Hi needed some advice on noltec top mount settings please . I have just fitted mine while the car is off the road, and need to no the best way to set these up until i can get the car to powerstation wich probably wont be for a while.

Thanks For any help

Neil

 

Looking at mine (sat in the garage) just leave them as they are. Seem to be set the same as the standard ones (i.e. the strut sits centrally in the top mount).

But then this assumes that by fitting them you haven't disturbed the geometry settings anyway, in which case get it aligned before you ruin a set of tyres.

 

With Noltec you can change castor!
If you get more castor, you dont need so much negative camber. As you turn the wheel castor will add chamber so if car goes stright forward there is no so much pressure at tire rim and there is not so much wear. Big negative chamber help change direction but big downside is wear. Iam running -1,25°/ 20min(each) toe out and S03 can last up to 10 000km.
With more caster is same effect availabe with smaller camber.

So max castor, 0mm toe in, up to -1°camber at front and -0,5° at rear and -10min for each wheel at rear could be like good LSD for classic shape...

 

Neil:
Please go and look/read my new thread.
You will see a pic of the correct position as just set on my car today at Powerstation.
If you need a better pic then I can post one tomorrow morning on this thread.
Exactly as Erik says; you can get about 5 degs caster (about 2 x the stock Impreza setting = less understeer.)

Graham.

 

Thanks for that, interesteing about the castor points.

 

Graham looking at your picture it seems the setting is maxed out? Cambor and castor. I have the clubsport with i think alow another 10mm will this be ok with the same. And not have adverse affects.

Thanks
Neil

 

Pleanty of caster is a good thing, and dials-in a lot of negative camber the more the wheels are turned into a given bend. This tends to irradicate the understeer .
The tops are maxed-out, I have 5 degrees caster as set by PowerStation on friday, and the neg camber (2.4 degs) was dialed-in by the stock eccentric camber bolts, so things were bought back to a sensible level. Maxing the tops AND the bolts would result in abot 3.5 degs negative, far too much.
Too much static negative is a bad thing as traction/braking are adversley affected.

This is why many are now fitting these tops, the options are vast and useful.

Hope that helps.

I will post the settings in my Project thread later on.

Graham

 

Long time getting back to this one

I think my oe camber bolts on the front are maxed out, so setting the noltecs close to max would be to far. I think we got 1.2 degree on the oe bolts, so maby 3mm of camber on the topmounts is a good place to start?

Also the backs i have set these to max maby to much?
bearing in mind the car will probably be doing 100o miles before i get it to powerstation as it needs to be run in.....

Cheers
Neil

 

Just one other thought, if you add more camber the gap between the top of the arch and tyre is more. So you can get away with slightly wider tyers?

Neil

 

You might...
Wider tyres might rub somewhere from full lock to full lock and max droop to max compression of the strut!
Not sure if bigger and bigger tyres work on a Scooby.
205's in a sticky compound sure do though

My STi v3 has max caster/neg camber and the stock front camber bolts bought it all back nicely without issue. Get to Powerstation.
Graham.

 

Thought I had a pic somewhere:
These are my 17'' Kumhos after 6000 miles @ 2.5 deg negative.



These are the front ones.

Graham.

 

Nice pic I make from mine S03PP, 14clicks on LEDA with Leda track geometry after cca 3-3500mls tomorrow...