understeer
14 March 2005, 06:06 PM
#1
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understeer
as title what do i need to help reduce the understeer on a my99 uk wagon already done the suspension also will a rear strut brace help to stiffen the "rear" end as i've been told the wagons suffer from a lack of stiffness back there
14 March 2005, 07:21 PM
#3
If you realy want to kill understeer you will need to do some involved mods:
All this is real experience with my Sti v3, proven on track and road:
Fit front and rear Whiteline anti roll bars.
Solid rear and front drop links
Camber bolts in all corners
MRT top front mounts
Find a GOOD specialist to align the lot, ie Roger Clark, TSL, Power Station etc.
Go to the www.whiteline.com.au web site and study all the options for alignment.
Get that done, but with MAX caster afforded by the top mounts
The car will be transformed if aligned correctly.
Doing this avaiods fitting the popular Anti lift Kit which is a weak half way house in my opinion.
You can go a lot further than the above, but for a road car the only other mod would be Sti suspension.
As to the rear strut brace? I would spend my $$ on the above! (instead).
Good luck,
Graham.
All this is real experience with my Sti v3, proven on track and road:
Fit front and rear Whiteline anti roll bars.
Solid rear and front drop links
Camber bolts in all corners
MRT top front mounts
Find a GOOD specialist to align the lot, ie Roger Clark, TSL, Power Station etc.
Go to the www.whiteline.com.au web site and study all the options for alignment.
Get that done, but with MAX caster afforded by the top mounts
The car will be transformed if aligned correctly.
Doing this avaiods fitting the popular Anti lift Kit which is a weak half way house in my opinion.
You can go a lot further than the above, but for a road car the only other mod would be Sti suspension.
As to the rear strut brace? I would spend my $$ on the above! (instead).
Good luck,
Graham.
15 March 2005, 11:47 PM
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Have a look on Whiteline's site. Find the articles from Aussie car mags and spend a few hours reading.
ISTR that the rear ARB complete with droplinks and uprated mounts was the single most effective upgrade starting from standard.
When you say you've "done the suspension" what have you done?
J.
ISTR that the rear ARB complete with droplinks and uprated mounts was the single most effective upgrade starting from standard.
When you say you've "done the suspension" what have you done?
J.
16 March 2005, 07:31 AM
#7
The ALK is 'ok'.
I ran my car in the early days of hill climbing the car in competition, and it seemed to make little difference TBH.
As above, read the articles.
When I'd read the one on their Radical hill climber i went the whole distance including the radical settings.
The car was set by Ralliart in Dudley, West Midlands, and i needed to sign a disclaimer before they would do it to those specs, but, the result was a transformation.
No more understeer at racing pace, let alone tootling down the road.
Graham.
I ran my car in the early days of hill climbing the car in competition, and it seemed to make little difference TBH.
As above, read the articles.
When I'd read the one on their Radical hill climber i went the whole distance including the radical settings.
The car was set by Ralliart in Dudley, West Midlands, and i needed to sign a disclaimer before they would do it to those specs, but, the result was a transformation.
No more understeer at racing pace, let alone tootling down the road.
Graham.
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20 March 2005, 06:30 PM
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I have rear brace on GT MY98. No major chage...
Only way how I can kill understeer is setting rear Ledas +2clicks over front. On snow I run car with 12/10clicks 320/225lbs due big toe out ( 20min on each wheel) and if I give not toom much gain to initiate front open diff spin car cat turn like WRC or handbrake turn. This setup is gret for ice but not so funny at snow and traffic in the city when car allways turn with doors ahead...or will not turn becouse front diff spinning the wheel and after few secconds goes power to rear axle and you get BMW M3 with TC off ...
So if you dont like undresteer get good front diff at first. May be stiffer rear diff bushing can help too.
My setup is LEDA, front Powerflex bushing, Cussco lower arm bar 4point + Sparco strut bar, solid MRT links + poly bushes at all front + rear and rear upper strut bar. Cusco adj top mounts goes next.
I run 20min toe out each wheel, 1,25° negat chamber front and 0,5 rear.
Only way how I can kill understeer is setting rear Ledas +2clicks over front. On snow I run car with 12/10clicks 320/225lbs due big toe out ( 20min on each wheel) and if I give not toom much gain to initiate front open diff spin car cat turn like WRC or handbrake turn. This setup is gret for ice but not so funny at snow and traffic in the city when car allways turn with doors ahead...or will not turn becouse front diff spinning the wheel and after few secconds goes power to rear axle and you get BMW M3 with TC off ...
So if you dont like undresteer get good front diff at first. May be stiffer rear diff bushing can help too.
My setup is LEDA, front Powerflex bushing, Cussco lower arm bar 4point + Sparco strut bar, solid MRT links + poly bushes at all front + rear and rear upper strut bar. Cusco adj top mounts goes next.
I run 20min toe out each wheel, 1,25° negat chamber front and 0,5 rear.
20 March 2005, 10:20 PM
#13
Sorry, I'm back to the added caster the top mounts give as a bolt-on cure, simple and cost effective.
Wouldn't hurt to have the bump steer mod done at the same time though.
Graham.
Wouldn't hurt to have the bump steer mod done at the same time though.
Graham.
22 March 2005, 03:18 PM
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Posted by warrenm2
dont forget to point out Graham that the MRT top mounts RAISE the ride height 10-15mm....
dont forget to point out Graham that the MRT top mounts RAISE the ride height 10-15mm....
Posted by 911
Sorry, you are correct.
Becuase i have coil-overs I keep forgetting ....
Graham
Sorry, you are correct.
Becuase i have coil-overs I keep forgetting ....
Graham
22 March 2005, 06:06 PM
#18
Yes.
I installed the AVO's and several other parts at the same time. Ralliart set the car in fine detail, but John is an expert!
I always thought the car rides too high in front (or the rear has sagged) but it does drive well.
The AVO's will drop the car far more than enough to get the ride back together, but they are a bit rustic in performance and durability, but seem to be getting quieter as time goes by(!)
I always set my cars so the trolley jack can be placed under the car at a hill climb paddock (tarmac/grass/boggy/unsafe) just purely practical.
Gets me over sleeping policemen too
this Xmas (forward planning ) the suspension will come apart for re greasing and a fresh set-up, maybe some AST's too.
Once drove a friends RA around a sprint track. It had DMS 50mm Gold struts......just so good.
Graham.
I installed the AVO's and several other parts at the same time. Ralliart set the car in fine detail, but John is an expert!
I always thought the car rides too high in front (or the rear has sagged) but it does drive well.
The AVO's will drop the car far more than enough to get the ride back together, but they are a bit rustic in performance and durability, but seem to be getting quieter as time goes by(!)
I always set my cars so the trolley jack can be placed under the car at a hill climb paddock (tarmac/grass/boggy/unsafe) just purely practical.
Gets me over sleeping policemen too
this Xmas (forward planning
) the suspension will come apart for re greasing and a fresh set-up, maybe some AST's too.Once drove a friends RA around a sprint track. It had DMS 50mm Gold struts......just so good.
Graham.
22 March 2005, 07:06 PM
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Did the rear droplinks 1st on mine ( some powerflex ones ) and that made a noticeable difference.
Then fitted a 22mm adj ARB on mid setting. Even more difference and much less understeer and turn in felt better.
Have recently been to Powerstation for the ALK, bumpsteer and 4 wheel alignment. Last changes have helped the cornering and the bumpsteer really removes the need to correct the steering continually under heavy braking.
Then fitted a 22mm adj ARB on mid setting. Even more difference and much less understeer and turn in felt better.
Have recently been to Powerstation for the ALK, bumpsteer and 4 wheel alignment. Last changes have helped the cornering and the bumpsteer really removes the need to correct the steering continually under heavy braking.
23 March 2005, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 911
Yes.
I installed the AVO's and several other parts at the same time. Ralliart set the car in fine detail, but John is an expert!
I always thought the car rides too high in front (or the rear has sagged) but it does drive well.
The AVO's will drop the car far more than enough to get the ride back together, but they are a bit rustic in performance and durability, but seem to be getting quieter as time goes by(!)
I always set my cars so the trolley jack can be placed under the car at a hill climb paddock (tarmac/grass/boggy/unsafe) just purely practical.
Gets me over sleeping policemen too
this Xmas (forward planning ) the suspension will come apart for re greasing and a fresh set-up, maybe some AST's too.
Once drove a friends RA around a sprint track. It had DMS 50mm Gold struts......just so good.
Graham.
I installed the AVO's and several other parts at the same time. Ralliart set the car in fine detail, but John is an expert!
I always thought the car rides too high in front (or the rear has sagged) but it does drive well.
The AVO's will drop the car far more than enough to get the ride back together, but they are a bit rustic in performance and durability, but seem to be getting quieter as time goes by(!)
I always set my cars so the trolley jack can be placed under the car at a hill climb paddock (tarmac/grass/boggy/unsafe) just purely practical.
Gets me over sleeping policemen too
this Xmas (forward planning
) the suspension will come apart for re greasing and a fresh set-up, maybe some AST's too.Once drove a friends RA around a sprint track. It had DMS 50mm Gold struts......just so good.
Graham.
23 March 2005, 07:47 PM
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I haven't read all the thread, i had the same problem for a while.
I got the steering geometry set on my car for fast road driving at KT Greens in Leeds(Scooby Dealer) although it's available all over the place.
It was £85 and it totally eliminated it all mate.
It is incredible now.
I got the steering geometry set on my car for fast road driving at KT Greens in Leeds(Scooby Dealer) although it's available all over the place.
It was £85 and it totally eliminated it all mate.
It is incredible now.
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