Swiss Steve

as I'm not likely to do any track days in the near future but am doing some upgrades to the car including brakes, I'd like to have an uprated fast road pad that isn't so dirty on the wheels.
The standard pads are awful for this.

From what I've seen on another car with FERODO's - these seemed cleaner.

Comments / experience ?

Dave Coulshaw

Try EBC Kevlar/Green Stuff, they a reputed to be dust free. As far as know the ferrodo are no cleaner than the OE, Mintex, Pagid or any other pads.

Sith

Had EBC Green Stuff on me old Cav GSI, until one side blew up. (There is a reason.) They are top pads and do produce v low amounts of dust, but they wear quickly! My set only lasted about 4.5k, I tend to brake late and hard into corners

P.

phill chinn

i replaced the pads that came with my STI with 15,000 miles (no idea what they were) w th mintex, and the diffrence is great, better stopping power and a lot less dust.

Doc

rik.c
I think you have missed the point about brake temperatures. The temp of your brakes has nothing to do with your engine temp unless you put the pads on top of the engine
If your brakes do not work 100% the first time you hit them they are not safe on the public roads. What happens if you have been driving down a dual carriageway (i.e cold brakes) and someone pulls across the road in front of you?

rik.c

Swisssteve, Dave was right to advise you toward EBC but instead of using the gree stuff pads which are for lighter cars use the RED STUFF they produce less dust then the green's, stop you alot quicker and will last alot longer, the only down-fall is theree not 100% when cold but you should'nt be thrashing around on a cold engine anyway.

Ian Sutton

Doc I think Ric refers to the fact no one should drive over the 4000 rev point until the temperature guage is bang in the middle thus be going at a speed that the red stuff pads can cope with until they are warmed up enough.

well i understood Ric....Did I?

...Ian

rik.c

Cheers Ian i'm glad that my point was understood, as for Doc's comment about duel carrage way driving (ie:cold brakes), what about heat transfer from the friction of road-tyre not all the heat is dispersed i also learnt alot more when i did a National Diploma to become a vehicle technician

Sith

EBC.

Kempo

Is the job of changing pads one that can be done easily by someone who is, frankly, a novice? Presumably having sourced some pads any garage / scooby dealer would fit them for just the labour cost.

A friend of mine recommended the Green stuff pads as he fitted them to his 106 GTI though obviously as mentioned by Sith this is for a lighter car. Even after 1000 miles of driving in france there was very little brake dust on his alloys.

How long a job is it??

Danny Fisher

Kempo, so long as you have a good jack and axle stands, the job is very easy. Just undo the bottom bolt on the caliper, lift up, remove pads, gently push the pistons back into the caliper, insert new pads, and push the caliper back. Finally refit the bolt.

Per side should take no more than about 15-20 mins.

Dan

Kempo

Thanks Dan - just wanted to know that the whole lot needn't come off, will give it a go.

Stef

EBC Greens are superb for road use, and ARE virtually dust free. Mine lasted 12,000 miles. Do not use them on track though.
I found the Reds pants on track as well, they only lasted 30 laps! They were not as good on the road as Greens either.
Yellows are good on track , but there are better pads around.

Stef.

Sith

Stef,

I second what you say about the Greens on the track. 10-12 laps and puff, oooohh where did that smoke come from. Luckily my old car had a brake pad sensor.

Can one be bought for MY96 Scoobs? As the sensor probably saved my life on the old car.

P.

Kempo

Excuse my ignorance as I've never been on a track day but how come the pads can last 12,000 miles on road use but be wasted after 30 laps on the track - sometimes you break hard on the roads too. Is the stress of breaking into corners on the track THAT much worse than some aggressive driving on a quiet country road??