EddScott

Taking the plunge and making a few suspension mods.

I'm going to get solid drop links and a rear ARB to start but don't know which to get.

I'm assuming a 22mm adjustable is the one to go for but do I really need it adjustable and do I really want a 24 over a 22?

Whats it all about then?

Cheers in advance

deanwoodward

im just about to order the bits for this also i thought it was 22 i wanted my96 classic

corradoboy

Most people seem to fit the 22mm adjustable and have it on the middle setting, then never adjust it I lasted about a week before trying the stiffer setting and have never switched it back. No point. In retrospect, 24mm bar would probably have been ideal for me, with no adjustment. I am considering the front bar now, but will probably get an adjustable one just in case it is too skittish when at its stiffest. I suppose the adjustability opens up options, but I may end up with too many options with 3 positions on the front and rear bars and 12 positions on the AST's

911

imho:

Stock front bar + 22mm rear in middle = happiness
As above but hard hole on the rear = personal taste (no problem)

22mm front + 24mm middle/soft hole = happiness
As above but hard hole on the rear = personal taste (brave man)

Experiment and you will find the sweet spot.

Graham

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

Ah but did you know that a 3 hole ARB actually has 5 possible settings..?

No..?, nor did I..! According to whiteline changing one hole on one side = 1 setting, therefore giving you 5 settings of stiffness..!

To clarify, both sides don't need to be on same hole ie; 'outer' hole and the other side on the middle hole. Or you can go; outer/outer, outer/middle, middle/middle, middle/inner, inner/inner..! iirc..

360ste

iTrader: (1)

Got the adjustable front ARB it only has TWO settings. So a couple less combinations.

911

I don't think i'm sensitive enough to contemplate/differentiate between 5 settings to be honest.
Graham

cmpequeno

graham, what do you mean with this? what happens if it's in the harder hole?

corradoboy

It is usual when the rear gets too stiff that the car will become prone to oversteer. I have found that since moving to the stiffer setting that I can no longer provoke oversteer, whereas I used to enjoy drifting the back end on some of the twistier routes I enjoy. The car is phenomenally fast with the AST's, Whiteline bits and a spanking geometry set-up, but some of the fun has gone.

cmpequeno

so now you have oversteer all the time? or the car is "glued" to the ground?

corradoboy

Glued !

cmpequeno

ok thanks, sorry for my previous question but I didn't understand the meaning of the phrase...

I'm thinking in buying 22mm front arb, 24mm adjustable arb, black ALK ( I think it's harder than the yellow? ) and the 2 polybushes from set 1...
I think I'll try the stiffer hole? or should I start in the middle hole?

corradoboy

It's only a 5 minute job to swap, so start on the middle then try the harder. I know I prefer the harder on my 22mm rear bar. Haven't done the front yet as a guy I know who does lots of track work said it would reintroduce understeer and make the set-up skittish. I'm gonna drive my mates Type 20 to confirm this. Not sure what the difference between the 2 ALK's is, as I always thought they were just a series of shims and spacers to reposition various steering and suspension components to allow a more extreme set-up

911

Basic rule:
Soft front and stiff rear will help kill understeer.
Too stiff in the rear and instability is introduced which could be called oversteer.

A chassis that has the tendancy to over/under steer will entertain, a neutral one will be the quicker car as control is easy in comparison but the drama will be missing, hence true comment in #9 above by Corradoboy.
Depends if you want entertainment or to get from A to B the quickest way.

Graham