Uprate fronts only - no good?
#1
What is it with the rumor that you should not uprate front discs & pads and leave the rear standard?
Could it happen that upon upgrading the fronts (pads and discs), they brake much harder or stronger than before, thus the whole brake "balance" of the car is messed up?? or is this all b***sh**e?
tks,
Ramon
Could it happen that upon upgrading the fronts (pads and discs), they brake much harder or stronger than before, thus the whole brake "balance" of the car is messed up?? or is this all b***sh**e?
tks,
Ramon
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
The thinking here is that the rears do so little towards braking anyway, that upgrading THEM will be more likely to upset brake balance.
Apparently, they are easily capable of doing more than they are called upon to do, so if you uprate the fronts only, you're still OK.
Have a look at the "Stoptech" site for a better explanation.
Alcazar
Apparently, they are easily capable of doing more than they are called upon to do, so if you uprate the fronts only, you're still OK.
Have a look at the "Stoptech" site for a better explanation.
Alcazar
#3
I think it will stay a rumour. I've had AP 6-pots on 3 cars now at the front only & they've been fine as the front brakes do all the work most of the time anyway.
I've asked about the rears and they've said "do it for show if you want". I've got 2pots at the rear and that's the same as some 300bhp 200sx's (and others) out there, still have for the fronts!
I've asked about the rears and they've said "do it for show if you want". I've got 2pots at the rear and that's the same as some 300bhp 200sx's (and others) out there, still have for the fronts!
#5
Scooby Regular
depends what you are doing with the car, not as much issue with a road car compared to a dedicated competition car........
if you leave the rears std with a mild uprated front then you only experience a little extra dive.......however, if you've done a bit more work (say bigger discs/ calipers) then you will get lot more front weight transfer, which can be eliminated by matching the front & rear braking upgrades so that the car brakes "flatter" and hence is much more stable when fully committed
alyn - asperformance.cm
if you leave the rears std with a mild uprated front then you only experience a little extra dive.......however, if you've done a bit more work (say bigger discs/ calipers) then you will get lot more front weight transfer, which can be eliminated by matching the front & rear braking upgrades so that the car brakes "flatter" and hence is much more stable when fully committed
alyn - asperformance.cm
#6
Alyn - how can mods to the rear brakes stop the weight transfer to the front? Surely all you can do is prevent the rears locking during this weight transfer? If the fronts are working better then weight transfer is just physics, you can't reduce it by mods at the rear.
#7
Scooby Regular
if it was as simple as you suggest all of our competiion cars would be running no rear brakes at all...........
it is not all to do with weight transfer it is about reducing weight transfer!!!!
it is not all to do with weight transfer it is about reducing weight transfer!!!!
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#8
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I have 335mm front discs, with Mintex pads, as soon as I put the same pads on the back, the car felt great, it broke(?) much flatter, and just felt more settled, and less tail happy.
Ron.
Ron.
#9
Hmm, I'm clearly missing something... Isn't weight transfer just a function of the decelleration rate. The only way to get less weight transfer is to decellerate less. I think.
This ignores the drive train transferring braking effort from the rear wheels thro to the front wheels. Not sure if that's significant or if one or all of the diffs would allow this to happen.
Isn't it odd how you think you know something then when you try and write it down you find you're not really as sure as you thought.....
This ignores the drive train transferring braking effort from the rear wheels thro to the front wheels. Not sure if that's significant or if one or all of the diffs would allow this to happen.
Isn't it odd how you think you know something then when you try and write it down you find you're not really as sure as you thought.....
#10
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Chelspeed, you can see it best on bike racing where they often leave black lines from the rear tyre under braking.
When the nose dives, the wheelbase shortens. With some back brake, the rear will not roll forward so willingly and so it helps to maintain the wheelbase, which resists nose dive.
Some rear brake also increases directional stability as it is always pulling the rear back, helping to resist the car/bike swapping ends.
And in the final entry to a corner, the quick bikers deliberately lock the rear to break traction and 'rear wheel steer' round the corner. Then once past the apex, they do the same on the gas. This bit has more to do with cornering than braking and is something like the two-wheeled equivalent of a pendulum or handbrake turn. And a lot easier said than done
Richard.
When the nose dives, the wheelbase shortens. With some back brake, the rear will not roll forward so willingly and so it helps to maintain the wheelbase, which resists nose dive.
Some rear brake also increases directional stability as it is always pulling the rear back, helping to resist the car/bike swapping ends.
And in the final entry to a corner, the quick bikers deliberately lock the rear to break traction and 'rear wheel steer' round the corner. Then once past the apex, they do the same on the gas. This bit has more to do with cornering than braking and is something like the two-wheeled equivalent of a pendulum or handbrake turn. And a lot easier said than done
Richard.
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