prwatts

Does anyone favour alignment settings other than Stock?

If so, why? What would the benefit be.

I ask because the guy at CTS Wheels & Tires said "Often the Scooby guys have their own special settings - are there any settings you want me to put in?"

I had my car done to the stock settings after fitting my BC-Coilovers. CTS Wheels & Tires were very good.

Peter

dunx

iTrader: (3)

A touch more negative camber all round should increase grip. I did a "Google" of "camber & castor", this will pull up several interesting articles !

PM me for a copy of corradoboys set-up. This was done by an ancient expert with a life-times experience in training people to set-up cars.

HTH

dunx
http://www.simpsonmotorsport.co.uk/u...nsionSetup.pdf

JB1

You can change the car radically by sorting the suspension setup. It does depend what you want to use it for, and what you have thats adjustable. Top mounts, castor, camber, ride hight, preload, toe, compression, rebound?

I have all my setup done by Chevron motorsport in Stafford.

corradoboy

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Hi Dave, you taking it easy at work then ?



dunx

corradoboy

Yup

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Dave, any idea if I can pay on Monday for a spare place ?

Oil changed, clean kecks ready, fire extiguisher checked (x2), re-map sorted, but no duct tape for the lights yet !

TIA

dunx

McWRX

Old post resurrection I know... but I am intrigued by the print out above.

I had a set of Tein Basic's fitted two weeks ago to a Bug STI after my old shocks had serious knocking and the standard settings have been applied (1.5 all round I believe)

What benefits will you see with the above?

Regards

corradoboy

On my car running AST's with Whiteline bars I had NO understeer, massive corner entry speeds and superb composure. These settings were applied to my vehicle after previously running the [alleged] Prodrive fast road set-up done by a reputable Subaru specialist. These settings blow the Prodrive ones into the weeds IMHO.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

So what are your final toe settings F&R, I can't decipher the notes

corradoboy

TBH it's all a bit gobbledygook to me. Dunx may shed some more light on it as he has tinkered with these settings for his own preference. I simply had it done and drove it without questioning what it all meant

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

The bit that is confusing me is the toe, yours seems to be measured in mm, whereas I was expecting an angle. Last time I reset my geometry I set my toe angles to 0 degrees.

davedipster

1.5 degrees all round and zero toe all round is my fav.

dipster.

chrisdicko

iTrader: (21)

I took a printout of what corradoboy posted up there, and got it set up the same!

Car drives fantastic now. It is quite close to the prodrive settings.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

I've just back after spensing 2 and a 1/2 hours at the garage. The rears are dialled in at 1.5 degrees camber and near as damn it zero toe.

The fronts where dialled in at about just under 1.5 degrees camber and again near as damn it zero toe. I actually wanted the 1.75 degrees of front camber as per Dunx, but the muppets in the garage initially tried to dial it all in using the camber bolts despite me saying that it had adjustable top mounts. Then they couldn't work the top mounts - I suspect that they had only undone 2 of the 3 bolts (2 allen bolts and one of the strut top bolts have to be loosened) and thy couldn't understand why it wouldn't move.

Thankfully the whiteline top mounts have 1/4 degree graduations on them, so I came home, undid the bolts (all three) and using a soft mallet and a piece of wood tapped the top mounts into position

I suspect if I put it back on an alignment machine it will now be spot on

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

I was recommended these settings,

Front Toe................. 1mm toe-in per side

Front Camber.............. -1.0 degrees

Rear Toe.................. 1mm toe-in per side

Rear Camber............... -1.0 degrees


I havent done them yet, as the car is booked in for Thursday morning, so does these look ok ?

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Is that -1 degree of front camber, if not it will understeer horendously, and I would aim for a slightly high amount of camber personally.

I'm not sure how much adjustment you'll have at the rear, there was none on mine which is why I fitted adjustable arms.

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

oops, edit my post.

Yes its -1 degree of front camber

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

iirc the prodrive settings are more aggresive than that, and the standard rear I believe is somewhere in the region of 1.5 degrees.

slipstream_uk

iTrader: (1)

I was recommended those settings, as the chap said the prodrive settings are very hard on the tyres.
So its a bit of compromise with those settings.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Yes, the prodrive settings will affect the inner edge with that amount of camber, and my new settings even more so, but as you say it's a compromise between tyre wear and handling

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Back again, my only problem has been tram-lining on the M62 where the inside lane is worn out, my car was eating the outside shoulders before, so a bit more off the inside won't matter.

Managed 1.75 -ve on the front of mine, and as Dave said, high sped cornering is spot on. TBH the rear's were just adjusted to maximum -ve, at around 1.25, but with 0.3 degrees of toe.

dunx

Nobbie

i've had mine setup at Wheel Alignment and Steering Geometry Specialists : Wheels in Motion.

I'm running pretty much neutral toe, and about 1 degree 8 minutes of neg camber using camber bolts all round.

I think i feel well planted!! The std joe bloggs settings seem to introduce understeer, with the exception of any DCCD gubbins!

davedipster

Having 1.5 degrees of neg camber all round will not wear tyres out as some think. The std rear camber is 1.5 neg anyway.
What does wear out tyres very quick is silly amounts of toe front or back.

dipster

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Was running 1.5 camber on my old STI and never had any major issues with tyre wear. Next scoob will me on Mega Camber.

Nobbie

Be careful as too much neg camber may make it very lively in transition from left to right, etc, and make the straight line a little floaty until you load up.

McWRX

I too use these guys for all my tyres/geo/alignment work. Tony is a very knowledgable chap

andywiddss1

iTrader: (4)

if i wanted to have my geo set to this on my classic for fast road ect what would i need i am running whiteline arb front and back and whiteline drop links

do i need caster bolts ect i rang apb motersport i he said they could drill the bolt holes out or sumthing but the guy didnt really sound like he knew what he was talking about .

any one explain it to me thanks

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Don't confuse castor with camber. Static castor is usually fixed although I can be adjusted using something like whiteline adjustable top mounts, although thios adjustment is linked to camber and they cannot be adjusted independantly.

To start with camber, the front should have camber bolts fitted already that will allow a degree of adjustment. This should give you the 1.5 degrees that CB has on his. Any more than that and you will need to either replace the bottom bolt with another camber bolt or buy adjustable top mounts. The rear should be fixed from the factory at 1.5 degrees with some tolerance in there (see below for factory setting on a newage, I don't have the classic ones). If this needs adjustment you have three options ranging from simple to plain awkward. Firstly, add camber colts, do what I have done and add adjustable lower arms, or finally and most awkward because adjustment will require removal of the rear seats, is add adjustable top mounts.

Castor, as already mentioned, is generally fixed. That said a goos anti-lift kit such as the Perrin PSRS or the Whiteline ALK will add some static castor. The benefits of this have been cover plenty of times and of the top of my head, apart from steering centring, I can't remember them all.

Toe as adjustable front and rear. The front is adjusted using the track rods and the rear is adjusted using the toe bolts on the inner fixing of the rear lateral arm.



I expect that you should be able to get quite close to the above setting without buying any additional kit. However, if you have lowered the car, you will increase camber all around and you may need to dial some out at the rear.

And for the irony - after all that I am going to click 'post quick reply'

eggy790

iTrader: (20)

is this setup for a classic or newage? or does it not make a difference?