Geometry
The ARB, drop links and front strut brace won't alter your existing geo. Not sure about the anti-lift kit though.
What settings are you running just now? it may be that some slightly different geo settings would help from your new suspension mods rather than you disturbing anything whilst you fit them.
Stefan
What settings are you running just now? it may be that some slightly different geo settings would help from your new suspension mods rather than you disturbing anything whilst you fit them.
Stefan
If you fit the ALK then you will need to do geo it's as simple as that. When you have the
ALK fitted the kit replaces the lower wishbone bushes neccessitating the geo to be re done as the suspension on the front will have been disturbed. Even if you don't go for the ALK with the outher suspension mods you are planning it would be advisable to still do the geo as there is no point doing half a job. IMHO
Regards
John
ALK fitted the kit replaces the lower wishbone bushes neccessitating the geo to be re done as the suspension on the front will have been disturbed. Even if you don't go for the ALK with the outher suspension mods you are planning it would be advisable to still do the geo as there is no point doing half a job. IMHO
Regards
John
When I watched him changing my settings at CLCM, it was the control arm bolts that he loosened to adjust the wheels. The ARB, drop links and strut brace won't affect this.
Lifted from the MRT site:-
Not sure what to make of that. Seems it will alter your alignment anyway. Whether this has a positive effect on your existing settings and works with them or is negative and undos some of the alignment you already have dialled into the car - don't know to be honest.
Stefan
Lifted from the MRT site:-
The anti-lift kit changes the location and geometry of the control arm pick-up point to remove the "lift" resulting from the original geometry. The new mount also relocates the arm in another plane to add 0.5 deg. static positive castor. The new mount also features a performance polyurethane bush, which replaces the original high compliance rubber type.This serves to maintain a closer link between static and dynamic alignment settings through reduced compliance and distortion under load. The 0.5 deg. additional static positive castor coupled with the low compliance bush means over 1.0 deg. more positive dynamic castor.
Stefan
John (DBY) is correct is some respects, but you have to remember that alignment will work with suspension mods. Some suspension changes will help the car maintain alignment under suspension loading and not always against. So changing some components won't necessarily break what you have already.
If you're running max negative camber, fitting droplinks and a stiffer ARB won't alter the existing camber. You may find that the old camber settings just don't work with a stiffer ARB/drop links as extra compliance with the old components has been removed.
Personally, I'd rather see how individual settings effect the handling. I'm not a big power hungry driver, I like the car to handle well and changing a lot in one big go doesn't sit too well in my head.
I would suggest you change the front brace first and see if you notice any change. Then fit the ARB and drop links and see how the car feels with those. You should feel the rear ARB more than the drop links/strut brace.
Then fit the ALK and see what that gives you. Then take the car to CLCM and have the geo checked (and see what this has done to your previous settings) and then adjust from there.
I read that the Prodrive settings with the 1mm toe-in would reduce understeer, so I went to CLCM expecting this to be setup. When I got there, I actually found it had it set already. The bloke (sorry don't know his name), recommended running 0mm toe, but more camber (especially rear).
This has worked for me and my car and it may not work for you or anyone else. Handling's a very personal thing IMHO although the basic setup is a good place to start for anyone.
I can scan in my settings if you want to compare.
Stefan
If you're running max negative camber, fitting droplinks and a stiffer ARB won't alter the existing camber. You may find that the old camber settings just don't work with a stiffer ARB/drop links as extra compliance with the old components has been removed.
Personally, I'd rather see how individual settings effect the handling. I'm not a big power hungry driver, I like the car to handle well and changing a lot in one big go doesn't sit too well in my head.
I would suggest you change the front brace first and see if you notice any change. Then fit the ARB and drop links and see how the car feels with those. You should feel the rear ARB more than the drop links/strut brace.
Then fit the ALK and see what that gives you. Then take the car to CLCM and have the geo checked (and see what this has done to your previous settings) and then adjust from there.
I read that the Prodrive settings with the 1mm toe-in would reduce understeer, so I went to CLCM expecting this to be setup. When I got there, I actually found it had it set already. The bloke (sorry don't know his name), recommended running 0mm toe, but more camber (especially rear).
This has worked for me and my car and it may not work for you or anyone else. Handling's a very personal thing IMHO although the basic setup is a good place to start for anyone.
I can scan in my settings if you want to compare.
Stefan
Having had all the above mods done to my car WRX03 at powerstation to get the full potential from the ALK kit, ie greater increases in caster angles ect for £60 quid geo check seems small beer to me bearing in mind what you are trying to achieve.
Regards
John
Regards
John
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