Whiteline solid rear drop links
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Spent an hour or so this evening fitting my Whiteline solid rear drop links to my RB5. Much easier than I anticipated with only one rusty nut proving a bit awkward, but nothing Mr WD40 didn't solve
First thing you need to do is raise the car to get access to the rear suspension. You need to raise the wheels along with the chassis, otherwise the suspension arms will drop with the wheels and although you'll get the drop links undone, you'll not get them back on. A proper garage vehicle ramp or pit would be ideal, but some simple wheel ramps are fine.
Next, use a 14mm spanner & socket wrench to undo the nut & bolt holding the drop link in-place. My nearside drop link came off pretty easily, but the offside top nut was seized. I simply sprayed on some WD40 and left it to soak while I got on with the other side. You may want to spray these and leave them for 30mins before starting the job.
Once the old drop link is off, cover the poly bushes of the new solid drop links with the white grease as supplied in the kit.
Next, just simply bolt the new drop link back in-place of the old one. You need a 16mm spanner and socket wrench to put the new bolts/nuts on. I found it easier to put the bottom bolt in first, as the Anti-Roll Bar that connects to the top bolt is easier to move around and align with the drop link. The Top bolt uses the large washer (outside, towards wheel) and the smaller washers on the inside top and on both inside/outside on the bottom bolt. The nuts go on the inside for both.
Don't tighten the nuts fully until you've done the opposite side. Give everything a quick check over to make sure everything's all aligned properly, then simply tighten all the nuts.
Not had a chance to drive the car yet (spending Saturday night babysitting)
Tomorrow's project is to do the fronts
Stefan
[Edited by ozzy - 3/29/2003 10:23:56 PM]
First thing you need to do is raise the car to get access to the rear suspension. You need to raise the wheels along with the chassis, otherwise the suspension arms will drop with the wheels and although you'll get the drop links undone, you'll not get them back on. A proper garage vehicle ramp or pit would be ideal, but some simple wheel ramps are fine.
Next, use a 14mm spanner & socket wrench to undo the nut & bolt holding the drop link in-place. My nearside drop link came off pretty easily, but the offside top nut was seized. I simply sprayed on some WD40 and left it to soak while I got on with the other side. You may want to spray these and leave them for 30mins before starting the job.
Once the old drop link is off, cover the poly bushes of the new solid drop links with the white grease as supplied in the kit.
Next, just simply bolt the new drop link back in-place of the old one. You need a 16mm spanner and socket wrench to put the new bolts/nuts on. I found it easier to put the bottom bolt in first, as the Anti-Roll Bar that connects to the top bolt is easier to move around and align with the drop link. The Top bolt uses the large washer (outside, towards wheel) and the smaller washers on the inside top and on both inside/outside on the bottom bolt. The nuts go on the inside for both.
Don't tighten the nuts fully until you've done the opposite side. Give everything a quick check over to make sure everything's all aligned properly, then simply tighten all the nuts.
Not had a chance to drive the car yet (spending Saturday night babysitting)
Tomorrow's project is to do the fronts
Stefan
[Edited by ozzy - 3/29/2003 10:23:56 PM]
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Just what I did this afternoon (40 mins ) but using Powerflex ones. Also changed the ARBs to Powerflex ones (as worn).
I axle-standed the rear of the car on the sub-frame & raised via the rear-diff with a trolley-jack & had no probs with ease of fitment.
Does the Whiteline kit come with diferent/new nuts/bolts 'cos off 14mm & on 16mm?
You will enjoy the driving bit tomorrow - I went for an ickle blast & the car felt so much better round the corners
Enjoy
I axle-standed the rear of the car on the sub-frame & raised via the rear-diff with a trolley-jack & had no probs with ease of fitment.
Does the Whiteline kit come with diferent/new nuts/bolts 'cos off 14mm & on 16mm?
You will enjoy the driving bit tomorrow - I went for an ickle blast & the car felt so much better round the corners
Enjoy
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Hi Puff,
40 mins. I had my tea and watched a bit of the footy in my time hey, considering I've only fitted a strut brace and changed the backbox, I'm thought I did fine
Yeah the Whitelink kit comes with new nuts, bolts and washers.
Have you done the fronts too? I was going to do them tonight as well, but the MY99 front end is too low and I couldn't drive the car onto the ramps (didn't fancy trying some wood to narrow the angle of the ramps).
Wonder if I could jack the front up and put it on some axle stands and change them that way???
where is the best place to jack the front of the car up anyway ???
come to think of it, my trolley jack probably won't fit under the spoiler either
Stefan
[Edited by ozzy - 3/29/2003 10:54:47 PM]
40 mins. I had my tea and watched a bit of the footy in my time hey, considering I've only fitted a strut brace and changed the backbox, I'm thought I did fine
Yeah the Whitelink kit comes with new nuts, bolts and washers.
Have you done the fronts too? I was going to do them tonight as well, but the MY99 front end is too low and I couldn't drive the car onto the ramps (didn't fancy trying some wood to narrow the angle of the ramps).
Wonder if I could jack the front up and put it on some axle stands and change them that way???
where is the best place to jack the front of the car up anyway ???
come to think of it, my trolley jack probably won't fit under the spoiler either
Stefan
[Edited by ozzy - 3/29/2003 10:54:47 PM]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Scott@ScoobySpares
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
61
11 January 2021 03:08 PM
Scott@ScoobySpares
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
7
14 December 2015 08:16 AM