Rusty.

I'm not sure what comprises a "top mount" as the front struts seem to have a metal cup and then a rubber mount with three threaded pins....so can someone confirm what's missing please?



I've found a breakers who can sort me some top mounts but I don't want a nasty surprise when I find out I need some other bit ....They are the rears

Cheers

911

There are some top mounts for sale in General Sale section from a good guy! (not me i should add...)
Graham

Rusty.

They all seem to be classic

I need MY01-MY02 Bugeye WRX (or STi as they are the same part?)

So it's definately just one piece (the top mount) that's missing then?

911

The classics are one piece, slide on and bult-up tight.
Graham

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/PICT0288.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/PICT0289.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/PICT0286.jpg

Classic std top mounts.

Classic aftermarket top mounts:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/PICT0031.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/PICT0030.jpg

The metal 'cup' is the spring retainer/spring seat. The rubber seat goes on 1st then the metal cup followed by your top mount/self locking nut. The top mounts are 1 piece as Graham says. (classic & newage)

Rusty.

Cheers Doug - pictures speak a thousand words

As i've got std fronts, I'm going to get a set of standard rears for my Newage but for reference, are aftermarket ones worth considering?

I assume they allow for refining stuff like camber which I don't understand

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Erm..adjustable rear mounts i'm not too sure on. You do get them but not sure who does them. Noltec/hks etc maybe. Think you can get camber bolts for the rear which would work out a good bit cheaper, depending on how much you can get std ones for.

Camber is basically the angle of the wheel horizontally. You get 2 types of camber.

1. Positive.

In laymans terms, this is when the top of the wheel is angled away from the car and the bottom of the wheel is angled towards the car.

....\[..]/....

2. Negative.

This is the opposite of positive. The top of the wheel is angled towards the car and the bottom of the wheel is angled away from the car.

..../[..]\....

The advantage of negative camber is when the car is cornering the tyre will have a larger surface contact area with the road. If you imagine your wheels set like the 2 diagrams and tilt it over like the car in a corner you should get my drift. Although you should expect slightly increased tyre wear on the inside as most of the time the wheels will be straight.

My heads in a bit of a pickle at the moment so maybe Graham could explain further.....and advise on the rear setup.

Rusty.

That's makes sense...unlike me wanting adjustable rears

What I meant was adjustable top mounts in general.....I think

Once I've got them fitted, I just let them settle for a couple of hundred miles then get them laser aligned - do I need any special settings or just whatever the mechanic wants...

Unfortunately, there will be no way I can go to Powerstation (£none)

Oh, final question....If I get the alignment sorted, do I have to get it re-done if I buy an uprated/adjustable ARB?

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

You'll need to get the alignment done as soon as you can. i.e. 1st trip out after fitting.

A local specialist should be able to do it. You can always ask the guys at P.S for advice on settings...

ARB? Dont think it would affect alignment. Its just a stiffer/thicker bar with the same dimensions. Best ask the experts.

911

I am no expert, but the adjustable rear top mounts for a road car are not worth it.
Ajustable fronts are, BUT, if you are not competing/going REALLY fast then I wouldn't bother.

Spend your budget on:

Good condition struts, preferably Sti item with the top mounts included like Doug's struts above. These are very good on the road.
Add camber bolts (about £40 for 4) in each corner.

Add an anti lift kit to the front from Whiteline. Seen some second hand recently.

Get the car expertly aligned ie Powerstation in the Midlands, but there are others too scattered about.

Later or now add the Whiteline anti roll bar to the rear. Again, some appearing second hand now.

With this lot, the car will be great.
Suspension settings can be found on www.whiteline.com.au

Worst web site you will ever fight, but info is there! You just have to earn it!

Graham.

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Dont know about that, i cant even get past the 1st page on the LP site...

Rusty, if youre getting whiteline bits, give Dave Featherstone a call on 01978 663042 and say youre a snet member and would like to get bits as part of the ongoing group buy. A nice 15% discount...

911

Mark has promised a web site for 4 years...

Rusty.

Thanks Both.

A friend has recommended an alignment shop in Newbury which is about 12 miles away. The units are STi dampers which were removed when the previous owner upgraded to AST's (not becuse of unit failure) and I have the matching prodrive springs which should be awesome compared to my std WRX setup which has done 80k miles.

I've heard so much negative stuff about the ALK I don't think I'll go there.

I've got whiteline rear droplinks on already but a new ARB is out of the question...will keep em peeled for a used one

Cheers

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Never heard anything but good about the ALK... Was recommended that the ALK was one of the best mods you can do.....

Rear 22mm adj. whiteline arb £74.60+vat for snetters.

Rusty.

I read on another forum, from someone regarded as knowing their stuff, that even Whiteline have admited that the ALK increaes lift, rather than reduces it....

Right now, I want to reduce sideways (cornering) roll as lift and dive under breaking/acceleration is not so important to me

jgevers

If you work your way through this, you will have a better understanding of what the ALK does.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...WL%20ALK_b.pdf

Cheers

911

I'm sticking to #10.
ALK are good, maybe the wrong description though for them, but they will help the car.
Graham