ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

Best practice to follow?

ozzy

So you got them then? did you get them from that source you gave me?

Stefan

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

yep I did purchase them from motorsportworld, arrived on thursday - garage is fitting them. Has Ferodo DS2500 at the front.

Also bought some goodridge hoses for front/back (ap kit only comes with front, and I wanted to upgrade the back also) and some uprated rear pads (Ferodo DS2500 rear) from tsl motorsport

ozzy

Good man. You'll need to tell me just how good they are. Can feel my 'plastic friend' calling to me

Stefan

Andy.F

Follow the details on the leaflet that comes with the pads

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

Andy - Cool, haven't looked as I didnt open the box, just took it straight down to the garage.

ps> which rollers did u get your result on??

rich101

when I did mine it went like this

200~300 miles not motorway but general bits of everything avoiding all out braking if possible.

then find a nice quiet/straight road and all out brake from 70mph to 30ish and upto 70 and again a total of 10 times. Then try to stay off the brakes to allow them to cool off 15~20 minutes, I just drove gently for a few miles then coasted into a layby not touching the brake pedal and moved the car backwards and forwards during the cooling off, stops the pads putting to much heat into the disc at one particular point.

Now you should have some mighty fine brakes ! It does sound brutal and it is, but you must bed these in properly otherwise the pad/disc do not mate correctly. The above instructions were given to me by ScoobyMania.

rich

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

hmm... and how can one adopt that on an island 12miles by 9, with a top speed of 40mph?

Hoppy

What have you got these huge brakes for, then? Bedding in - read the AP literature. It ain't rocket science. I sorted a set of new discs and DS2500 pads in my AP 6-pots in twenty minutes. All you need to do is build up the heat and cooling cycles gradually. Start slow and gentle, cool off, then get faster and harder, always cooling off between runs. Finish off with some full-on 100mph-plus stops. Prepare to be amazed During bedding, make certain that the car never comes to a compete rest or you'll get heat-soak (disortion) from the pads that no disc can survive.

Cheers,

Richard.

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

As i mentioned earlier, I just dropped the box down at the garage, I didn't open it, thus I didn't realise it had AP literature inside on what to do!

Andy.F

Christian, rollers result was at Star performnce in Scotland, generally considered the most conservative with the output figures ..........just ask Harvey
Are you going to come up and set them alight for us then

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

Seems quite far !! Scotland !! What did Harvey get on those rollers?

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for the non-uniform pad material transfer to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

For a race pad, typically four 80mph to 5 and two 100mph to 5, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the system temperatures during break-in to the range that the pad material was designed to operate at. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.

In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 1 to 1.4 G's, depending on the vehicle and what you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.8 to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should be diminished before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.

OK?

F

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

yep - i dont have abs though

Hoppy

Floyd, I do hope you've not infringed someone's copyright with that excellent description

CR, if you haven't got ABS, take extreme care. Don't do it in the wet and only brake hard in an absolutely straight line, building up speed and pressure gradually. These brakes will lock your wheels easily from 100mph-plus Take care, mate.

Richard.

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

Richard

I'm recalling all this from an instruction manual

F

Hoppy

Floyd, flagrant breech of copyright then! The NUJ would have you shot

TaviaRS

Both discs and pads need to be bedded in.

AP Disc bedding

Pad bedding has already been covered.

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

Er, Richard, in that case it must have been someone else using my PC

I thought that this extract could clarify how to do it properly. I certainly will follow this next time.

F

toolmaker

fitted new disks and pads a couple of weeks ago. the usual friday afternoon rush as was doing Oulton the next day.

this is only a good idea if you want to completely **** your brakes. it never occurred to me to bed them in ~ just wanted some decent brakes for a track day.

please learn from my ridiculous mistake and don't do the same; it's a really stupid thing to do!

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

What happened Mr Toolmaker?

F

toolmaker

brakes were ace on the day so pressed on a bit...

now they're pretty warped and juddery when warm!

am doing oulton again shortly so am going to get them really hot and see if it straightens them out any!

stupid or what