Trackdays....Toe / Camber / Castor
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Trackdays....Toe / Camber / Castor
Just wondering if any of you guys deliberately run any of the above (ie Toe / Camber / Castor ) at any angle other than dead straight/dead centre, if you know what I mean.
I guess the downside may be increased or uneven tyre wear, but if you get a faster lap so what.
Any comments appreciated, thx.
MY98 JDM - original suspension, albeit WRX Type R V-Ltd, (non STI)
I guess the downside may be increased or uneven tyre wear, but if you get a faster lap so what.
Any comments appreciated, thx.
MY98 JDM - original suspension, albeit WRX Type R V-Ltd, (non STI)
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I was told to put more camber when on a dry track and less in the wet. My coilovers adjustable top mounts when set at 0 have been set to factory camber setting. Leaving adjustment to put more on in the dry
Last edited by Jeem; 05 January 2009 at 10:35 PM. Reason: had been drinking didnt finish typing
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The optimum camber will never be 0 deg. Factory setting is something like -1 deg and optimum handling (at the expense of some increased tyre wear on inner edges) will be -2 deg. And before you ask those numbers are not the right ones they're chosen for example only. No doubt this is a compromise for wet / dry as nobody except the WRC boys will take a full 4 wheel alignment kit when they go to the track and as soon as you change camber you need to reset tracking.
The optimum castor will again not be 0 deg. Factory setting will be something like -3 deg and optimum handling a bit more neg. Again not real numbers just an example.
The optimum toe in will once more not be straight ahead. As the car takes up drive all the bushes on the front suspension flex a little and the wheel moves either back or forward depending on fwd, rwd, 4wd. To get it in the optimum position when driving you dial in some initial angle when parked. For a road car nearly always a fraction of a degree of toe in, say 0.3 deg toe in.
For track use there are many tricks. Some real, some no doubt imaginary but all a comromise. For example in the wet karts run toe out as the tyre scrubbing puts more heat into the tyres so they perform better. For track use in a Caterham some run toe out as it makes it a bit unstable so it turns in better, the better turn in means better lap times even though it's worse on the straight.
The optimum castor will again not be 0 deg. Factory setting will be something like -3 deg and optimum handling a bit more neg. Again not real numbers just an example.
The optimum toe in will once more not be straight ahead. As the car takes up drive all the bushes on the front suspension flex a little and the wheel moves either back or forward depending on fwd, rwd, 4wd. To get it in the optimum position when driving you dial in some initial angle when parked. For a road car nearly always a fraction of a degree of toe in, say 0.3 deg toe in.
For track use there are many tricks. Some real, some no doubt imaginary but all a comromise. For example in the wet karts run toe out as the tyre scrubbing puts more heat into the tyres so they perform better. For track use in a Caterham some run toe out as it makes it a bit unstable so it turns in better, the better turn in means better lap times even though it's worse on the straight.
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Mmm, sounds like quite a technical area, with no one "this is best", but rather a whole minefield of tradeoffs.
When I bought 4 new road tyres, the tyre place "did the tracking" at the same time.
I wonder what angles they used, I presumed everything would be zero deg, but it appears "factory standard" may be somewhat different.
Toe looks like a nasty compromise, must be quite strange having an unstable car at high speed down a long straight ???
When I bought 4 new road tyres, the tyre place "did the tracking" at the same time.
I wonder what angles they used, I presumed everything would be zero deg, but it appears "factory standard" may be somewhat different.
Toe looks like a nasty compromise, must be quite strange having an unstable car at high speed down a long straight ???
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