Dodgy creaking noise, front nearside wheel
30 March 2009, 03:34 PM
#1
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Dodgy creaking noise, front nearside wheel
Hi all,
Seems that, on turning right mostly (but now all the time pretty much), I get a sort of intermittant rubbing/creaking/rubbery sound, the same as noted here Noise from front near side wheel when turning - FixYa
Anyone got any ideas? Could it be a CV joint or something worse?
Getting it down to the garage on Weds but hoping I can get an idea of what I'm going to be in for money wise etc.
Car is a 2001 UK STi with about 57k on it.
Thanks in advance!
Tom
Seems that, on turning right mostly (but now all the time pretty much), I get a sort of intermittant rubbing/creaking/rubbery sound, the same as noted here Noise from front near side wheel when turning - FixYa
Anyone got any ideas? Could it be a CV joint or something worse?
Getting it down to the garage on Weds but hoping I can get an idea of what I'm going to be in for money wise etc.
Car is a 2001 UK STi with about 57k on it.
Thanks in advance!
Tom
30 March 2009, 05:16 PM
#2
I also have a 2001 STI with 59k on it, same problem. I had coilovers and solid rear drop links fitted recently and no change. Every other part is standard underneath. Will keep an eye on this one for anymore possible answers!
30 March 2009, 05:22 PM
#3
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Cheers psigeek!
I'll definitely update as I find out more but if there's anyone else out there who's experienced/experiencing this, it would be much appreciated!
30 March 2009, 06:33 PM
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I think you'll find it might the rear wishbone link. It has two rubber washers either side of the bush and they will creak as they try and move. They won't move much though because th bush is torqued up quite tight.
Mine only started after I put hardrace mounts and bushes in. It is the part that is replaced when you fit an ALK. I know it is that because it made the same noise as I was torquing it up on the bench
Mine only started after I put hardrace mounts and bushes in. It is the part that is replaced when you fit an ALK. I know it is that because it made the same noise as I was torquing it up on the bench
30 March 2009, 06:55 PM
#5
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I think you'll find it might the rear wishbone link. It has two rubber washers either side of the bush and they will creak as they try and move. They won't move much though because th bush is torqued up quite tight.
Mine only started after I put hardrace mounts and bushes in. It is the part that is replaced when you fit an ALK. I know it is that because it made the same noise as I was torquing it up on the bench
Mine only started after I put hardrace mounts and bushes in. It is the part that is replaced when you fit an ALK. I know it is that because it made the same noise as I was torquing it up on the bench
Hate driving the thing at the moment as it sounds like the wheel is gonna drop off, well, that's how others are looking at me when I drive past
Forgot to say, there's no 'play' in the wheel when it's off the ground. Doesn't feel like I've lost power or anything from that wheel either (yet) feels normal, sounds BAAAD!
Last edited by Torquemada; 30 March 2009 at 06:57 PM.
30 March 2009, 07:19 PM
#7
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The noise started off as nothing as well, just like a dry leaf caught in the brake caliper or something but today it's sounding foofed!!
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30 March 2009, 07:35 PM
#8
That's what I thought initially or maybe even the hub but as there's no play in the wheel and it's mostly when turning the wheel to the right, I'm guessing it's something else, probably more expensive
The noise started off as nothing as well, just like a dry leaf caught in the brake caliper or something but today it's sounding foofed!!
The noise started off as nothing as well, just like a dry leaf caught in the brake caliper or something but today it's sounding foofed!!
30 March 2009, 07:37 PM
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Up in the air with the car in gear and running a dodgy wheel bearing is an easy spot !
dunx
P.S. Yes mine did go, and by the time it was noisy it had taken the hub with it !
dunx
P.S. Yes mine did go, and by the time it was noisy it had taken the hub with it !
30 March 2009, 07:38 PM
#10
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Wheel's been off and I can't really see much, then again, it helps if you actually know what you're looking at, unlike me
30 March 2009, 07:45 PM
#11
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No sign of bearing/hub probs at all though, I didn't have the same noise when I had to replace the offside hub last year and that was really worn from the previous owner
(bit annoyed about my crap judgement with buying the car with these probs to be honest, then again, you can't really tell 'til they go wrong
).'tis a mystery for now, will be interesting to see what we find on Weds
Diff has been mentioned and I do not have the money for that right now!!!
p.s. Cheers Dunx!
Last edited by Torquemada; 30 March 2009 at 07:47 PM.
30 March 2009, 08:09 PM
#13
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Sounds like it may well be a CV joint then.
I'll confirm when I know more
Thanks to Nick and everyone else who has given me pointers
Tom
30 March 2009, 08:50 PM
#14
Came across this:
Diagnosing/ Fault finding
Constant Velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.
Wear
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure
Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter.
Let me know how you get on and costs if possible! Thanks for the replies also above, might have helped mine too.
Diagnosing/ Fault finding
Constant Velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.
Wear
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure
Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter.
Let me know how you get on and costs if possible! Thanks for the replies also above, might have helped mine too.
30 March 2009, 08:56 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Came across this:
Diagnosing/ Fault finding
Constant Velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.
Wear
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure
Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter.
Let me know how you get on and costs if possible! Thanks for the replies also above, might have helped mine too.
Diagnosing/ Fault finding
Constant Velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.
Wear
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure
Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter.
Let me know how you get on and costs if possible! Thanks for the replies also above, might have helped mine too.
Was just chatting to a mate and I think I must have somehow killed it having fun in the snow
Thanks again psigeek! I will defo let you know what happens.
Tom
30 March 2009, 09:42 PM
#16
30 March 2009, 11:07 PM
#17
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Went out in it again and I've got the noise description figured now. It's like grinding rubber bands between metal as well as being a bit squeaky.
Anyway, next update on weds. Hopefully won't be
Anyway, next update on weds. Hopefully won't be
30 March 2009, 11:35 PM
#19
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If it does make that noise what am I to expect?
Cheers,
Tom
30 March 2009, 11:41 PM
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either remove the shims behind the pads,and clean and grease(alittle)the caliper fitting kit(bars and anti rattle).
but lock it round slightly bout 5-10 mph just resting on the brake then stop and keep depressing the pedal see if you can make the creaking noise you describe
but lock it round slightly bout 5-10 mph just resting on the brake then stop and keep depressing the pedal see if you can make the creaking noise you describe
30 March 2009, 11:46 PM
#21
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either remove the shims behind the pads,and clean and grease(alittle)the caliper fitting kit(bars and anti rattle).
but lock it round slightly bout 5-10 mph just resting on the brake then stop and keep depressing the pedal see if you can make the creaking noise you describe
but lock it round slightly bout 5-10 mph just resting on the brake then stop and keep depressing the pedal see if you can make the creaking noise you describe
Cheers,
Tom
30 March 2009, 11:54 PM
#22
either remove the shims behind the pads,and clean and grease(alittle)the caliper fitting kit(bars and anti rattle).
but lock it round slightly bout 5-10 mph just resting on the brake then stop and keep depressing the pedal see if you can make the creaking noise you describe
but lock it round slightly bout 5-10 mph just resting on the brake then stop and keep depressing the pedal see if you can make the creaking noise you describe
.However, I took the car to Subaru regarding this same noise (as stated above) a little while back. They replaced the cross springs on the back of the Brembo calipers at the front, siting it as a 'common issue'. Cost me a total of £80. The noise remained just as Torquemedia describes. It's bloody annoying because you know it won't happen when it gets to a garage. I really hope you find the cause.
edit: it was all greased up on mine when I took it down to Ian Godney (Godspeed Brakes).
Last edited by psigeek; 30 March 2009 at 11:57 PM.
31 March 2009, 12:05 AM
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i think the noises are just an sti thing ,i have always had that pad knock when u go forward to reverse lol somethin i live with.
but i had a wheel bearing/cv go last year and that noise is defo a clicking noise,
a couple of weeks ago i got this so called "creaking noise" everytime i done the above after checking everythin else cv/bearing/caliper bolts my last straw was to remove the shims from the back of the pad and grease/clean the cross pins and the noise went.
it almost sounds like a stone stuck in the caliper and as you press the pedal your crushing/grinding the stone type of noise if that makes sense
but i had a wheel bearing/cv go last year and that noise is defo a clicking noise,
a couple of weeks ago i got this so called "creaking noise" everytime i done the above after checking everythin else cv/bearing/caliper bolts my last straw was to remove the shims from the back of the pad and grease/clean the cross pins and the noise went.
it almost sounds like a stone stuck in the caliper and as you press the pedal your crushing/grinding the stone type of noise if that makes sense
Last edited by maydew; 31 March 2009 at 12:07 AM.
31 March 2009, 07:57 AM
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Thanks, Jon. It's kinda similar to that but the more I think about it, it really sounds like it's something up front that's spinning or connected to something that spins and whilst doing so, it makes this rubbery-creaky-spinny-not-very-well noise but mostly when the car is going in a straight line or turning right. When reversing with ful right lock it sounds like a proper grinding noise now.
Hate driving the thing at the moment as it sounds like the wheel is gonna drop off, well, that's how others are looking at me when I drive past
Forgot to say, there's no 'play' in the wheel when it's off the ground. Doesn't feel like I've lost power or anything from that wheel either (yet) feels normal, sounds BAAAD!
Hate driving the thing at the moment as it sounds like the wheel is gonna drop off, well, that's how others are looking at me when I drive past
Forgot to say, there's no 'play' in the wheel when it's off the ground. Doesn't feel like I've lost power or anything from that wheel either (yet) feels normal, sounds BAAAD!
31 March 2009, 08:25 AM
#25
^^ I hope it isn't 5 hours labour to fix. Mine does sound exactly as Torquemedia describes. The only difference being it happens when I turn full left. Quite keen to see the answer now.
31 March 2009, 01:54 PM
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03 April 2009, 06:28 PM
#27
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Well, congrats to those who advised me as to wheel bearings and hub being the source of the problem, you were right!! 
Even the mechanic thought it was gonna be a CV joint problem on hearing the noise but it's all good in there, apparently.
The hub was soooooo worn it was unbelievable and the bearings were utterly fubar'd
Well, not the cheapest fix in the world but at least it wasn't a diff!!
I find out the cost on Monday but I'm expecting somewhere between 300-500 quid FML 
Even the mechanic thought it was gonna be a CV joint problem on hearing the noise but it's all good in there, apparently.
The hub was soooooo worn it was unbelievable and the bearings were utterly fubar'd
Well, not the cheapest fix in the world but at least it wasn't a diff!!
I find out the cost on Monday but I'm expecting somewhere between 300-500 quid
FML
03 April 2009, 06:30 PM
#28
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uh oh! i had the same problem. at first i thought the shims were rubbing and and when i took it to the garage, it was a new power steering rack as well as a new hub and everything is fine now. no noises whatsoever. exactly the same as you were describing. mine was always the passenger front side. i hope this isn't the case for you as its 5 hours labour for the rack!
03 April 2009, 07:09 PM
#30
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