Probably been brought up before but I want my 95wrx to handle really well, can someone advise me best route to go down, be for fast coastal country roads. Would lowering springs and a strut brace make a bit of difference?

 

Up.

 

This has been done quite a bit recently. Replies and search for road use, will be split coilovers/damper & spring. However, for your application of costal roads I would not hesitate on fitting late V5/6 red dampers and Prodrive (Eibach) lowering springs. These lower by 24mm (1"), pretty much what the P1 had fitted. This will be a superb organic combo on your roads Used sets can be found on the bay

 

Do you want to be able to tinker with the settings? I.e. adjust damping, ride height and camber or do you just want to bolt something on? There is a myth that coilovers are always overly stiff for the worst of the UK roads. It's just that, a myth. A coilover is a spring and damper. Spring rates can be chosen and damping rate can be chosen. As such a coilover kit can be produced to meet just about any need.

However if you want simple bolt on and dont require any adjustability then OE might be the way to go.

 

I realy what the car to handle better around corners and on the road when i put my right foot downNot planning to take the car on the track,just road use.So far i've got V4 sti dampers with Eibach lower springs,front and rear strut brace and 22mm front Whiteline anti roll bar.What other parts do i need?Cheers.

 

What rear arb?

And most important - what attributes of the handling are you not happy with ?

 

Oversteer is subarus problem.I'm looking for a 24mm rear anti roll bar and front and rear drop links.Is this a good setup or not?

 

Do you mean understeer? i.e the front pushing wide.

 

Sorry understeer.

 

Rear ARB would transform te handling of your car.

 

On the rear,should i go for a 22mm or 24mm anti roll bar?

 

IIRC I've got a 24mm adjustable rear ARB on mine.

 

I thought the 22 was adjustable and the 24 wasn't?

 

22mm 24mm.

 

My bad both sizes come with adjust ability just depends on the bar.

Well it's up to you really, 22mm seems to get the best reviews as the 24 tends to have a harsher ride. Depends if you are planning on tracking the car.

 

The balance between understeer and oversteer will depend in part on the relative stiffness of the ARBs front and back. If you've uprated the front ARB but not the back that will, I think, increase understeer. If you're sticking with the 22 on the front then you'll want a 24 on the back to counteract understeer I believe (but I'm not an expert). The most important thing to include is a proper 4 wheel geometry set up done by someone familiar with Subarus

 

Mperregil: on a classic, you want the FRONT arb to be weaker than the rear, so 22mm front, 24mm rear.

Get some decent droplinks, and also think about an anti-lift kit.

Then get the alignment done by someone who knows what he/she is doing.

That last bit is important.

Many, many places now offer 4-wheel alignment, but either put it as standard according to the manufacturer, or dial in settings given to them by the customer. The operator, in most cases, will have zero idea what any changes may mean, or do.

Go to somewhere who know. Mine were done at Carnetix in Melton Mowbray.

I was asked what I wanted the car to do, if I wanted to track it, how I felt about tyre scrub etc. Then various settings were explained to me, before we decided how to set it up.
Once it was done I was then taken out on a demo drive and asked to drive back to see if I was happy with it.

Pay the money, FEEL the difference.

 

I'm not doing track days,just road use.So Whiteline 22mm at the front and 24mm at the back anti roll bars,Whiteline anti lift kit,front and rear drop links,is this all that i need?

 

imo its all down to your driving style, i use a heavier front arb than back one, its just the way i like it and it works for me.
also choose some good tyres and a propper geo set up

 

This is old information, but the basics of understanding your cars handling are the same, and of course as Andy says, differing driving styles will determine what route you take.


Understeer on entry to a bend - Increase the 'rebound rate' of rear shocks. Decrease the 'bump rate' of front shocks. Increase the rear brake bias or just brake earlier, ie, go into the corner slower!

Oversteer on entry to a bend - Decrease the 'rebound rate' of rear shocks. Increase the 'bump rate' of front shocks. Decrease the rear brake bias, or brake later!*

Mid-bend Understeer (constant 'wash-out') - Stiffen rear spring and/or anti-roll bar. Soften the front springs and/or anti-roll bar.*

Mid-bend Oversteer (constant 'tightening' without driver input) - Stiffen front spring and/or anti-roll bar. Soften the rear springs and/or anti-roll bar.*

Exit Understeer - Increase rebound of front shocks. Decrease bump of rear shocks. Stiffen rear springs/anti-roll bar. Soften front springs/anti-roll bar.*

Exit Oversteer - Decrease rebound of front shocks. Increase bump of rear shocks. Soften rear springs/anti-roll bar. Stiffen front springs/anti-roll bar.*

Car is slow to respond to driver's input - Stiffen the car by (in this order) springs then anti-rollbars then shocks. Increase tyre pressure check heat spread.*

Car hops over the bump - reverse of the above.

Neil

 

We have a good offer on a BC Racing coilover and Whiteline combo at the moment