brake pads
#1
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brake pads
whats the price to fit 2 front normal subaru brake pads?
been quoted from 150, is this normal? havent the first clue so help is appreciated
been quoted from 150, is this normal? havent the first clue so help is appreciated
Last edited by InvisibleMan; 30 January 2007 at 01:03 PM.
#2
Lad at a tyre shop fitted my 4 pot pads in 10 mins and charged £10. Pads cost £90. I watched him and he did everything right. He was trained by Mazda and fancied some beer money. Does the £150 include the pads?
#3
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I'm not a mechainc but it would take me 10-15 mins to do myself, that includes the jacking - it really is very simple and as long as you have no bits left at the end you can't go too far wrong.
You know you wanna do it...
You know you wanna do it...
#4
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I would like to know how to change the front pads on my 01 WRX. Is there a guide on the forum to give a step by step way of doing it.
I've changed loads of brake pads in my time on my cars in the past, but never changed them on the scoob. Always took it to local garage who would do it at a reasonable rate, problem now is I've moved down south to Surbiton/Kingston area and don't really know who to trust in doing it. I'm confident I can do it myself just could do with a bit more info.
Thanks, Jonny.
I've changed loads of brake pads in my time on my cars in the past, but never changed them on the scoob. Always took it to local garage who would do it at a reasonable rate, problem now is I've moved down south to Surbiton/Kingston area and don't really know who to trust in doing it. I'm confident I can do it myself just could do with a bit more info.
Thanks, Jonny.
#5
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They are no more complicated than any other car. You need a screwdriver, a hammer (or pliers) for the split pins and something to squeeze the pistons back into the callipers (I usually use a large screwdriver) and some copper grease.
Remove wheel, removed split pins, collect retaining spring if there is one, withdraw two pads (may require a bit of woggling), insert new pads with what ever shims come with them - or use old ones -and you may need to push the pistons back into the callipers to get them in (you may also squeeze brake fluid out of the reservoir if there is a big difference in thickness). Put copper grease on the back of the pads. Reapply retaining spring if there is one, insert split pins and open them up.
Wheel on with some grease, engine on, pump brake pedal a few times and off you go for a a bed in session as per pad manufacturers instructions.
Remove wheel, removed split pins, collect retaining spring if there is one, withdraw two pads (may require a bit of woggling), insert new pads with what ever shims come with them - or use old ones -and you may need to push the pistons back into the callipers to get them in (you may also squeeze brake fluid out of the reservoir if there is a big difference in thickness). Put copper grease on the back of the pads. Reapply retaining spring if there is one, insert split pins and open them up.
Wheel on with some grease, engine on, pump brake pedal a few times and off you go for a a bed in session as per pad manufacturers instructions.
#7
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Use old toothbrush to shift dirt out of caliper before pushing pads back so you dont risk scoring the pistons. You'd be surprised how much dirt is accumulated.
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#8
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Thanks for advice, not changed pads for some years, sounds straight forward.
Do I need to take lid off brake fluid reserviour when pushing pistons back in?
Cheers, Jonny
Do I need to take lid off brake fluid reserviour when pushing pistons back in?
Cheers, Jonny
#9
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Shouldn't need to (I don't) as it must have a vent, you could compromise by loosening it if not sure. Do watch out for it overflowing when you push the pistons back. I use a syringe to suck out any excess.
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