DaveL001

i have had aquick search on here but no luck, is it an easy job, ive got a p1, got new discs and pads to change all round
any help/guides would be great
cheers

Dyney

How to change pads



Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!

Please read the whole procedure before begining!!!!

I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership)

Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.

Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).

Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!

Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!

With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).

Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!

Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/greese or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)

If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.

Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more).

Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.

Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).

Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.

Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.

Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.

The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).

I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help

Dyney

And disk replacement guide


Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!

Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!

I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).

Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).

Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!

Now unbolt the calliper from the hub (these bolts will be very tight!! Make sure you use the correct size socket (you do not want to round these buggers off!!))
With the calliper removed the disk should come off if it doesn't give it a tap from behind with a mallet
Clean up the mounting surface of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to the surface of the hub (should stop it seizing on again)
Put new disk in place and bolt the calliper back on.
Clean both sides of the disk with brake cleaner.

Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more) Do not damage the new disk!!!!!!

Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help


It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!!

DaveL001

just finished doing them. ive got one question, though. i purchased the ebc redtuff ceramics in the group buy, and there are some stick on shims, supplied witht the pads. now what i done is apply these to pads as per the insructions, and then used only one of the orignal ones, the ones that the pistons press against? is this right or shpould i have used the ones supplied only, or should i have used the ones supplied and both the origianl ones?

gr1

just done mine today as well.also put on sticky shim plus silver coloured shim that piston presses onto.dunno if this is right,but would seem similar to what i took off.been for gentle test drive and everything feels good.
will watch and see what others think
cheers
graham

DaveL001

on my gentle test drive i got one clunk. i just hope and presume, that this was the pads settling in properly, and nothing serious, it didnt do it on any other test runs.
backs tomorrow.
now has anyone got a guide for doing the rears??

Nev_B

Dave

I gotta be honest, mine were done by my mechanic. However, I watched him do them, and from memory he only used the new shims, not the old ones.

There were no new shims for the rears, so he used the old ones.

Also, so far as I can remember, there is only 1 shim per pad.

If this is wrong, please correct me, but this is what I observed when mine were done.

Thanks

Nev

wideboyuk

Done the front pads no problem.
Need to do the rears now. What else do I need to be aware of (handbrake etc)?