eliminating understeer- classic?
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eliminating understeer- classic?
Ok so the classic suffers understeer when cornering, iv added springs and shocks (ohlines + whitlines)
whats the deal with anti-roll bars and anti lift kits?
prices and benefits?
guessing once alls fitted il need 4 wheel allignment too, does this include setting the camber up?
whats the deal with anti-roll bars and anti lift kits?
prices and benefits?
guessing once alls fitted il need 4 wheel allignment too, does this include setting the camber up?
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A stiffer Rear ARB (whiteline or STi takeoff part) and the ALK will both reduce understeer for you...
However if you've lowered the car it will want an alignment, you want 1-1.5 negative camber at the front, toe parallel to a fraction toe in at the front and parallel to a fraction toe out at the rear and zero thrust angle from the rear.
Simon
However if you've lowered the car it will want an alignment, you want 1-1.5 negative camber at the front, toe parallel to a fraction toe in at the front and parallel to a fraction toe out at the rear and zero thrust angle from the rear.
Simon
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Whiteline Products for Classic
Try reading this, I found it very helpfull.
Mal
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_1.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_2.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_3.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_4.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_5.pdf
Mal
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_1.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_2.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_3.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_4.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_5.pdf
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cheers rookie, so il get away with Rear anti roll bar and antil lift kit?
what rear antil roll bar do i need, an adjustable? 22mm or 24mm? will i need drop links to go with this?
terzo - cheers mate
what rear antil roll bar do i need, an adjustable? 22mm or 24mm? will i need drop links to go with this?
terzo - cheers mate
Last edited by wrighty338; 10 December 2008 at 05:29 PM.
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Rear bar keeps the rear end flat thro' corners and allows the front end to do more work on steering the car into corners. imho
Best first step is rear arb and drop-links, then ALK & front bar for even more grip.
HTH
DunxC
Best first step is rear arb and drop-links, then ALK & front bar for even more grip.
HTH
DunxC
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I'm using a 20mm STi take off bar (late 20mm), cheaper than a whiteline jobby, as a first step on a car that is not expeceted to be modded to the 'nth' degree its more than adequate, Depending on how far you think you will modify it depends on whether its worth jumping straight to a WL part.
Simon
Simon
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They do but it depends on how u approach the corner and what ur used too,
if you have come out of a good fwd car you **** urself the first few times as the front is so light, but you forget to use the rear,
You have to use all 4 wheels and the power,
I know most say fit a ALk but I think you will gain more by spending the money on Pillowball top mounts IMHO, But a rear ARB really alters the cars feel on the road.
if you have come out of a good fwd car you **** urself the first few times as the front is so light, but you forget to use the rear,
You have to use all 4 wheels and the power,
I know most say fit a ALk but I think you will gain more by spending the money on Pillowball top mounts IMHO, But a rear ARB really alters the cars feel on the road.
#15
Changing to top mounts gives so much more adjustment and therefore a greater effect in improving turn in.
I went for Noltec top mounts on mine - fantastic piece of kit.
#16
I changed the rear ARB and the handling was much much better, understeer is virually gone on -35mm springs and rear ARB. I have my new Apex coilovers sitting at home waiting to go on so i'll have lots of adjustments then!!
Dave
Dave
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understeer is not an issue if I have the dccd set to free (rear wheel drive bias) but I have encountered it when I have started setting more lock on the dccd.
As others mentioned, it depends on your driving style, I came from driving rear wheel drive cars so prefer my car to break loose a little and fitting a rear strut brace has resulted in a more controlled slide when the back wheels break loose.
It's worth spending they money and getting your geometry setup properly when you get the coilovers.
As others mentioned, it depends on your driving style, I came from driving rear wheel drive cars so prefer my car to break loose a little and fitting a rear strut brace has resulted in a more controlled slide when the back wheels break loose.
It's worth spending they money and getting your geometry setup properly when you get the coilovers.
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I fitted a 24mm rear arb as advised by cusco kid,rear droplinks, and fitting a front 22mm arb soon with alk.
The rear bar made a huuuuge difference! Much better.
If the front makes half the difference again, i'll be well impressed!
Also, tyres are very important. No good spending loads of cash on geo kit, only to have rubbish tyres. I had cheap ones fitted when i got the car, they slid all over the shop. Now with the Yoko paradas the car is much better!
Mit
The rear bar made a huuuuge difference! Much better.
If the front makes half the difference again, i'll be well impressed!
Also, tyres are very important. No good spending loads of cash on geo kit, only to have rubbish tyres. I had cheap ones fitted when i got the car, they slid all over the shop. Now with the Yoko paradas the car is much better!
Mit
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Changed the rear arb and drop links on my classic and whilst it didn't eliminate understeer it did improve turn in dramatically.
Must agree with 172sport, any car will understeer if you enter a corner too fast (even F1 cars), therefore driving technique does affect a cars balance a lot
Must agree with 172sport, any car will understeer if you enter a corner too fast (even F1 cars), therefore driving technique does affect a cars balance a lot
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