stevo1970

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to refurb my spare standard six spoke UK wheels. I will be painting them matt black, I have a couple of questions.

How do I retain the matt effect of the paint if I coat them with clear lacquer?

How many coats of paint/lacquer do I give each wheel?

What is the best tool to use to get the flakey paint off with a drill or angle grinder each with wire brush attachment?

Is there a full guide to this job anywhere on here?

Thanks

BULLITT

Matt paint generally isn't lacquered I think, though you can actually buy Matt lacquer but it is quite soft even when dry and marks easily.

r1c

iTrader: (9)

I am in the middle of refurbing my rota's, I didn't remove the old paint just keyed it off using scotch Brite could use steel wool. Nothing too much just enough to allow the new primer to bind. I put 3 coats of primer on nice and thick then flagged out all the crap. Just deciding on the colour now. Will be 3 or 4 coats of colour and about the same lacquer,

nicklouse10

not sure about rattle cans, but is you're spraying 2 Pac paint from a gun, you can buy a matting agent that you can add to the lacquer which prevents it from making your colour finish shiny. If you use normal lacquer over Matt paint it will end up gloss

like Rich says, you don't need to lacquer Matt paint. I recently painted a car in Matt and didn't lacquer it. It looks fine. see photo.

As for number of coats. I did about a litre of paint on the set of 17" wheels in the pic. I can't remember exactly how many coats that was. probably about 6 I think.
post some photos when you're done
cheers
Nick

nicklouse10

as for the best way of prepping them for primer, it really depends on how corroded they are. if they are bad, then you might need a wire wheel or similar drill attachment. if they aren't that bad, you should be able to just use sand paper

shaunyboyuk

If you build up enough coats then it will be fine providing its cured. Best method is 3 dusty coats with 7 - 10 min intervals then 1 - 2 wet coats with arround 20 mins betweeen being carefull not to get runs, its all about technique and prep, As said if you was painting using 2k HS (high solids) you can use a matting agent.

scotty2hottie

i have always used the following method:

started off with 60 sandpaper went on to 120, 400, 600, 800 and finished on 1200.

You dont need to rub too much, just get off any roughness and the gloss. then spray with grey undercoat. about 3 layers always does me. allow to dry in between coats! i usually use a hairdryer to get it nice and dry. then finish with 3-4 layers of Matt spray paint. i use Halfords Matt spraypaint. its been on my scoob for over a year now with no probs.

nicklouse10

if you're using rattle cans then you should follow Scotty's method of getting progressively more fine grained with the sand paper because with the cans, it's more difficult to cover up the scoring left by the sanding (as opposed to using a gun). When you get up to P400, you can use wet-and-dry with plenty of warm water (put some washing up liquid in the water too, it helps lubricate and lift the paint you're sanding off)

If you are using 2-pac high build primer from a gun, you can get away with P60, then P120, then P240, then 3 or 4 progressively thicker coats of high-build primer, then flat back with P400, then put on the colour

I've been trying out some 3M sanding pads recently with really good results (P600 and P800). They are easier to get into corners than regular sand paper so are great for alloys. Not much good for heavy work, but great for flatting back primer

as others have said, it's all about the prep. The time you invest in preparation is directly proportional to how nice they will look when you're finished. Paint does not hide or cover up any flaws in the surface, actually the opposite is true, it accentuates any flaws and makes them more visible so it's well worth getting the surface as perfect as possible

best of luck Stevo... looking forward to seeing the results!
what colour is your car BTW?
Nick