ScoobyDoobyDom

Please can someone post the correct complete geometry set-up (inc camber..) for my MY00 turbo.

Tried looking on here but having a job finding them.

Ta.

Dom.

andy97

iTrader: (1)

Hi Take it to powerstation, they will do a fantastic job on geometry and the bumpsteer mod aswell

Andy

ScoobyDoobyDom

Where is Powerstation and how much will they charge for this?

grahamfrary

http://www.sidc.co.uk/faq.htm#4.5. Micheldever Tyres are nearer to you - down the M3 just passed Basingstoke. Micheldever Station. £70 I think and you have to book.

GaryCat

Feltham Tyres on Green Man lane by Heathrow (A312) are even nearer and they all the full laser alighment stuff and come highly recommended.

RRH

Prodrive settings:
Front camber -1.3/4 toe 1.0
Rear camber -1.1 toe 1.0

Whiteline suggest:
Front camber -1.5 toe 0.0
Rear camber -1.25 toe 1.0 (rear camber bolts?)

ScoobyDoobyDom

Any opinions?

RRH

I use the whiteline settings

**Please note that these settings are for classics, and are not for MY01+**

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Interested to know if you find the car nervous or "tail happy" with the Whiteline settings?

RRH

I tend to use them when the roads are dry and revert to prodrive settings during the wetter months.

To be honest the whiteline settings can make the RA quite 'lively' and tends to emphasise the rear drive bias.

I have run the whiteline settings at Croft in the wet and I wouldn't be too keen to try it again, it was quite edgey on the limit.

Just out of interest what settings do you run Harvey?

ozzy

How can you tell in the UK? In Scotland I'd need to make the decision every morning and later the same day

Are those the Whiteline "Street" settings?

Personally, I didn't like the Prodrive settings. Went from the -1.0 toe to 0.0 on the front. Mine are about the same as the Whiteline, but only with the max negative camber available on the classic without camber bolts.

I certainly don't find my car (MY99 RB5) tail happy.

I would guess the handling will depend on the suspension setup, tyres and what diffs are on the car with any geometry settings.

Stefan

Andy Tang

iTrader: (3)

I had the 'Prodrive' settings but found the car a little 'twitchy' on the motorways.

I ended up going for :

Front camber - 0.7 (negative camber) toe 1.0

Rear tow is variable due to the tolerances when the car is built. Some cars can achieve more negative camber than others, even if they are the same MY.

D1CCY

Suggested settings can depend on how you use the car. I went to TSL and they set my STi8 for normal mixed motoring (work, A roads, bit of fun, etc) as follows:

Front Camber 1 deg 15 min neg equal both sides. This is about max on the camber bolts. If you want to go mad (track days etc.) then you could do with adjustable top mounts to get to 1 deg 45 min.

Front toe 0.8 mm toe in.

Rear toe 0.2 mm toe in

Rear camber, strictly not adjustable but TSL say that there is some play in the bolts so they can manage 1 deg 30 min equal by leaning on things while they do the bolts up.

Diccy.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Thanks for the info. I understand from John F. that the car can bite with rear toe out. I know that rear toe out is used in rally cars to make them unstable/tail happy. I was very surprised when I became aware of the Whiteline rear toe out recommendation only a few weeks ago. At first I was going to try them but as a result of what I found out I have given up that idea.
I am looking for better settings than I already have.(Just like you can never have enough power. ) I have been experimenting and have had the use of laser track bars and a spirit level camber guage. I am not totally convinced as to their accuracy so I now plan to get the bump steer mod and laser alignment with the following:
Front Camber: Set max neg camber. Expected to be 1 deg 30 - 1 deg 45
Front Toe In : 3-4mm total. ie 1.5 - 2mm per side.
Rear Camber : About 15-20 mins less than the front.
Rear Toe In : 2-2.5 mm Total.

BTW I have fitted camber bolts.
I am intereted to hear what others think and also from experts like Power Station.

RRH

Happy with the power for now, just forever searching for the perfect delivery, which is unfortunately like the holy bloody grail will get there in the end hopefully.

In any case Harvey its you who set me off on this daft handling quest, after trying to follow you through Sunny In and ending up completely missing Sunny Out (killed a few of them damn cones too)

grahamfrary

Correct me if I am wrong, but I can't believe the Whiteline figures mean 1mm toe OUT? And surely all the figures are overall and not per wheel, ie you don't double them up.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

RRH : Glad you were impressed. One of my driving mentors comments on my rock ape style and here was me thinking I was smooth.
Whiteline give settings as follows: All toe settings are per side.
.........................Factory.................. ..Touring....................Sport/Track.
Toe (F)................0 +/-3.......................0......................... ........0
Toe (R)................0 +/-3...................1mmout/side.............1-2mm out/side
Camber (F)...........0..............................-1 deg...................-1.5
Camber (R)...........-45mins.....................-45mins..................-1 to -1.25

Seems a lot of rear toe out?

RRH

Harvey- I wasn't impressed, I was feckin' terrified..... but smiling

I think the underlying moral to this story is that no matter how much you may think you like oversteer be very careful when playing with rear caster on a road car. If you must fiddle with it away from the zero, then do so in small increments.

We tend to use it on track to promote particular handling whilst right on the very limit- it takes a hell of a lot of testing to get the settings right, and to your liking, and track versus road setups are quite different.

A setting that makes an 'on the edge' car respond on a smooth track can be quite dangerous on a bumpy damp leaf littered road.

My last track car RA was set up for track only. I dreaded driving it to / from as it was a total nightmare, with snap oversteer everytime you hit a bump on a corner. Very tiring to drive, and quite dangerous for anyone who wasn't used to it and 110% focussed.

Likewise the clio cup race car- I made it road legal, but only drove it once on the road. On track it felt ace and planted, on the road it was really scary.

To be honest I really do question the sanity of anyone who wants to get a car with the grip levels of an Impreza sideways on a public road- those levels of grip tend to raise the limits so far that by the time you've found them you're in real trouble.

The above sermon is my personal opinion- everyone has one, everyone is entitled to one, although some are wrong- but please don't think i'm trying to teach anyone to suck eggs as it were.

/soapbox mode off/

ps. keep rears parallel on MY01+, and don't bother with strut braces on MY03+- tried them- they're stiff enough, and you're just adding weight.

ScoobyDoobyDom

Well........

Lots of information then!!!

BASICALLY... my front tyres are scrubbing on the outer edges, evenly, on both sides. I put on 4 new Bridgestone RE010 approx 3 months ago, roughly 2500/3000 miles ago - (probably not my wisest choice of shoes). The rears are perfect still, front tread is excellent still apart from the outers feathering quite noticeably! Is there a simple geometry adjustment for this or is it a case of "they all do that, sir"?

I do drive fairly enthusiastically at times but mostly I drive 6 miles each way to work and back in traffic every day!

Shall I just rotate the wheels as a temporary measure or can anyone shed some light here?

Ta.

RRH

a tyre pressure change may help, what pressure are you using?

to be honest most of them do that on factory settings, although some do the insides instead.

a 4 wheel alignment check never hurts- my local tyre place does a full laser setup for £35.

andy97

iTrader: (1)

Hi

Do you suffer from understeer- if so take it to Powerstation in Cheltenham

see Powerstation link

prana

after my last skidpan day, I am now running 36psi front and 39psi cold rear. Makes it a lot more controllable and almost neutral.

For the pan, I set -3 camber to the front and 0 rear. Caster is stock..... now on street, its set to -2 camber fronts, more friendy on tyres and still handles very well..... and good to know I can still brake hard if required.

womblerulz

are the toe 's in or out??????

silent running

Can't comment on Prodrive settings, because seeing as I run plenty of Whiteline kit, I use Whiteline settings. Plus I have made the effort to read all their blurb on why they recommend these settings, which helps to put it all in context rather than just taking someone else's word for it.

In brief, the street setting is roughly 1 degree negative camber all round, front wheels straight and rear wheels 1mm toe out per side. The track setting is more of the same - a little more toe out on the rear and more camber all round. I've found the rear toe out gives me exactly the feel I want on the road and makes the rear a little more willing to get involved.