Dark

iTrader: (1)

Looking at the AST suspension website but can't figure out the differences between the Sportline1 and Sportline2 packages (except price of course!).

Can anyone explain the difference and confirm what spring rates, ride height and alignment settings I should consider for fast road & the odd trackday.

Car is a MY02 Impreza STI with Whiteline rear ARB & droplinks.

Is there anything else I should consider having fitted at the same time ?

Cheers, Mark

911

Your best bet is to call Curtis on Powerstation's tel number. He has a direct line and is very customer friendly.
I have some detailed experience of both systems on the road and track.

The simple (cheapest) option can be very effective and easy to set-up with minimum experience. You could try spring rates of 50/40 front/rear.

You would be wise to have some adjustable top mounts fitted to the front units and camber bolts to the rear units to allow optimum alignment.

The far more expensive system has 3 independent adjustments for damping over the simpler single adjustment.

This takes some time to get set right. Same springs etc but they are great for serious track driving, but a bit OTT for road only. Look sexy and are very good when sorted.

Hope this helps, but call Curtis also.

As to alignment, this is all down to your chosen application/use, and is where Curtis is ace.

Tell him '911' sent you!

Dark

iTrader: (1)

Thanks !

I think you're referring to the competition units which I agree are OTT for my need. However the website shows a Sportline 2 package which is few hundred quid more than the standard units.

AST Suspension

Is it worth looking at anti lift kits in addition to the adjustable top mounts and camber bolts?

Mark

911

IMHO:
If you have the top adj mounts the ALK is not needed as you can get a whole lot of caster dialled in without them.

VJ_STi

iTrader: (1)

I asked the same question the other day and was told, by Curtis, if you have the ALK then fit it is worth fitting as you can't have to much castor. So as I have the ALK already it's going on mine with the adj top mounts. Roll on the 19th October.

HTH

911

Ah!
You didn't say you had the ALK already.
I have the AKL and the AST top mounts for max caster simply because the ALK was on the car when the first set of AST's went on.

Pity you are not having them fitted tomorrow as we have an AST-only test day on a private sprint track with Curtis coming to set up customer's cars on the 9th.

Good luck with it all!

VJ_STi

iTrader: (1)

Graham

I'm not sure he has got the ALK kit he's asking the question if its worth it.

911

Yes, you are right.

If you do not already have it then with top mounts you can still get a lot more caster, but the ALK will add a little more. Not sure though that the little extra would be worth having.

ricardo

The diference between the Sportline I and II is that the II has a much larger diameter shaft, and is an inverted strut. This has benefits for unsprung weight, but has the disadvantage of having much more stiction.

I had the II's for a while, but in my application on a Forester it became apparent that the I's were a much better bet (due to stiction and knocking problems), so Powerstation swapped them. I am extremely pleased with the I's.

Dark

iTrader: (1)

Thanks all.

No, I don't have the ALK, I was trying to see if it was worth having fitted at the same time. From what people have said it might be better to get the top mounts fitted from day one and leave the ALK until another time. At least then I'll get to appreciate the difference from the AST's alone.

What about spring rates ? Some people seem to suggest 50/40 and other have suggested 50/30 for fast road with the odd trackday. Any thoughts ?

Does the setting of the rear ARB have any impact upon the damper settings? ie: if the arb is set to it's stiffest do you need to back off the dampers to make them softer to achieve a comparable ride?

Thanks, Mark

911

I find that 50/40 is great on road and track.
The roll bar settings will have some bearing on the damper rate, but you are always seeking a compromise setting.

I find it is when the car has to change direction fast (cornering in tight curves) that the weight shift and roll that comes with it is where the damper rate matters.

You simply have to experiment.

Many set the damping 2 clicks (of the 10 available) harder for track unless wet when road damping on track works well.