cookstar

iTrader: (6)

Am going to be ordering a 330mm set from the group buy. Are these a simple to job to fit?

Will the brakes need to be bled after? If so is this difficult to do, have never done this before.

mattster12

iTrader: (5)

you will need to bleed the brakes after cause when you change the hoses for the ones in the kit some fluid will be lost.
The kit is easy to fit, 2 bolts to take off original caliper and take off disk and pads.
fit on the supplied bracket and then the new caliper to the new bracket, after the new disc of course.
Make sure that the new disk runs central in the caliper, use spacers if not that are supplied.

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

Thanks mate, whats the procedure for bleeding the brakes?

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

The same as any car.

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

I have never done any at all

RON

There are several ways that work, the way 'i' would do it, is to do one side at a time, with the wheel off, clamp the old rubber flexi pipe, ideally quite near the body, then remove the caliper and disc, this should leave you with the hub so you can mount the new caliper/disc, (at this point i will add, MAKE SURE THE BLEED NIPPLE IS AT THE TOP!!!!) do that, and mount the new flexi from the caliper and (i think) one bolt on the strut, then, as quickly as you can, i would disconnect the old flexi, and mount and connect the new one, this way, air can only enter the system for the shortest amount of time possible, once the unions are nipped up, i would top up the master cylinder, and have an assistant sit in the car, at the caliper, attach a piece of tube maybe a foot long to the bleed nipple, you'll need something like a jamjar with 1/2 inch of fluid in it, get the assistant to press on the brake pedal, it will almost certainly go right to the floor, at this point, undo the nipple about 1/4 turn, with the end of the pipe in the fluid in the jar, ask the assistant to gently, and not 'too' quickily pump the pedal, allowing it to go fully from the top of it's travel, to the bottom, in the jamjar you will get lots of air coming out of the tube, after about 12 pumps, tell the assistant to hold the pedal in the 'down' position, then nip up the bleed nipple, and top up the fluid in the reservoir...... then again, pressure on pedal, release and pump.... until you can see no traces of air or bubble coming out of the tube, when you're sure there is no air left, yet again, ask for the pedal to be held down, and nip up the nipple. what i then do, i wait for a few moments, then ask the assitant to press on the brake pedal, hopefully it will be firm, whilst there is pressure being held on the pedal, it's a good chance to check all the connection of the brake pipes that you've disturbed for leaks.... once you're happy you have no leaks, and a firm pedal, pat yourself on the back, replace the wheels, and do it all over again on the other side....

If you have any fears or doubts as to your ability to do this, find someone who's done it before..... brakes are actually quite important as far as safety goes apprently...!!!
One a side note, some insurance co's don;t like diy fitted brake upgrades...!!!

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reply, seems simple enough.

Ray T

To add to Ron's post

before you disconnect the flexipipes take of the lid of the brake res, then put some clingfilm over the hole and secure it tightly with an elastic band, this then limits the amount of fluid that escape from the system.


ray t

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Ah so looks like I need to replace the braided hoses, from ones used with 4 pots?

stockcar

from memory the Ksport lines are totally different in length..........pretty sure I have a spare new set to hand

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Ah ok let me know what you have, just contacting company that makes them up.

stockcar

these are genuine Ksport ones..........

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Ok let me know how much, not really fussed what brand. Thanks