot and avoid like the plaugue coming to a stop with hot hot brakes and sitting there with your foot on the pedal. This will encourage pad transfer to the rotor face leading to a high spot and then vibration.
If theyre being used with anew kit then its the rotors that need bedding in more than the pads. Do a couple of hundred miles gradually increasing the braking force used over the period of time. After a couple of hundred miles you can start leaning on the brakes harder and harder.
Dont just do 200 motorways miles and then hammer the brakes. Its important to run the rotors through steadily increasing heat cyles so you dont thermal shock the rotors. Motorway miles dont put any heat into the brakes so dont count.
Try to avoid coming to a complete stop when you get the brakes hot hot hot and avoid like the plaugue coming to a stop with hot hot brakes and sitting there with your foot on the pedal. This will encourage pad transfer to the rotor face leading to a high spot and then vibration.
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I've got K-Sports all around, i had balancing done on all 4s and there is still a minor vibration in the steering wheel all the time, i've put it down to nothing will ever be perfect and maybe them sitting slightly wrong, whether it's my fitting or just aftermarket parts i don't know, got to rememebr they are cheap compared to say API!
I'm going to take them off and refit them again, give all the surfaces a even better clean and i have a new torque rench now i'm going to use. Going to see how this goes but if not i'm not bothered, they work and i've fitted them as well as i can and as well as a garage could, so...
What exactly happens, is it when turning, straight line, both?
Out of interest do you notice that there is brake fluid around your caliper nipples?
Thanks
Sam
I'm going to take them off and refit them again, give all the surfaces a even better clean and i have a new torque rench now i'm going to use. Going to see how this goes but if not i'm not bothered, they work and i've fitted them as well as i can and as well as a garage could, so...
What exactly happens, is it when turning, straight line, both?
Out of interest do you notice that there is brake fluid around your caliper nipples?
Thanks
Sam
Last edited by Saalro; 03 December 2010 at 02:19 PM.
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We don't do 'cheap' brakes they tend to have problems similar to the ones you are experiencing..........................
#6
Of course you do.
Vibration can be down to one of many factors. Excessive rotor run out, pad deposits, wheel bearing wear, ball joint play, distorted wheel hub face etc. Ive even seen wheel weights knocked off of the inside of wheel by the larger kit causing wheel vibration.
The first stage when diagnosing an issue is to look at rotor run out. Ideally every kit should be installed with a perfectly clean hub face and a dial guage. The rotor is installed, run out checked, rotate the rotor one stud, reinstall, record run out etc. The rotor is then installed in the position to give the least recorded run out.
However thats a relatively specialist job. Id start with the basics and check rod ends, ball joints and that the wheels are balanced.
#7
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have to disagree with you Bren (although agree with most of what you have written)
the rotor run-out is THE most important part of the install and everything after that is secondary
without a true disc you will never achieve a lack of vibration
alyn
the rotor run-out is THE most important part of the install and everything after that is secondary
without a true disc you will never achieve a lack of vibration
alyn
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#8
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Bren, I wasn't having a pop at you, I react badly when people make comments that suggests we are expensive. We aren't.
We don't use Tarox any more, we don't use EBC, don't ask, Alcons could never be described as cheap. We have used K sport and I do find them great value for money.
AP's are faultless, NEVER had a problem, fit first time, work at extreme conditions and are, despite the price, great value for money.
Apologies if you read me wrong, no slur intended.
David APi
We don't use Tarox any more, we don't use EBC, don't ask, Alcons could never be described as cheap. We have used K sport and I do find them great value for money.
AP's are faultless, NEVER had a problem, fit first time, work at extreme conditions and are, despite the price, great value for money.
Apologies if you read me wrong, no slur intended.
David APi
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There's nothing wrong with the latest EBC stuff. Amazing how biased and hard it is to lose a negative image once obtained. There are loads of people now using the new Yellows, Blues and me on the new Reds.
Have you actually used the new Blues?
Have you actually used the new Blues?
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EBC, OK here goes:
We were keen on them a few years back, but did have issues with pad fade on the reds and the yellows. Never did use green. But the killer for us was with their ' new ' [ then ] replacement discs for Brembos, spotted and grooved.
We fitted a set to a car with all the professional expertise you'd expect. 400 miles later they are buckled.
Contact to EBC brought the question " when you fitted them did you use copperslip on the location for the discs?"
" Of course we did."
"Ah! there's the problem you shouldn't do that" "fit them clean and dry."
So we bought another set at a cost to us of about £450.00. Fitted properly all clean, but no copperslip.
400 miles - ish buckled again.
Call to EBC, got to speak to the other of two salesman this time, as my first contact was out.
Again the question " when you fitted them - did you use copperslip on the location for the discs?"
" No "
"Ah! there's the problem you must use copperslip "
l pointed out that they had told us not to and the set we fitted with, had behaved as badly as the ones without. So one set must be faulty, let me have some under guarantee please.
No, no interested, got nowhere, wasted my time, got angry. Never been back.
Fitted AP's, Q E D
David
#13
No problem
The new Bluestuff are worth a look, they are now a good product for the money.
We have had an extremely small number of KSport pads where the material has come away from the backing plate, maybe four instances out of 15,000+ individual pads sold (four pads per kit). Its not what could be considered a regular occourance.
Either way we no longer buy any pads from the factory, we now purchase our default pads from another pad supplier. These pads are available only through KSport UK.
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I've got K-Sports all around, i had balancing done on all 4s and there is still a minor vibration in the steering wheel all the time, i've put it down to nothing will ever be perfect and maybe them sitting slightly wrong, whether it's my fitting or just aftermarket parts i don't know, got to rememebr they are cheap compared to say API!
I'm going to take them off and refit them again, give all the surfaces a even better clean and i have a new torque rench now i'm going to use. Going to see how this goes but if not i'm not bothered, they work and i've fitted them as well as i can and as well as a garage could, so...
What exactly happens, is it when turning, straight line, both?
Out of interest do you notice that there is brake fluid around your caliper nipples?
Thanks
Sam
I'm going to take them off and refit them again, give all the surfaces a even better clean and i have a new torque rench now i'm going to use. Going to see how this goes but if not i'm not bothered, they work and i've fitted them as well as i can and as well as a garage could, so...
What exactly happens, is it when turning, straight line, both?
Out of interest do you notice that there is brake fluid around your caliper nipples?
Thanks
Sam
Thanks
Sam
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Blimmy,
I didn't mean to start a war, Im currently running the stock K-sport pads as at the time i couldn't afford the extra money, The vibration happens rarely one time u can brake and its ok next time on same road it will vibrate
I didn't mean to start a war, Im currently running the stock K-sport pads as at the time i couldn't afford the extra money, The vibration happens rarely one time u can brake and its ok next time on same road it will vibrate
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