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Old 25 October 2011, 03:15 AM
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mmcd87
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Exclamation Rear Shock Re-grease Tips

Hi,

Thought I would post up a few hints/tips I came across whilst regreasing the rear struts on my Blobeye Impreza WRX. These aren't in any particular order.

1)
If the struts knock on your late WRX blobeye it's probable that it can also receive this treatment as well as the STI's, as they were given the inverted struts in '04-05.

As an indicator, these are the cars with the later type dashboard I believe. From what I've read, a lot of people say that the WRX's can't be sorted.

2)
It pays to buy some new nuts and bolts before you start. I had to dremel off the lower strut bolt on one of my struts and it turns out that these have a thread pitch of 1.25mm - the ones in B&Q may look the right size but they will not thread on! Not something you want to discover on a Sunday afternoon...

I'd get new nuts/washers for the bottom of the struts, a new nylock nut for the strut top and a set of nylock nuts for the 3 strut top bolts that hold the strut to the car (in the boot).

3)
Do NOT overtighten the strut top mount bolts that are in the boot of the car. These require very little torque as they WILL snap if you overload them. 14.5lb/ft I think - worth a Google on rear strut bar installs for more info in this. It's basically hand tight and no more.

4)
Just because the strut won't 'lock' to undo the lower nut does NOT mean the strut is toast. Basically you lightly have to compress the strut in order to get the inner assembly to locate in a slot/groove on the bottom of the strut housing - this locks the strut allowing the lower bolt to be removed without the entire shaft spinning. Mine did not do this - the groove was worn (the strut had never been taken apart so I can only assume it wasn't made with care in the factory!).

A few options here regarding getting the nut off - get a rubber strap wrench (these look crap but are really pretty useful) or rubber gloves to hold the shock at the top whilst you try and loosen the bolt, or drill/dremel off the lower nut (see tip 2!). I also found another neat tip to try - get a dremel or (or maybe a small hacksaw) and cut a slot in the end of the bolt. You can then hold the bolt with a fat screwdriver whilst you attack the nut with a spanner.

This is why it's not a great idea to zip these bolts off with an air tool of some sort if you can help it - there is a chance you may round off the locating hole in the strut.

Despite not locking to loosen, my strut locked fine to tighten again.

5)
I used Castrol LM Grease from Halfords. I used about half the tub (500g tub).

6)
Get some decent tools. Spanners are better than adjustable.

You will probably need decent spanners to get the big lower bolts off that hold the strut to the car. I got a combination spanner and a seperate flex head ratchet spanner from B&Q. I could not get a socket in to fit on the nut you need to loosen - you don't want to loosen via the bolt if possible.

Get a deep socket for the top strut bolt.

I drove my car onto wooden planks at the front (ramps would be ideal) and has the rear on axle stands. Get a decent jack to lift the rear by the rear diff.

7)
Tightening the Strut top bolt is pretty difficult if you don't have the right tools. I purchased a deep socket and got my work to weld a big nut to the top of it. This allows you to tighten the socket with a spanner and get an allen key through the top to hold the strut to stop it spinning. The alternative to the nut is to grind the sides of the socket flat and hold with a wrench or similar.

8)
If you have time, give the shocks a brush down and a few coats of black hammerite or similar.



If I think of anything else I'll add it here. Hope it helps a bit - it's a pretty daunting job to begin with but looking back it wasn't too bad if you are prepared and read plenty posts online!
Old 27 October 2011, 08:40 PM
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s70rjw
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Or pay £100 to a reputable Subaru specialist, 1 hr 10 later drive home with no knocking
Old 28 October 2011, 04:55 PM
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Cockney Wideboy
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Originally Posted by mmcd87
2)
It pays to buy some new nuts and bolts before you start. I had to dremel off the lower strut bolt on one of my struts and it turns out that these have a thread pitch of 1.25mm - the ones in B&Q may look the right size but they will not thread on! Not something you want to discover on a Sunday afternoon...

I'd get new nuts/washers for the bottom of the struts, a new nylock nut for the strut top and a set of nylock nuts for the 3 strut top bolts that hold the strut to the car (in the boot).
Do you have the exact details of the nuts and bolts? part numbers or a link to a supplier?? my car is an STi but i can't see there being much difference between the bolts for the rear strut.

cheers

Chris
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