jiffthejiffmanjaffa

iTrader: (10)

Hi Guys,

I'm looking into getting a front and rear ARB from whiteline. Thing is I've been told there is a 22mm front and 20mm rear set and then theres a 24mm front and 22 rear.

Whats the difference between the two?

Also, I see there are a number of different mounts on the ends of the ARB's if I remember correctly there is something like 4 holes What setting should I use for normal fast road use?

badgerface123

i think best fast road set up maybe 22mm all round and adjust more on front

interested in what other scoobynetters think

jiffthejiffmanjaffa

iTrader: (10)

Forgive me, I meant 20mm front and 22 rear or 22mm front and 24mm rear.

Thickist on the rear I've been told.

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Stiffer bars (more mm) suit a smooth driver.

Three mounting holes allow adjustment to suit you or road/track.

A front bar will slightly reduce the effect of a rear bar IMHO, mine just corners now, no oversteer unless on track.

HTH

DunxC

cusco kid

the ideal set up is 22mm front 24mm rear and alloy d/links
the car will be set up better with the 2 bars on at the same time
with 22mm f 24 mm r the roll stiffnes will be improved greatly ,the cornering will be flatter
also poly steering rack bushes will stop rack flex ,improving feed back through the steering wheel giving you more information on what the car is doing
geo

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

is that front and rear droplinks?

bighead

iTrader: (1)

yes ...also fit the whiteline ALk kits

cusco kid

yes it is f+rear alloy type
anti lift kit afterwards ,done in stages .you dont req the geo done for arbs and d/links .you do for alk geo

dunx

iTrader: (3)

I would stick the rear on and then if you get greedy, like I did, then do the front.

IMHO

DunxC

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

rears have been done Just need to take my jap spec coilovers off
as they are nasty and change them for STI suspension then all the whiteline stuff to be put on

jiffthejiffmanjaffa

iTrader: (10)

Cheers guys, just got to hun out the cheapest deal on the F&R's and drop links.

I'll source the Anti lift kit later on.

Cheers.

dunx

iTrader: (3)

IMHO do front bar and alk together as both done at the same time will reduce the overall labour bill....

HTH

DunxC

53

iTrader: (41)

I have Whiteline 24Rear (middle setting) Whiteline 22Front (Soft setting) Front and Rear Noltec Alloy Drop Links (Very good value and part of the same Company umbrella as Whiteline), Whiteline ALK, Whiteline Subframe Lock Bolts The handling is excellent and inspires huge confidence. I recon the hard 24rear setting would be even better for the summer but for all round fun the set up I currently have on standard 1995 Sti suspension is really really good and relatively safe fun.

Whiteline Steering Rack bushes should arrive soon.

jiffthejiffmanjaffa

iTrader: (10)

I've just been offered a 24mm front bar, its cheap and brand new.

Should I go for it, or stick with the 22mm front and 24 rear idea?

dunx

iTrader: (3)

If it's cheap.... but is it too stiff ? Maybe better for track use ?

What do I know anyway....

DunxC

cusco kid

dont use the 24mm front for road use .listen to what the guys are tellin you 22mm front 24mm rear for road use then with one adjustment for track use geo

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Depends whether you like understeer, or oversteer, as a general handling trait. If you like your car as it is i.e. a bit understeery, then I'd opt for 22mm both front and rear, as you'll keep the overall handling balance proportionally the same front to rear - a la OEM geometry (i.e. understeer) - but the thicker bars will obviously reduce roll and keep the dynamic geometry/tyres better located during cornering, for higher overall grip levels. Of course, you could fit the even thicker 24mm bars at both ends for even more roll resistance.

If you wish to bring the rear into play a bit more, then leave the front ARB alone plus fit a 22mm to rear only... Or, even better, do as the others have said: 22mm F; 24mm R. This will still make the rear come into play more than OEM, but both the rear - AND front - will be stiffer for better handling and outright grip levels.

Also, get it laser aligned with 1.5deg -ve camber front and 1.0deg -ve rear. Ideally it's desirable to have 1.5 -ve at the rear too, but you'd need to get the Whiteline, or Eibach, rear-strut top camber bolts with the eccentric lug to be able to achieve this. They're £15 from Spoox Motorsport in Hinckley, Leic. (amongst others).

Thing is - and if your cash flow allows - then I'd hang on and get the rear camber bolts and ALK kit first and then get it all fitted at the same time as the ARBs, as you'd only have to pay again for realignment if you were to fit the ALK and/or bolts at a later stage anyway!

Oh and as a matter of course, make sure you do indeed have the front and rear solid metal drop links fitted too... Otherwise, if the OEM plastic/rubber ones are retained, then most of the benefits of the stiffer ARBs will be immediately lost!


TIP: Also, increase your tyre pressures by between 2-4psi to c.35-37 front; 34-36 rear. This will bring out the best in the ARBs. Remember to do this cold, with a footpump (that has an ACCURATE gauge) after leaving the car overnight... Or, if you have to drive to a garage, then only drive for about a mile (or the air inside the tyres will get hot and expand too much). If this should be the case, then I'd go for a bit of a hoon to make sure the tyres get properly hot, then put in c.40/41psi (you need c.4psi extra to compensate)... Check again the next morning that the tyres are actually at a true c.35-37psi...

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

i have 24 24 on my 06 wrx fitted at the same time as alk and geo by RCM and it drives so well very balanced. dont no what settings they put on but they are the pros so just went with what they told me