Bugeye Wagon suspension advice needed
18 February 2013, 02:03 PM
#1
Bugeye Wagon suspension advice needed
Hi, anyone good on suspension. I need your advice please.
I've a 2001 Bugeye WRX wagon that I need help with sorting the suspension.
I’m unhappy with the handling because I also have a totally standard ’99 classic wagon that I just love for it’s instant turn in, fluid (Porsche-bothering) handling and compliant ride.
It floats telepathically through B-road twisties and even after putting 155k miles on the clock I’ve still hung on to it because it’s confidence-inspiring and fun to drive.
If the Classic is Mohammed Ali then the Bugeye is Mike Tyson.
The Bugeye's a faster, more solid in feel slugger but when overtaking, for example, it’s more: ‘pull out, point, shoot, jinx back in’ than a single smooth flowing manoeuvre. The car was originally registered to Prodrive UK and came with the (dreadful!) Prodrive handling pack fitted.
There’s very little guidance on WRX wagon (as opposed to saloon/STi) suspension tuning on here. I’ve tried a few things and it’s better than it was but I’d welcome any suggestions on getting a more fun, fluid steer from the Bugeye wagon. Road use only.
- Front shocks & springs: stock (bought with Prodrive springs but 30mm drop gave hard riding, nose down bump steer)
- Rear shocks and springs: stock shocks, Prodrive 445/D4/01 springs
- ARBs: Whiteline 22mm ARBs front & rear
- Anti lift/castor kit
- Ally/Steel Drop links front/rear
- Camber bolt fitted
- Ride height: Front 360, rear 365
- Tyres: 215/45 R17 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 (superb!)
Suggestions welcome.
Thanks in advance. Sam
I've a 2001 Bugeye WRX wagon that I need help with sorting the suspension.
I’m unhappy with the handling because I also have a totally standard ’99 classic wagon that I just love for it’s instant turn in, fluid (Porsche-bothering) handling and compliant ride.
It floats telepathically through B-road twisties and even after putting 155k miles on the clock I’ve still hung on to it because it’s confidence-inspiring and fun to drive.
If the Classic is Mohammed Ali then the Bugeye is Mike Tyson.
The Bugeye's a faster, more solid in feel slugger but when overtaking, for example, it’s more: ‘pull out, point, shoot, jinx back in’ than a single smooth flowing manoeuvre. The car was originally registered to Prodrive UK and came with the (dreadful!) Prodrive handling pack fitted.
There’s very little guidance on WRX wagon (as opposed to saloon/STi) suspension tuning on here. I’ve tried a few things and it’s better than it was but I’d welcome any suggestions on getting a more fun, fluid steer from the Bugeye wagon. Road use only.
- Front shocks & springs: stock (bought with Prodrive springs but 30mm drop gave hard riding, nose down bump steer)
- Rear shocks and springs: stock shocks, Prodrive 445/D4/01 springs
- ARBs: Whiteline 22mm ARBs front & rear
- Anti lift/castor kit
- Ally/Steel Drop links front/rear
- Camber bolt fitted
- Ride height: Front 360, rear 365
- Tyres: 215/45 R17 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 (superb!)
Suggestions welcome.
Thanks in advance. Sam
Last edited by SouthWalesSam; 19 February 2013 at 11:11 PM.
20 February 2013, 02:07 PM
#5
Classic/new age ride differences??
My classic V3 STi wagon was my best loved Impreza. Had 100K on it when I sold her - beautiful fluid ride. All the New Age cars I've owned since have never quite 'gelled' with me fully
I went back to a Classic - Type R as much more involving than the new age cars
Your set-up list looks quite good - what geo figures are you running?
My classic V3 STi wagon was my best loved Impreza. Had 100K on it when I sold her - beautiful fluid ride. All the New Age cars I've owned since have never quite 'gelled' with me fully
I went back to a Classic - Type R as much more involving than the new age cars
Your set-up list looks quite good - what geo figures are you running?
20 February 2013, 03:52 PM
#6
Hey, Bonesetter. Good to hear from you.
I've no exact geo figures available. I used my local Subaru dealer to replace the front Prodrive springs with stock. I gave them a geo print out from a 'fast road' set up from the Subaru specialist (60 miles from home) who'd fitted my ARBs, ALK and solid drop links:
Subaru didn't even bother to set it anywhere close to what I'd asked. The ride was good but handling worst.
So took it to a mid-Wales outlet to set it up per spec above. They got closer but the printer on their 4wd alignment console wasn't working so don't know exactly what I've got. It was much improved though still no where as good as the classic.
It's really disappointing to hear that nothing that came later match the classic. What about the Spec C wasn't that the best handling New Age?
Would it be best to start from scratch with something like a good New Age Sti geo spec tweaked for the extra rear weight and ride height of the wagon?
I've no exact geo figures available. I used my local Subaru dealer to replace the front Prodrive springs with stock. I gave them a geo print out from a 'fast road' set up from the Subaru specialist (60 miles from home) who'd fitted my ARBs, ALK and solid drop links:
Subaru didn't even bother to set it anywhere close to what I'd asked. The ride was good but handling worst.
So took it to a mid-Wales outlet to set it up per spec above. They got closer but the printer on their 4wd alignment console wasn't working so don't know exactly what I've got. It was much improved though still no where as good as the classic.
It's really disappointing to hear that nothing that came later match the classic. What about the Spec C wasn't that the best handling New Age?
Would it be best to start from scratch with something like a good New Age Sti geo spec tweaked for the extra rear weight and ride height of the wagon?
20 February 2013, 09:49 PM
#7
The geo printout you have above looks nice. Readings have been set by a tech who likes his job.
I would say with that alignment of there being more negative camber on the rear, the feel may be like a follow through. In other words, if it was my car, I would like the front to hold its own more and have more camber.
There's little in it though I have to say. Get the tech to get MAX camber up front (should be close to -2° and then set a bit less rear. one and a bit should be OK
You're trying to achieve 'rotational balance' in other words being neutral in the corner. It's up to you what you go for, but I like a firm, precise front feel, with provokeable oversteer
I would say with that alignment of there being more negative camber on the rear, the feel may be like a follow through. In other words, if it was my car, I would like the front to hold its own more and have more camber.
There's little in it though I have to say. Get the tech to get MAX camber up front (should be close to -2° and then set a bit less rear. one and a bit should be OK
You're trying to achieve 'rotational balance' in other words being neutral in the corner. It's up to you what you go for, but I like a firm, precise front feel, with provokeable oversteer
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20 February 2013, 11:44 PM
#8
Bonesetter, thanks for the analysis.
Front:
Yes, I want precise, feelsome steering that tells me more clearly what the fronts are doing. The current front set up feels slightly vague going into a bend which doesn’t inspire confidence or give any idea of how near or far you are from the limit.
But won’t maxing the camber give increased, uneven tyre wear? The Eagle F1 Asymmetrics are showing very even wear at present.
Rear
Sorry, but I don’t do tail-out stuff on road. I’m an ex Golf Gti Mk1 understeer, me. And last Friday, 10 laps of Silverstone Rally School’s mud covered off-road circuit in a classic set up to swap ends if you so much as rested a toe on the gas cured any remaining hankering for catching oversteer.
Neutral would be nice though. So when you say ‘one and bit’ camber on the rear would that be about –1.05 to –1.10, rather than current –1.30?
Front:
Yes, I want precise, feelsome steering that tells me more clearly what the fronts are doing. The current front set up feels slightly vague going into a bend which doesn’t inspire confidence or give any idea of how near or far you are from the limit.
But won’t maxing the camber give increased, uneven tyre wear? The Eagle F1 Asymmetrics are showing very even wear at present.
Rear
Sorry, but I don’t do tail-out stuff on road. I’m an ex Golf Gti Mk1 understeer, me. And last Friday, 10 laps of Silverstone Rally School’s mud covered off-road circuit in a classic set up to swap ends if you so much as rested a toe on the gas cured any remaining hankering for catching oversteer.
Neutral would be nice though. So when you say ‘one and bit’ camber on the rear would that be about –1.05 to –1.10, rather than current –1.30?
21 February 2013, 08:09 AM
#9
Maxing front camber you'll get ~1.75°. If you're mainly using the car a slowish DD then yes, you may see some inside wear. If you're more a fast roader (you do live in South Wales and own a classic Impreza after all lol) then that amount of camber will be fine (dynamic caster on the loaded wheel will be alot less remember).
Sorry, to be clear, I meant that set-up will give balance (neutral), but with aggressive oversteer if you really want it. So, trail braking into the bend, or really chucking the rear out going in. Otherwise nuetral, with no understeer.
You have 22 bars F&R so roll resistance is in good check - what settings do you have the bars on?
As for steering feel, you have the caster bushes in there so weight should be there, and good levels of front grip. The tyres you have fitted are not the stiffest as far as sidewalls go, so initial turn-in will not be as direct as it would be with a sidewall which holds up better on turn-in. The little bit of toe-in will help in that respect
Sorry, to be clear, I meant that set-up will give balance (neutral), but with aggressive oversteer if you really want it. So, trail braking into the bend, or really chucking the rear out going in. Otherwise nuetral, with no understeer.
You have 22 bars F&R so roll resistance is in good check - what settings do you have the bars on?
As for steering feel, you have the caster bushes in there so weight should be there, and good levels of front grip. The tyres you have fitted are not the stiffest as far as sidewalls go, so initial turn-in will not be as direct as it would be with a sidewall which holds up better on turn-in. The little bit of toe-in will help in that respect
21 February 2013, 04:56 PM
#10
No, I wouldn't own a Soob of any kind and use it as a slowish DD, especially not living in an area full of roads that God designed for when he fancies a hoon!
Just to be clear on the rear camber: when you say ‘one and bit’, would that be about –1.05 to –1.10, rather than the current ~1.30?
Thanks for taking the time to look at this, Bonesetter.
I'm away in London this weekend so I'll get the geo reset to the spec above plus your suggested tweaks (come back to me on the rear camber) and I'll report back on how things go later next week.
Sam
Just to be clear on the rear camber: when you say ‘one and bit’, would that be about –1.05 to –1.10, rather than the current ~1.30?
Thanks for taking the time to look at this, Bonesetter.
I'm away in London this weekend so I'll get the geo reset to the spec above plus your suggested tweaks (come back to me on the rear camber) and I'll report back on how things go later next week.
Sam
21 February 2013, 05:12 PM
#11
That's just what I thought - whenever I can I get out into the Brecons and Snowdon (and have taken the Type R through a few of the valley roads (a mate lives in Bedwas) and 4069 etc. Perfect Scooby territory
Rear camber will needs a little fine tuning to your arb settings as you have 22 front & rear. Let me know where they are at.
Generally speaking rear can match the front (for a fast roader) or be slightly less
Here's what I dial my New Age to
Rear camber will needs a little fine tuning to your arb settings as you have 22 front & rear. Let me know where they are at.
Generally speaking rear can match the front (for a fast roader) or be slightly less
Here's what I dial my New Age to
23 February 2013, 10:03 AM
#12
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Bonesetter has touched on most of the major points. One massive element that hasn't been discussed is weight. The GG chassis weighs around 150kg more than the GF. That's huge! And has a significant effect on any sort of feel in directional changes. I had a Bugeye Wagon as well and it had pretty much ever suspension mod thrown on it (while still being compliant). Every time I drove a GC/GF I was always amazed at how much better they changed direction. Lithe! You can get the GG chassis to handle very well and be much faster through a B Road than the GF/GC but unless you lose the weight, that nimble fluidity of feel will never quite be there.
Last edited by Arnie_1; 23 February 2013 at 10:05 AM.
05 March 2013, 10:01 AM
#13
Hi, Arnie. Thanks for the input.
I'm disappointed that in reality the classic was as good as it got in terms of handling. Makes it even harder to contemplate parting with mine even though it doesn't get much use nowadays.
Slow progress on the Bugeye wagon:
Disappointingly, I was turned away from my local ATS on Saturday afternoon when I went to get my geo set to Bonesetter's spec (above). (They weren't my first choice but they've got the kit and they're are conveniently local).
Encouragingly however, they told me that as they wanted to do a really good job and wanted to put their best suspension men (two man job on my setup, they said) on the case, and as it might take an hour or two to do it properly they'd book me in for this Thursday morning instead. They also asked for full details of all my suspension mods.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Bonesetter, my rear ARB is on the middle setting of the three.
I'm disappointed that in reality the classic was as good as it got in terms of handling. Makes it even harder to contemplate parting with mine even though it doesn't get much use nowadays.
Slow progress on the Bugeye wagon:
Disappointingly, I was turned away from my local ATS on Saturday afternoon when I went to get my geo set to Bonesetter's spec (above). (They weren't my first choice but they've got the kit and they're are conveniently local).
Encouragingly however, they told me that as they wanted to do a really good job and wanted to put their best suspension men (two man job on my setup, they said) on the case, and as it might take an hour or two to do it properly they'd book me in for this Thursday morning instead. They also asked for full details of all my suspension mods.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Bonesetter, my rear ARB is on the middle setting of the three.
10 March 2013, 12:20 PM
#14
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Nice of them to say that they'll put their best bloke on the job but two man? Silly. All you need is one. So double check on pricing. Perhaps you'll have to pay for the two guys' labor.
There were improvements in the later generations. Stiffer chassis that did aid the handling, more caster, wider track on some models, but at the cost of weight. You can definitely get the car to handle fantastically with lots of grip but they never feel quite as nimble as a GC/F (but also not quite as wet noodley either!)
There were improvements in the later generations. Stiffer chassis that did aid the handling, more caster, wider track on some models, but at the cost of weight. You can definitely get the car to handle fantastically with lots of grip but they never feel quite as nimble as a GC/F (but also not quite as wet noodley either!)
11 March 2013, 10:37 PM
#15
You’re right on both counts, of course, Arnie.
Jerry at Powerstation (whose precision Bonesetter complimented earlier in this thread) did the original set-up single-handedly.
And no, ATS weren’t cheap, but I had told them that I’d pay them what it cost as they’d warn me they might have trouble. And they did…
I drove away after two hours with the rear geo set bang on to Bonesetter’s spec. However, try as they might ATS couldn’t work out a way to get either side of the front end to within 1 degree of Bonesetter’s negative camber setting. They did, however, even up the front toe which had gone a bit wayward.
But it’s not all bad news; even just ‘halfway’ to Bonesetter’s spec is massively better.
Handling is hard to describe but after a tank-full and 250 soaking wet and bone dry mixed A-road miles it feels like:
- the wagon rolls with more authority and a more planted feel than before
- turn-in is more prompt and even
- the cornering line is more consistently adjustable on the throttle,
- there’s less mid-bend fidget and deflection from mid corner bumps at speed
- on fast sweepers I can lean on the outside rear and feed the power in and it feels as if the rear outside wheel is planted firm and upright rather than flexing and squirming.
It’s not the classic but it’s already much better than it was.
So, I’m booked in at Powerstation (130 mile round trip) this week to get the front end camber sorted properly.
Jerry at Powerstation (whose precision Bonesetter complimented earlier in this thread) did the original set-up single-handedly.
And no, ATS weren’t cheap, but I had told them that I’d pay them what it cost as they’d warn me they might have trouble. And they did…
I drove away after two hours with the rear geo set bang on to Bonesetter’s spec. However, try as they might ATS couldn’t work out a way to get either side of the front end to within 1 degree of Bonesetter’s negative camber setting. They did, however, even up the front toe which had gone a bit wayward.
But it’s not all bad news; even just ‘halfway’ to Bonesetter’s spec is massively better.
Handling is hard to describe but after a tank-full and 250 soaking wet and bone dry mixed A-road miles it feels like:
- the wagon rolls with more authority and a more planted feel than before
- turn-in is more prompt and even
- the cornering line is more consistently adjustable on the throttle,
- there’s less mid-bend fidget and deflection from mid corner bumps at speed
- on fast sweepers I can lean on the outside rear and feed the power in and it feels as if the rear outside wheel is planted firm and upright rather than flexing and squirming.
It’s not the classic but it’s already much better than it was.
So, I’m booked in at Powerstation (130 mile round trip) this week to get the front end camber sorted properly.
11 March 2013, 10:46 PM
#16
Good to hear you're having some proper controlled fun now
How much camber did they manage up front then?
In your Powerstation printout above front left was up to one and a half degrees negative, right slightly less. That's not too far off my settings of about one and three quarter degrees
I wouldn't drive 130 miles to get another quarter of a degree camber. All the tech has to do is wiggle the camber bolt to get the max... those camber PS camber settings would be OK
.
How much camber did they manage up front then?
In your Powerstation printout above front left was up to one and a half degrees negative, right slightly less. That's not too far off my settings of about one and three quarter degrees
I wouldn't drive 130 miles to get another quarter of a degree camber. All the tech has to do is wiggle the camber bolt to get the max... those camber PS camber settings would be OK
.
Last edited by bonesetter; 11 March 2013 at 10:52 PM.
11 March 2013, 11:49 PM
#17
Thanks in no small part to your input, Bonesetter. 
Negative 0.36' and negative 0.57' was all they managed.
My actual geo settings I was running were some way out from even my original spec I posted. When I'm done adjusting and experimenting I'll put up ATS before and after for info.
It's more like three quarters to one full degree of camber but Powerstation will check the ATS work, I'll get a initial tyre wear lookover 400 miles on (ATS did 3 tread depth measures per tyre and all 4 tyres were bang on even on the 'before' settings). And (is it just me?) I really like driving the A40/M50 Monmouth to Strensham when there are no roadworks.
I'm going that distance for the handling feel. That's the bit I enjoy best of all. And after another 250 miles if I don't like what I come away with I'll happily make the return journey to put it back to where it is now.
Negative 0.36' and negative 0.57' was all they managed.
My actual geo settings I was running were some way out from even my original spec I posted. When I'm done adjusting and experimenting I'll put up ATS before and after for info.
It's more like three quarters to one full degree of camber but Powerstation will check the ATS work, I'll get a initial tyre wear lookover 400 miles on (ATS did 3 tread depth measures per tyre and all 4 tyres were bang on even on the 'before' settings). And (is it just me?) I really like driving the A40/M50 Monmouth to Strensham when there are no roadworks.
I'm going that distance for the handling feel. That's the bit I enjoy best of all. And after another 250 miles if I don't like what I come away with I'll happily make the return journey to put it back to where it is now.
19 March 2013, 11:46 AM
#18
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Hmm, they weren't able to dial in front camber properly? Are they even aware that the upper bolt is a camber bolt and that you need to loosen the bottom bolt as well in order to properly utilize the cam of the camber bolt? I don't know how many non specialist shops don't realize that is what you have to do in order to adjust camber on this car. They either say there is no camber adjustment or the loosen only the top camber bolt and twirl it but get little to know movement.
So, unless something is seriously bent or broken, you should be able to a.) get more neg camber than that and b) get them pretty much dead even.
So, unless something is seriously bent or broken, you should be able to a.) get more neg camber than that and b) get them pretty much dead even.
20 March 2013, 11:50 PM
#20
Sorry for the delay. Thought I’d give it a full test before reporting back ….
Took Bonesetter’s geo spec to Powerstation and told them what I had, what I wanted and listen to what they said.
And after two tanks full and 500+ miles revelling and misbehaving, I declare the WRX wagon suspension set! For me, at any rate!
Now the wagon can/has/is:
- Slice through high-speed bends with real confidence
- ‘Esses’ and roundabout right turns are despatched with ease and early power down.
- turn-in almost as if the car has 4-wheel steer
- set up for a bend then and adjust the steer through using the throttle
- deliver snappy high-speed lane changes on demand
- precise in-lane positioning at speed.
It's just so much better.
Had an Ecutek re-map while I was at Powerstation. Only came away with 3bhp more at max.
But they smoothed out the spool up, bulked out the mid-range with another 18bhp, eliminated a misfire at 6,000rpm and gave me seamless power delivery that, even with just 280bhp, is addictive to use. And about 8% improvement in fuel consumption.
Big thanks to Bonesetter for pointing me in the right direction.
Big thanks to Jerry and Andy at PowerStation who really know what they’re doing and do it well.
Thanks to ATS for reminding me why it’s best to ask an expert if you want expertise.
With the geo setup and the map I haven’t driven the classic for two weeks now! But then, even Mohammed Ali had to retire eventually!
[Geo spec to follow]
Took Bonesetter’s geo spec to Powerstation and told them what I had, what I wanted and listen to what they said.
And after two tanks full and 500+ miles revelling and misbehaving, I declare the WRX wagon suspension set! For me, at any rate!
Now the wagon can/has/is:
- Slice through high-speed bends with real confidence
- ‘Esses’ and roundabout right turns are despatched with ease and early power down.
- turn-in almost as if the car has 4-wheel steer
- set up for a bend then and adjust the steer through using the throttle
- deliver snappy high-speed lane changes on demand
- precise in-lane positioning at speed.
It's just so much better.
Had an Ecutek re-map while I was at Powerstation. Only came away with 3bhp more at max.
But they smoothed out the spool up, bulked out the mid-range with another 18bhp, eliminated a misfire at 6,000rpm and gave me seamless power delivery that, even with just 280bhp, is addictive to use. And about 8% improvement in fuel consumption.
Big thanks to Bonesetter for pointing me in the right direction.
Big thanks to Jerry and Andy at PowerStation who really know what they’re doing and do it well.
Thanks to ATS for reminding me why it’s best to ask an expert if you want expertise.
With the geo setup and the map I haven’t driven the classic for two weeks now! But then, even Mohammed Ali had to retire eventually!
[Geo spec to follow]
21 March 2013, 11:25 AM
#21
That's very good news. Pleased to hear you're enjoying your ride now. Impressive what a difference a good alignment can make
One other thing to think about is tyres and steering feedback. You seem happy with the Assy 2's so all's good, but those tyres do have a soft sidewall which effects the general 'sharpness' of the car.
This is purely a preference I have to say, but I like stiff sidewall tyres. I have the Yokohama AD08's on the Type R and Bridgestone Potenza S001's on the Forester. Both have very stiff sidewalls as well as carcass's which make for laser sharp steering response and a firmer overall feel of the car (less like being sat on a jelly sometimes).
It's only something to consider as an option like I say. I had the Assy 1's fitted on a new age STi wagon.
One other thing to think about is tyres and steering feedback. You seem happy with the Assy 2's so all's good, but those tyres do have a soft sidewall which effects the general 'sharpness' of the car.
This is purely a preference I have to say, but I like stiff sidewall tyres. I have the Yokohama AD08's on the Type R and Bridgestone Potenza S001's on the Forester. Both have very stiff sidewalls as well as carcass's which make for laser sharp steering response and a firmer overall feel of the car (less like being sat on a jelly sometimes).
It's only something to consider as an option like I say. I had the Assy 1's fitted on a new age STi wagon.
21 July 2013, 05:25 PM
#23
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but this thread is full of great information! Can I ask you Sam if your still happy about a few months of driving?
I have just put a set of KYB Ultra SR Shocks with Tein Springs on my bug wrx wagon and now Im looking to get it setup properly and turn it into a real b-road stormer. Can I ask if the setup provided by mr bonesetter is applicable to my car?
Am I right in thinking that a set of rear camber bolts will be necessary for the above setup and if so are they the same as the front bolts or specific to bugeye wagon rear? The mechanic who fitted my suspension said that I should buy aftermarket bushes to ensure that the drive shafts are aligned correctly as lowering the car means that they now settle at a slight angle.
I have heard good things about Align in Dudley (local) and also Powerstation in Gloucester. Are these the best places to take my car to in the midlands?
I have just put a set of KYB Ultra SR Shocks with Tein Springs on my bug wrx wagon and now Im looking to get it setup properly and turn it into a real b-road stormer. Can I ask if the setup provided by mr bonesetter is applicable to my car?
Am I right in thinking that a set of rear camber bolts will be necessary for the above setup and if so are they the same as the front bolts or specific to bugeye wagon rear? The mechanic who fitted my suspension said that I should buy aftermarket bushes to ensure that the drive shafts are aligned correctly as lowering the car means that they now settle at a slight angle.
I have heard good things about Align in Dudley (local) and also Powerstation in Gloucester. Are these the best places to take my car to in the midlands?
22 July 2013, 08:11 AM
#24
Geo figures posted above will provide a sound basis for a fast road car set-up yes.
The tech should be able to wiggle enough camber without the need for camber bolts
I have used Align on a couple of occasions and they are good. I usually always take my cars, including many Imprezas to Chemix in Audnam, Stourbridge. Simon there is very good. If you take a copy of the geo printout he will know exactly what to do.
No need to go all the way down to Powerstation. I've used them a couple times now, and wasn't all that impressed. You'll get what you're given from them
The tech should be able to wiggle enough camber without the need for camber bolts
I have used Align on a couple of occasions and they are good. I usually always take my cars, including many Imprezas to Chemix in Audnam, Stourbridge. Simon there is very good. If you take a copy of the geo printout he will know exactly what to do.
No need to go all the way down to Powerstation. I've used them a couple times now, and wasn't all that impressed. You'll get what you're given from them
22 July 2013, 09:16 AM
#25
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@bonesetter thanks for your advice mate and i ill give chemix a call thats in my neck of the woods.
I have been reading on here about the alignment, it seems that powerstation are the only ones that can do the bumpstop alignment, or is this something chemix also could do?
I have been reading on here about the alignment, it seems that powerstation are the only ones that can do the bumpstop alignment, or is this something chemix also could do?
22 July 2013, 01:31 PM
#26
I think you mean bumpsteer when the rack is lowered by fitting shims.
Really, there's no need for that. The Impreza can deal with a fair amount of bump steer, and the the Powerstation job is a few hundred quid
Make sure Simon is at Chemix when you go (phone before to see if he's in, then just turn-up as it's a first come first seen)
Let us know how you get on
Really, there's no need for that. The Impreza can deal with a fair amount of bump steer, and the the Powerstation job is a few hundred quid
Make sure Simon is at Chemix when you go (phone before to see if he's in, then just turn-up as it's a first come first seen)
Let us know how you get on
Last edited by bonesetter; 22 July 2013 at 08:39 PM.
22 July 2013, 06:20 PM
#27
Sorry to jump on the thread, but I will be going down this route with my 05 wagon shortly, replacing the shocks with KYB excels, already got Eibach springs, and aiming to replace the rear arb to 22mm,and rear droplinks. Here`s my question; is a roll center kit the same as bumpsteer kit, and is it good value?; Jura on here seems to rate them. Thought that I would ask whilst there is a guru online, Bonesetter!!
22 July 2013, 07:22 PM
#28
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Self same problem with my wagon which is a hand full on uneven roads.Its fitted with prodrive springs and have been wondering what the hell was wrong with it.it really causes you to back off at times so I will be sorting it out as its a great car otherwise.
22 July 2013, 08:48 PM
#29
Sorry to jump on the thread, but I will be going down this route with my 05 wagon shortly, replacing the shocks with KYB excels, already got Eibach springs, and aiming to replace the rear arb to 22mm,and rear droplinks. Here`s my question; is a roll center kit the same as bumpsteer kit, and is it good value?; Jura on here seems to rate them. Thought that I would ask whilst there is a guru online, Bonesetter!!
I know very little in actual fact, and have gleaned the knowledge of previous proper guru's before me A roll centre kit, consists of extended height ball joints and highers the CofG after lowering the car (springs coilovers etc), and without the correction the roll centre migrates a fair amount downward, increasing roll, to a less extent rake, castor and of course camber (which in fact increases). Anything more than an inch of lowering usually needs some roll centre correction
The bumpsteer kit is an extended height track rod and its effectivness is at best questionable