Rear arb mounts - any broken ones?
#1
Rear arb mounts - any broken ones?
I'm getting a little anxious about my (std) rear arb mounts. I run a 25mm (24 in middle hole) rear and 23 (22 in rear position) front with solid drop links on my Type R. It gets used for fast B-road stuff only
Has anyone had their mounts rip off, or heard of such happenings?
Has anyone had their mounts rip off, or heard of such happenings?
#2
Never heard of any failing myself, but you can get whiteline items.
Whether they are stronger than OEM I don't know, and if they are made because the originals either break or flex, again I don't know.
Not much help I know...
Whether they are stronger than OEM I don't know, and if they are made because the originals either break or flex, again I don't know.
Not much help I know...
#4
This is the reply i got.
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...rb-mounts.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...rb-mounts.html
Didn't manage to find that on a search, but Arnie's reply seems to hav the stamp of truth on it:
I've seen quite a few fail, to be honest. They usually tear at the tab where the bolt goes through. Cheapest solution is to get Subaru 04+ rear mounts but you'll need to get the appropriate poly bush as the bracket and bush shape is different to previous years (bug eye/classic). Or just get some HD mounts from someone like Whiteline.
#6
Something like this maybe help
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whit...2-2007-WRX-STI
And this too,part number are:
1 x 20540FE200 BRACKET R
1 x 20540FE210 BRACKET L
2 x 20466FE000 CLAMP STABILIZER
http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Sway_bars
Jura
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whit...2-2007-WRX-STI
And this too,part number are:
1 x 20540FE200 BRACKET R
1 x 20540FE210 BRACKET L
2 x 20466FE000 CLAMP STABILIZER
http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/Sway_bars
Jura
#7
this is your best answer. we've seen the older style mounts fail on cars that use a bigger bar, whereas the newer style mount seems to do much better.
plus, if pricing is anything like it is over here in the states that is the least expensive upgrade option.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you go to the new mounts you'll also need the "saddles" and appropriate bushings to go with the bar.
plus, if pricing is anything like it is over here in the states that is the least expensive upgrade option.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you go to the new mounts you'll also need the "saddles" and appropriate bushings to go with the bar.
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#8
this is your best answer. we've seen the older style mounts fail on cars that use a bigger bar, whereas the newer style mount seems to do much better.
plus, if pricing is anything like it is over here in the states that is the least expensive upgrade option.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you go to the new mounts you'll also need the "saddles" and appropriate bushings to go with the bar.
plus, if pricing is anything like it is over here in the states that is the least expensive upgrade option.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you go to the new mounts you'll also need the "saddles" and appropriate bushings to go with the bar.
I have sourced some of the stronger mounts, but have not fitted them.
The saddles you mention, are these what the bar bushing and arb (sway) sits in and bolts on the 'back/top' of the mount? So the ones I currently have will not fit onto the top of the new mounts, or the Whiteline bushing currently in the 'saddle' will not be able to be re-used?
#10
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Oh right, there is extra material in the new mount that might interfere with your diff mounts. But looking at the respective gaps in the two mounts, it might just fit in there. Only one way to find out...
Last edited by Arnie_1; 10 December 2011 at 12:16 PM.
#12
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I really don't think the newer Alu mounts will fit. They are cross braced in design. Seriously before you order, just fit up a mount, see if it fits. Unless you feel your CC card hasn't had enough exercise this year!
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